To help us improve Android, you can let your device send us information about how you use it and how it’s working.
If you have additional Web & App Activity turned on, this info may be stored with your account. If so, you can see and delete it in My Activity. We use this info to personalize your Google services more, and to improve our products and services for everyone.
What information is shared with Google
If you turn on usage and diagnostics, your device sends info to Google about what’s working and not working. For example, your device can send info like:
- Battery level
- How often you use your apps
- Quality and length of your network connections (like mobile, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth)
Turn usage & diagnostics on or off
Important: If you turn off usage and diagnostics, your device can still get essential services, like a new version of Android. Turning off usage and diagnostics won’t affect info that apps might collect.
To choose whether to send usage and diagnostics info to Google:
- Open your device’s Settings app.
- Tap Google More Usage & diagnostics.
- Turn Usage & diagnostics on or off.
Tip: If you use a shared device, other user profiles may change this setting .
How Google uses this information
For example, Google can use usage and diagnostics info to improve:
- Battery life: Google can use info about what’s using the most battery on your device to help make common features use less battery.
- Crashing or freezing on devices: Google can use info about when apps crash and freeze on your device to help make the Android operating system more reliable.
Some aggregated info can help partners, like Android developers, make their apps and products better, too.
Allowing Chrome to send us automatic reports helps us prioritize what to fix and improve in Chrome. These reports can include things like when Chrome crashes, how much memory you’re using, and some personal information.
You can start or stop allowing these reports any time.
- On your computer, open Chrome.
- At the top right, click More Settings.
- Under “You and Google,” select Sync and Google services.
- Turn on or off Help improve Chrome’s features and performance.
- At the bottom right, select the time.
- Select Settings .
- At the bottom, click Advanced.
- Under “Privacy and security,” turn Automatically send diagnostic and usage data to Google on or off.
Note: If you’re using your Chromebook at work or school, you might not be able to change this setting. For more help, contact your administrator.
What these reports include
If Chrome crashes, some personal information might be included in the report. These reports have:
- Memory related to the crash, which may include page contents, payment information, and passwords
- Your Chrome settings
- Extensions you have installed
- The web page you were visiting at the time of the crash
- Your device’s operating system, manufacturer, and model
- The country where you’re using Chrome
The wireless network report is one of the more useful tools in Windows 10 that can help you diagnose Wi-Fi connection problems.
To create the wireless network report
In the search box on the taskbar, type Command prompt, press and hold (or right-click) Command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
At the command prompt, type netsh wlan show wlanreport.
This will generate a wireless network report that’s saved as an HTML file, which you can open in your favorite web browser. The report shows all the Wi-Fi events from the last three days and groups them by Wi-Fi connection sessions. It also shows the results of several network-related command line scripts and a list of all the network adapters on your PC.
The wireless network report contains the following sections:
Wi-Fi summary chart. This chart shows the Wi-Fi connection sessions that are available in the report. Select a section in the chart to go to the corresponding Wi-Fi session shown in the report.
A red circle indicates an error. If you see one, select it to get info about the error.
Report Info. Shows the date the report was created and how many days it covers.
General System Info. Contains details about your PC. It includes the computer name, system manufacturer, system product name, BIOS date, BIOS version, OS build, Machine ID, and info about if it’s MDM joined.
User Info. Contains general information about the person who is currently signed in to the PC. It contains:
Username. Current user signed in to the PC.
User Domain. The domain the PC is joined to.
User DNS Domain.
Network adapters. Contains a detailed list of all the network adapters on your PC. This includes any hidden adapters.
Device. This is the friendly name of the adapter.
PnP ID. The PnP ID the PC uses to identify the adapter.
Guid. The Unique identifier of this adapter on your PC.
Current driver version. Current driver version the adapter is using.
Driver date. The date the driver was installed.
Problem number. If there’s a problem with your adapter, the problem number will be listed here.
IPConfig /all. Shows detailed information about the state of the adapters on the system. This includes the physical (MAC) address, IP address, DNS server, if DHCP is enabled, and much more.
NetSh WLAN Show All. Shows detailed information about your Wi-Fi adapter including the adapter’s capabilities, the Wi-Fi profiles on your PC (not including security keys or passwords), and a list of the Wi-Fi networks that were found when you ran the report.
CertUtil -store -silent My & certutil -store -silent -user My. Contains a list of the current certificates on your PC.
Profile Output. A detailed list of all the Wi-Fi profiles stored on your PC. Security keys and passwords are encrypted and aren’t displayed.
Session Success/Failures. Summary of the successes, failures, and warnings that are reported for the different Wi-Fi sessions.
