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How to remove a drill bit

Last Updated: November 16, 2019 References

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Removing a broken drill bit can seem like a hassle, but it doesn’t have to be! Whether the bit is stuck in metal, wood, drywall, or any other material, if you can see the end of the drill bit, try clamping a pair of locking pliers onto it and rotating the bit counterclockwise to pull it out. If the drill bit is deeply embedded in the material, chisel off any jagged edges, create a divot with a centerpunch, bore a small hole into the broken bit, and then use a tap extractor to remove it. You can also take preventative measures to help prevent the drill bit from breaking in the future.

How to Remove a Drill Bit

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How to Remove a Drill Bit

u00a9 2020 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.
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Tip: If you don’t have locking pliers, use a pair of pliers that have serrated jaws so you can grip the end of the broken drill bit.

Things You’ll Need

Warning

Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from dust and bits of concrete.

Drilling holes into concrete requires masonry drill bits. The type of drill you use determines the type of masonry bit. Some bits have blunt tips and are used in hammer-type drills. Standard rotary drills use a concrete bit with a regular tip. Failure to allow the concrete material to exit the hole as you drill causes the bit to bind and eventually break. Removing a drill bit from a concrete hole depends upon whether the bit broke above the surface or below the surface of the concrete.

Step 1

Blow air straight into the hole with the canned air. This will loosen and remove some of the concrete dust around the drill bit.

Step 2

Lock the jaws of a pair of vise grips around the end of the bit, if the bit broke off above the surface. Grab the bit as close to the work surface as possible. Pull out the drill bit while turning the bit counterclockwise with the vise grips. Blow air into the hole as necessary if the bit jams while removing it from the concrete.

Step 3

Insert the jaw tips of a pair of needle-nose pliers into the hole, if the bit broke below the work surface. Attempt to grasp the end of the bit with the needle-nose pliers. If the needle-nose pliers cannot reach the bit, make the hole slightly larger with another drill bit. Drill just until you reach the broken bit.

Step 4

Blow the hole out with the canned air. Grasp the end of the drill bit with the needle-nose pliers. Pull and twist counterclockwise with the pliers to remove the bit from the hole.

How to Remove a Drill Bit

A drill press is an important tool that you need to make holes. Such models are very precise and are super important if you like to do something on your own. This kind of tools is relatively easy to operate (but you still need to be careful) and their prices are not very high. A good drill press can work for years without requiring any special kind of maintenance, however, you may need to replace a drill press bit. Luckily, there is nothing difficult about it and you can do it within several minutes.

Drill Bits

These parts have to endure high loads, but even the strongest tool has to be replaced. Such parts are easy to find and get. There are many manufacturers who can provide you with high-quality bits. The prices are not very high and you can find the option that meets your requirements.

Replacing the Bits

The whole process will not take much time, but first, you need to get all the tools required to perform the replacement operation. You need to have:

  • Drill press bits set
  • A chuck key

The very first step is to put on protective equipment – despite the fact that this operation does not include using a working drill you have to be careful. If there is any dust (including metal swarf) – clean the necessary space with a special brush.

Now you can change a drill bit. The process is quite simple and it has such steps:

  • Remove a drill bit, you need to use a chunk key to loosen the chunk – insert it into one of the holes (there are three of them) in the chunk. Make sure the key teeth fit into the chunk grooves. Turn the chunk key to the left. When you loosen the chunk you can stop using a key and continue using your hands. Use one hand to hold the bit – it should not fall, otherwise, you are risking damaging the bit.
  • Now you can install the new bit and insert it into the spindle. You should get as much of the shank as possible with covering no drill bits flutes with the chunk jaws. Then you need to tighten the chunk using your hands so the bit does not fall. Now you can use the chunk key – insert it in one of the chunk holes and turn it to tighten it. You need to repeat this process for all the holes. Make sure that everything is tightened properly and the bit is placed correctly – nothing should shake. It is necessary to mention that there should be some shank space between the chuck jaws and the flutes. It would be ideal if space is about the same as the drill diameter.

That is it, that is how simple and fast this process is. Now you can start drilling holes. Make sure you always use personal protective equipment and high-quality bits.

How to Remove a Drill Bit

To be as useful as possible, most drills come with a range of drill bit sizes. This lets you switch between bits to take on multiple jobs. But what happens when the bit gets stuck inside the drill?

If you’re not careful, you might end up damaging both the bit and the drill in your bid to remove it. So, how do you get a stuck drill bit out?

When a drill bit gets stuck there is a range of measures that you can try. In general, though, you’ll need to loosen the chuck. In some cases, you might need to use a wrench or a screwdriver to try and loosen it. Once the chuck is loose, you should be able to remove the drill bit.

The best way to loosen the drill chuck will depend on the type of drill that you are using. Let’s take a closer look at some of these techniques.

Loosening The Chuck Using A Wrench Or Vice

Often, the most efficient way to remove a chuck is by using a wrench or vice to loosen it.

The chuck is the part of the drill that is designed to hold the bit in place. In most drills, it will be made of plastic. However, some might have it made from metal.

In most cases, you will be able to screw the chuck open to remove the bit. But, when it gets jammed, you’ll need to take other measures to open the chuck.

To get a little extra leverage, you might want to try attaching a wrench to the chuck. This will make it easier for you to grip. If you don’t have a wrench available, or it can’t grip the plastic properly, you might want to use a vice.

Once you’ve got a steady grip on the chuck, you can try twisting it. This should open it and release the bit.

These days, most drills will be able to run in a clockwise and anti-clockwise direction. This will allow you to use the power of the drill to loosen the chuck. In most models, you’ll be able to find a slide that will control the direction in which the drill operates. You’ll need to slide this to the left, to run the drill counterclockwise.

In most cases, this will be enough to get the bit out of the drill. However, in other circumstances, it can still be wedged in the chuck. In this case, you might want to try smearing a little lubricant along the bit. This can be all that’s needed to loosen it up and allow you to remove it safely.

Though this method will often be effective in releasing the bit, you should be careful. Applying excess pressure to the chuck might damage the drill.

To prevent this, you should wrap the wrench or vice in a piece of cloth. This will also let you get more grip on the chuck.

Releasing The Chuck On Older Drills

In some cases, you might be using an older drill. These can have a specific procedure for removing the bit.

Unlike more modern drills, they will need a key to remove the bit. If this is the case, you should see holes in the chuck. To release the bit, you’ll need to put the key into the hole and turn it clockwise. Once one had been loosened, move on to the next hole. It will often take a few turns before it will be loose enough to remove the bit.

By the time this has been done, you should be able to remove the bit from the drill safely.

If you have misplaced the key, you should be able to find a replacement online. When looking, remember that there will be several different sizes. So, you need to find one that is compatible with your drill.

Drill Bit Stuck In Material

In some cases, you might be drilling into the material, and the bit becomes jammed. There are a few methods you can try to get the bit out.

First, you might want to try using a pair of pliers to grip the bit, turning it anticlockwise. This will free it from the drill, and allow you to work on removing the bit from the wood.

In other cases, it might be too embedded in the material for this approach to work. In this case, you might want to try drilling out the bit. To do this, free the bit from the drill, using the method described earlier.

Then, choose a bit that has a larger diameter than the one that is jammed. By taking accurate measurements, drill on the other side of the material. As you do this, you will be able to drill out the bit. The downside to this approach is that the two bits will need to grind against each other. This can dull them, and they might need to be replaced.

Removing A Broken Drill Bit

In some cases, the drill bit might have sheared off inside the drill. If that’s the case, it can make it harder to use one of the above methods.

In this case, you will need to use pliers to get a grip on the broken bit. Then, slowly start to turn the chuck counterclockwise. This should release the pressure on the bit, and allow you to remove it safely from the drill.

As a quick safety tip, you should remember that the drill bits will have very sharp edges, especially if they shear off. So, you should make sure that you are careful when handling the bit so that you don’t accidentally hurt yourself.

Why Do Drill Bits Get Stuck?

Hopefully, you now know how to get a stuck drill bit out. But why did it get stuck in the first place? There are a few reasons why this might be occurring.

First, the chuck might not have been oiled properly. Oiling is an essential part of the drill maintenance process. This will make it easier to slide in and slide out the drill bit.

In other cases, the chuck might have been overtightened. As you used the drill, the vibrations might have pulled the chuck even tighter on the drill bit. By the time you want to remove the bit, it could be very tight.

You should also make sure that you are using the right drill bit for the job. For example, some bits will be designed for drilling metal while others will work best when they are used for wood. By doing this, you’ll be able to reduce the chances that the drill bit will shear off or getting stuck while you are trying to drill into the material.

Freeing Your Drill Bit

When a drill bit gets jammed, it can present a big problem. To help you free the bits, we looked at some tips that you can use.