Disconnect Reasons. Lists the different reasons you were disconnected from the Wi-Fi network.
Session Durations. A chart that shows how long each of the following sessions lasted.
Wireless Sessions. All the Wi-Fi events associated with each Wi-Fi session.
Interface name. Friendly name for the adapter.
Interface Guid. Unique identifier for the adapter.
Connection Mode. How your device connected to the network—Manual, Auto with a profile, and so forth.
Profile. Profile used in the connection (when a profile is used).
SSID. The name of the Wi-Fi network.
BSS Type. Type of network—Infrastructure, Independent (adhoc), or any (either Infrastructure or Adhoc).
Session Duration. How long the session lasted.
Disconnection Reason. Reason why you were disconnected.
Events. All the Wi-Fi events for this session.
To get more info about an event, select it. These events are color coded and can help you to diagnose problems. The summary chart has a definition for each of the different colors.
Chris Hoffman is Editor-in-Chief of How-To Geek. He’s written about technology for over a decade and was a PCWorld columnist for two years. Chris has written for The New York Times, been interviewed as a technology expert on TV stations like Miami’s NBC 6, and had his work covered by news outlets like the BBC. Since 2011, Chris has written over 2,000 articles that have been read nearly one billion times—and that’s just here at How-To Geek. Read more.
Macs include a Wireless Diagnostics tool that can help you speed up your Wi-Fi network and improve its signal strength. It also includes many additional tools for power users.
This tool is useful for everyone from Mac beginners to experts, but it’s a bit hidden. It requires digging through your list of installed apps or just holding down the Option key as you click a menu.
Opening Wireless Diagnostics
To open this tool, hold the Option key down on your keyboard, click the Wi-fi icon on the bar at the top of your screen, and select Open Wireless Diagnostics. You can also press Command+Space and type Wireless Diagnostics to search for it.
Diagnose Wi-Fi Problems
By default, the tool opens to a simple wizard that helps you diagnose network problems. Select “Monitor my Wi-Fi connection” and click Continue to have the tool monitor your connection and attempt to detect any problems. You can also just select “Continue to summary” to see recommendations immediately.
The diagnostics tool will inform you about ways to improve your Wi-Fi signal. Click the information icon to see more information about the recommendations.
These recommendations will be most useful if you’re actually having Wi-Fi problems, but they could be helpful for improving speed and signal strength even if you’re not.
Access More Tools in the Window Menu
This may seem like all there is to the tool, but it isn’t. You can bring up a variety of other useful Wi-Fi tools by clicking the Window menu in the Wireless Diagnostics application and selecting one of the other integrated tools to open that tool’s window.
The “Assistant” option at the top of the menu is the wizard that appears when you open the tool. The other options are additional tools.
The Info tool shows a variety of details about your network connection, Wi-Fi interface, and even Bluetooth status. This is where you can find details like your IP address, MAC address, and other network information.
You can also just hold down the Option key and click the Wi-Fi icon on your menu bar to view much of this information without opening the Wireless Diagnostics tool.
The Logs utility allows you to enable automatic background-logging of various network-related things, including Wi-Fi, 802.1X, DHCP, DNS, Open Directory, and Sharing. You can then close the Wireless Diagnostics tool and your Mac will continue collecting logs in the background.
This is useful if you need to monitor something, but you shouldn’t leave logging enabled all the time — it’s unnecessary and a waste of resources. Be sure to disable background-logging after you’re done using it if you actually need to enable this logging-feature. Remember, most people don’t.
The Scan toll will scan for nearby Wi-Fi networks and display a list of. You can see a list of nearby Wi-Fi networks along with their security, protocol, and signal details.
More usefully, it’ll inform you which Wi-Fi channels would be the best ones for your router. Change the Wi-Fi channel on your router to get a faster, more reliable wireless signal.
The Performance window shows you information about the Wi-Fi signal your Mac is receiving. This includes its transmit rate, signal-to-noise ratio over time (“quality”), and signal (“RSSI”) and noise measurements over time.
Assuming you have a Mac laptop, you can walk around with it to see how the signal strength and noise vary between different locations. This can help you find wireless dead zones — or just places with poor signal strength.
The Sniffer utility allows you to “sniff” the Wi-Fi signal in the air, capturing nearby packets and logging them. It’ll capture the packets for as long as you want to monitor them and save a log of the captured packets to a .wcap file on your desktop.
You can open this .wcap file with a tool like Wireshark, as there’s no tool built into Mac OS X to analyze its contents easily. But you don’t need any special software to sniff packets and save them to a file on your Mac.