To recap, these tips were:

  • Using a grip or vice to hold the chuck while you run the drill in a counterclockwise direction.
  • Using a key to remove the bit from an older drill
  • Using pliers to free a bit that’s trapped in the wood. You can also try to drill the bit out.
  • Using pliers to remove a sheared drill bit.
  • Making sure that the chuck has been oiled properly, to prevent bits from getting stuck.

Jack Adams

Hi there! My name is Jack and I write for ToolsOwner. I have a passion for everything related to tools and DIY projects around the house. You often find me in my workshop working on new projects.

Things You’ll Need

Calipers or tape measure

Screw extractor set

Metal drill bit, same diameter as stuck bit

Warning

Use the drilling-out method only as a last resort; drilling out often damages the wood material surrounding the stuck bit.

How to Remove a Drill Bit

If you have a drill bit stuck in wood, you’re probably facing one of two scenarios: either the drill bit’s shank is protruding from the wood, or the bit’s shank snapped off and left the bit fully embedded in the wood. If the bit’s shank is sticking out of the surface, you can easily remove the bit with basic hand tools. If the drill bit is fully embedded in the wood, you must either use a specialized extractor tool or simply “drill out” the entire bit with a metal boring drill.

Bit With Shaft Protruding

Step 1

Open the jaws of a pair of pliers. Compress the jaws around the shank of the drill bit that is stuck.

Step 2

Grip the pliers’ handles and twist the drill bit counterclockwise.

Step 3

Turn the pliers counterclockwise to loosen the drill bit and draw the bit out of the wood.

Embedded: Screw Extractor Method

Step 1

Measure the diameter of the stuck drill bit with calipers or a tape measure. From the screw extractor kit, select a drill bit and screw extractor of smaller diameter than the stuck bit. Attach the bit to a power drill.

Step 2

Center the power drill’s bit at the center of the stuck drill bit’s shank. Drill approximately halfway through the stuck bit’s shank with the power drill.

Step 3

Attach the screw extractor to the screw extractor wrench. Press the tip of the screw extractor into the hole that you drilled through the stuck bit’s shank. Twist the wrench to thread the extractor into the bit. Continue to thread the extractor into the bit until the bit loosens and begins to turn counterclockwise.

Step 4

Turn the extractor wrench until the stuck bit comes free from the wood.

Related Articles

Almost nothing is more frustrating: You get halfway through drilling a hole and the drill bit snaps off. The resulting stub seems hopelessly stuck. Fortunately, small tools have been specifically designed to remove broken bits. You probably already have one of them in your tool box. Simple locking pliers are the typical remedy for broken bits. If that doesn’t work, get your hands on a set of screw extractors. Also known as easy-outs, these conical, reverse threaded bits can remove even the most stubborn broken bits.

Locking Plier Method

Clamp locking pliers onto the broken end of the drill bit if possible. Twist the pliers in a counterclockwise motion to back out the bit and remove it.

Cut a small recessed area around the bit with a chisel if you can’t access the broken end with pliers. Make the cutout just big enough so that you can lock the tip of the pliers onto the tip of the bit.

Twist the pliers in a counterclockwise motion to remove the bit.

Extractor

Place the end of a center punch centered on the end of the broken bit. Tap the center punch hard with a hammer to create a small divot on the end of the bit.

Insert a drill bit into a drill/driver. The drill bit should be smaller than the broken bit. For example, if the drill bit is 3/8-inch, use a 1/4-inch drill bit or smaller. Place the tip of the bit directly onto the divot. Drill straight down into the end of the bit slowly to a depth of at least 1/2 inch.

Insert the cone-shaped end of an extractor bit into the hole. The end of the extractor should be slightly smaller than the hole. Tap the end of the extractor with a hammer to secure it.

Place a wrench on the top of the extractor. The extractor has flat sides at the top for this purpose. Turn the extractor in a counterclockwise motion with the wrench to remove the broken bit.

I recently bought a Bosch PSB 500 RE power drill and already I kinda screwed up the machine.

The chuck is keyless, consisting of two parts which I’ll refer to as the head and the base. You would hold the base and rotate the head relative to the base to loosen or tighten the bit.

The machine is also equipped with a grip that is located on the drill body just before the base of the chuck.

While drilling this grip slipped and caught the base, stopped it from turning, so that only the head of the chuck was turning in the grip direction.