This too is deceptively powerful. For most people, it can be a quick way to get some recommendations for improving your Wi-Fi and fixing problems. For power users, it’s a great source of information and detailed statistics built right into the operating system so you don’t have to seek out third-party tools.
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Chris Hoffman is Editor-in-Chief of How-To Geek. He’s written about technology for over a decade and was a PCWorld columnist for two years. Chris has written for The New York Times, been interviewed as a technology expert on TV stations like Miami’s NBC 6, and had his work covered by news outlets like the BBC. Since 2011, Chris has written over 2,000 articles that have been read nearly one billion times—and that’s just here at How-To Geek.
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Most smartphone users rarely discover all the things that their handsets are capable of. But that’s OK: as long as a smartphone does what its owner wants it to do, there’s no real need for other things. Still, if you have the time and the curiosity to dig deeper into the insides of your phone’s software, you may find things that you didn’t know were there.
All mobile phones have some secret codes that don’t come with the manual, so it’s no wonder that such codes work on Android smartphones. We’ll now show you a code that reveals a hidden Android Testing menu (“testing” is literally the name of this menu). The code is *#*#4636#*#* – you’ll just need to introduce it via your phone’s dialer. Once the last character is introduced, the Testing menu appears out of nowhere, showing you four sub-menus: Phone information (IMEI number, current network, etc.), Battery information (including health, voltage, and temperature), Usage statistics (showing the apps that were last used on your smartphone, including the exact usage time), and Wi-Fi information (besides finding Wi-Fi information, and being able to disable or enable networks, you can run ping tests from here – though you can also do this from the Phone info sub-menu).
While the *#*#4636#*#* code works on various Android smartphones, you may discover that it can’t be used on some devices. Anyway, be careful when accessing the hidden Testing menu. If you change something, make sure you know what you’re doing. For example, if you turn off the phone’s radio (this can be done from the Testing -> Phone information sub-menu), you’ll no longer be able to use your device as a phone – for calls, text messages, or cellular data – unless you turn the radio on again.
Microsoft's recently unveiled OS, Windows 10, is the company's make-or-break reinstatement of what is the most used OS franchise in the world. Reviews of it are pretty good up till now, with Techradar saying "Feature-wise, Windows 10 is the new Windows 7. It's robust, pleasant to use and free," and PcAdvisor naming it "[. ] the best Windows OS yet. Windows 10 is free for most people and offers plenty of new features and apps." There is a hook, though.
Microsoft’s recently unveiled OS, Windows 10, is the company’s make-or-break version of what is the most used OS franchise in the world. Reviews of it are pretty good up till now, with Techradar saying “Feature-wise, Windows 10 is the new Windows 7. It’s robust, pleasant to use and free,” and PcAdvisor naming it “[…] the best Windows OS yet. Windows 10 is free for most people and offers plenty of new features and apps.”
There is a hook, though – it may send over some private information to Windows.
Yarrr! – there’s a hook
Image via villains.wikia.com
Windows 10 and information sharing
Windows 10, by default, has permission to report a huge amount of data back to Microsoft. By clicking through “Express Settings” during installation, you allow Windows 10 to gather up your contacts, calendar details, text and touch input, location data, and a whole lot more. The OS then sends it all back to Microsoft so that it can be used for personalisation and targeted ads.
This isn’t exactly unusual. More recent versions of the Windows family, unless explicitly told not to, share some kind of personal information with Microsoft’s main servers. Windows 10 definitely goes one (or quite a few more, actually) step further though, primarily thanks to Cortana (which ideally needs to be personalised/optimised based on your voice inputs, calendar, contacts, etc.) and other “cloudy” features that somewhat necessitate the collection and squirting of personal data back to Microsoft.
It’s not a deal-breaker. The information shared by Windows does help make your experience with the OS that more fluid and more relevant. However, if you’re (like me) not that bit a fan of sharing parts of your life with Microsoft, here’s a few steps you can take to dam the flow of data back to them.
Just be warned that there are quite a few toggles that need to be turned off, and you’ll lose some functionality as well (Cortana won’t work, for example). You win some you loose some, as the saying goes.
The first page of settings to be customised. You can turn all of these off.
Image credits Jonathan Porta.
Nip it in the bud
The easiest and fastest way to turn off Windows 10’s eavesdropping privileges (various data logging, personalisation, and telemetry functions) is to turn them off during the installation or update process.
During installation, do not press “Use Express settings” but opt for the “Customise settings” button. The first customisation page has settings for personalisation, targeted advertising, and location tracking. If you’re trying to maximise your privacy, go ahead and disable everything on this first page.
Except for SmartScreen at the top, you can turn the rest of these off.
Image credits Jonathan Porta.
This second page has a somewhat useful option at the top, but the others—predictive Web browsing, connecting to open Wi-Fi hot spots, and Wi-Fi Sense—can be turned off.
Another way of sharing less data with Microsoft is to use a local account rather than log in with a Microsoft account. The “Create a new account” and “Sign in without a Microsoft account” buttons are your best two friends for this and you should click on them with confidence. Keep in mind that this will prevent any of your settings/data from automatically propagating to any other Windows devices that you own.
The next steps need to be done from within a fully installed Windows 10 system.
The Privacy button does just what it says
The Privacy applet in Windows 10. You can probably turn all these off too.
Head to the new Settings app and click the Privacy button. You can toggle all of these settings to “Off,” though you may choose to keep SmartScreen Filter enabled. Most of these may already be disabled if you turned everything off during installation.
At the bottom of the Privacy applet, click Feedback. From here, you can set the Feedback frequency to “never,” which may prevent Windows 10 from reporting some data back to Microsoft. Note, however, that “Feedback options” cannot currently be disabled; it can only be set to “basic.”
Disable agent Cortana
From this window you can disable Cortana.
Hit the Start button. Type a few letters and the Start screen will be replaced by a grey search window. Click the cog icon to reveal Cortana’s settings pane (pictured right) and then triumphantly slay her by flipping the toggle to “Off.” If you’d rather keep Cortana turned on but with some of her other abilities curtailed, they can be configured here as well.
That should be about it: you are now reporting very little data back to Microsoft.
We’ve showed you how you can make your Windows 10 experience more private, but the question you have to ask yourself is if the gain in privacy is justified, given the loss in funtionality? For some it will be, for others it will be not. Disabling personalisation definitely makes sense from a privacy perspective, but it could significantly dent voice recognition accuracy and the usefulness of certain OS features like Cortana. On the other hand, there aren’t many good reasons for keeping your advertising tracker ID turned on.
And even though this guide will mostly stop Windows 10 from sending personal data back to Microsoft, there are still a few other mechanisms and services that continue to report back unless you dig into the registry and group policy editor.
But, you should now have a rough idea of how best to protect your data, and choose what you share of it to the guys at Microsoft.
From these posts I got the mobile app working without using the Starlink router at all. What I'd love to do next is figure out how to pull data without using the app.
I did find one other interesting piece on the app itself (on Android at least), when you activate the developer mode on the app, you can scroll the stats page and see back in time (data goes back 12 hours):
Current Time (6:25 PM Mountain time)
11: 40 AM Mountain Time
9:00 AM local time
Oh, and I almost forgot, here is a nmap scan of the static IP address:
And trying to reach SSH:
I've been trying to figure out the same thing. I too am running without the Starlink router. When you don't use the router it seems you lose any type of history stats from the app, it only reports when the app is open.
I ran a more intense nmap scan and got a bit more info. Seems to have a web server running on port 80 @ 192.168.100.1. I would guess that's where the stats are coming from? It just seems to redirect to the starlink website though.
Neato Toolio – Diagnostic tool for Neato Botvacs
Current Version Builds
Slowly adding support for calls for the XV, BotVac and BotVac Connected / D3-D7 models.
NeatoToolio is “Ready” to download and play with. I think. At least to a point where can start letting other people play around and weed out all the many issues I am sure to crop up that I didn’t catch or think of. Things to consider.
I have a D3, D7, XV-16, D75 in my hands. Only things I could test against. So anything else maybe hit or miss. Such as the BotVac Connected for example.
While i’ve tried to catch bugs, I am sure there are many in here.
If a crash is bad enough a NeatoToolio_bugreport.txt file is generated and will get a popup. Can save this and view it.. and you can email it to me. It will try to use your email client if one installed. Will send to [email protected]
I have no “tools” yet .. like drain the battery. Create a dump of information to paste around. There is under Serial / Raw Data tab, all send/recv text , so can for now copy from there.
My script engine support is no where near ready.. So that will be not visible for now. Like to get that going in the next few weeks. I will probably do the drain/recharge tool in this.
I still have a lot of work ahead of me to go back through the source code and start optimizing some things. Business logic code. GUI look and feel. More error catching. ect.
Some things will auto enable TestMode.. items that say they won’t run at all unless enabled.
So if its a call that can still work without testmode ON . it won’t turn it on. This may change if people report they want certain tabs to turn testmode on ( in case it is off )
I don’t have an online update mechanism in place right now.. maybe later this week. I really don’t want to host files, so may see if I can do this by using GitHub to host files for me.
Once I think everything in the Windows flavor is to a happy place, I will be switching to the Android and possibly iOS side of things. Delphi allows cross compile and I’ve tested a few things with my Android devices and it works, but I have to remap all the GUI design to be mobile friendly. Which GUI is the pain usually in any dev work. iOS I am not 100% sure as iOS deployment is 1000x more a pain in the butt than Google Play Store.
IP / Port connecting ( wireless serial adapters ) will come eventually as I have a new adapter i’ve tested.
Remember, this is free. so don’t complain to much 🙂
Everything that isn’t a paid for 3rd party that I own licenses to is posted to this repository. Hopefully as time allows, ill be cleaning up source and improving. Please let me know and please don’t hammer me to badly 🙂
Since Wi-Fi is a vital part of today’s MacBook experience, connection problems are serious business. We know you want to get back online right away, whether it’s to turn in an important report or catch up on the latest streaming episode.
Here’s a guide on what to do to get your MacBook back on the network quickly and fix what went wrong. Take a look and find the solutions that fit your problem.
Run Wireless Diagnostics
Modern versions of MacOS (since around Mountain Lion times) have a diagnostic tool built in to check the wireless network. Start by running this tool: Hold down the Option key (Alt on some Mac keyboards) and select the Wi-Fi icon in the upper-right corner of your screen. Then, select the Open Wireless Diagnostics option that has appeared there. Click Continue, enter your login password if necessary, and wait for the diagnostics to complete.
When given a choice, head to the summary of the diagnostics. Select the blue “i” button next to each summary note to learn more, and see if any of the notes include an important error or failure that you can note when pursuing solutions. If the diagnostics tool finds a major problem, it may stop diagnostics entirely and give you a pop-up window instead with a valuable description of what’s going wrong.
Check your Wi-Fi connection and restart your router
Is the Wi-Fi acting poorly for other devices, too? That’s a good sign that the network itself is at fault. It’s a good idea to start with a router inspection to see if anything is wrong. Do a physical inspection of the cables to make sure connections are secure, and make any changes if necessary.
Then you can reset your router to see if this helps fix your problem. Resetting a router can fix all sorts of issues, including problems with router updates, dropped connections, and lost connections with hard-line internet. Remember to unplug your router from the modem before you begin, and wait for a little while before turning your router back on to make sure the reset is a success.
Update MacOS and other software
Dan Baker/Digital Trends
Have you recently updated MacOS? Sometimes, new updates can cause connection problems. In this case, you can roll back the update and wait — Wi-Fi problems in updates are, for obvious reasons, quickly patched. It should be no more than a day or so before you can update safely.
However, an update can frequently fix any problems you may be having with Wi-Fi problems, particularly if it’s been a while since you have updated your computer. So, check MacOS for any updates that haven’t yet been implemented, and see if your Mac recommends updating any router devices.
Change preferred order of services
Head over to System Preferences in your Dock and select Network. This gives you a closer look at your Wi-Fi settings and the network that you are trying to connect to. This screen can help you if you want to create a new Wi-Fi network or turn your Wi-Fi detection off and on again, but there’s something else you should try here as well.
Select the gear-shaped Settings icon in the bottom-left corner, then choose Set Service Order. Here, simply make sure that “Wi-Fi” is on top. If other entries are before it, then your Mac may not be giving that router enough attention.
Check your TCP/IP settings
The Network section of System Preferences can also help you resolve TCP/IP problems. Open it up as in the previous step, then click Advanced and click the TCP/IP tab. If you don’t see your IPv4 address here, or something else seems unusual, select Renew DHCP Lease, which offers a basic reset of your network connections.
There’s rarely ever an issue with modern network systems but, if resetting your network doesn’t fix the problem, reach out to your network administrator. Or, check with your local internet service provider to sort through the settings in your TCP/IP and DNS tabs. Once you’ve set an appointment and communicated with your provider, you can follow their instructions for changing your network information. With this method, you may have to check that your internet settings are accurate manually.
Remove all your accessories
While this advice may seem unusual, it happens frequently. The accessories and devices in your home could be interrupting your Wi-Fi connection. This problem has popped up quite a bit with the newer Macs with USB-C ports because they can produce an opposing signal to the network. To check if your device is disrupting the network, unplug every accessory and reboot your Wi-Fi. At that point, check to see if your computer can connect to the system. If it does, then plug each device back in one-by-one until you can pinpoint which accessory is causing the problem.
It’s definitely not ideal, but your best bet is to avoid using the disruptive device. Try running it only when you don’t need an internet connection or try to return it for a refund if possible.