Now the whole chuck is too tight and it seems I can’t release the bit any more. Any solutions?

Edit 1

I tried wearing gloves, it didn’t help. I also tried putting some WD40, but that didn’t help because the bit is way too tight.

I heard that the chuck assembly can be replaced, what do you think?

How to Remove a Drill Bit

9 Answers 9

Put the drill in reverse, firmly grip the chuck (the part you were calling the head) and gently squeeze the trigger up the point that you cannot hold on. If you hear clicking, and it doesn’t torque very much, you need to turn the torque setting up to the maximum (the highest number, or the drill setting if it has one). If it still doesn’t budge and you’re not able to hold the chuck against the force of the drill, you may want to use something stronger than your hand to hold the chuck. A strap wrench is well designed for this task and won’t damage the chuck.

That happens once in a while with such chucks. Been there, loosened that. Don’t worry.

When all else fails I wrap the chuck ring in cloth and use a pipe wrench. Sometimes only more torque can help. Just be sure you’re turning it in the right direction.

I tried all the suggestions I could find on the internet that worked for others, but none worked for me as my drill bit was way more stuck than theirs I guess!

The suggestions (and the result, so you are warned what could go wrong if you try it!):

  • hold the chuck and run the drill in reverse – I nearly burned my hand. Tried it with a thick gardening glove on, and still nearly burned my hand.
  • soak the head in WD40 to loosen the bit – nothing gained from this for me
  • hit the drill bit into the chuck as this helps release the jaws inwards – despite multiple bashes with a hammer nothing budged and the drill bit was no more loose than when I first started
  • use a strap wrench – the only way to do this was to grip around the chuck and run the drill in the opposite direction. As the drill bit was so stuck and the drill torque was so high it was the drill (rather than the chuck) that started to rotate and started moving towards drilling into my arm!

In the end I used two strap wrenches, one at the point the chuck should be turned and one just below. With the drill battery disconnected I was practically standing on the chuck to put enough force into the strap wrenches. There was so much force the chuck distorted into an oval (and this was a high quality drill), but eventually it popped and the drill bit came free.

Incidentally I oiled the chuck afterwards as it was very stiff (despite the previous oiling) which was probably a contributing factor to how stuck the drill bit was.

Step 1: Open Up the Chuck Mechanism

Make sure your drill has been disconnected from its power source. Then pull back on the chuck’s sleeve, and using your small screwdriver, ease off the rubber cap.

Now the cap has been removed, the outer sleeve of the chuck will slide off.

Step 2: Remove the Circlip

Using the circlip pliers, squeeze the clip together then ease it up and off the chuck. This, in turn, allows you to remove the ball bearing retainer, the part of the chuck that grips the SDS bit.

Finally, in this step, remove the spring.

Step 3: Preparing the Chuck

You will be able to see the ball bearing contained in the slot of the chuck. This ball fits into the indentation on your SDS bit, locking it in place in the chuck. Once your replacement SDS chuck has been unpacked, use your grease to lubricate the shank where the new ball bearing will sit.

Step 4: Fitting the New Ball Bearing

Now fit the new spring over the shank, followed by the curved, saucer-shaped washer. At this point, insert the new ball bearing into the slot. Once in place it’ll hold the washer and spring in place. Fit the large washer on to the shank, followed by the retaining plastic washer. This washer has a groove and a raised edge. The raised edge goes down the shank first with the groove slotting over the ball bearing. Fit the last washer then the front slide, which will all be held in place via the circlip.

Step 5: Re-fitting the Circlip

Using the circlip pliers, introduce the clip to the snout of the shank, easing it apart and down onto the ringed groove. Use the small screwdriver if needed to ease it into place. Now place the plastic cap down onto the circlip at the end of the shank.

The chuck has now been reassembled! Fit an SDS bit into the chuck and you’ll find that it now locks safely into place.

Congratulations, you’ve repaired your SDS chuck! Safe drilling.

Power drills are essential in home improvement whether it’s for hanging a picture or going through a brick wall. Although there are many drill styles and types, when it comes to changing the drill bit, the only decision to be made is if your drill has a keyless or keyed chuck system. The majority of portable drills use a keyless chuck, while older or larger portable drills and drill presses use a keyed system.

What Is A Chuck?

A chuck is the part of the drill that holds the bit in place. Inside of the chuck are three jaws that open or close, depending on the direction you rotate the sleeve of the chuck. When installing a new bit, the key is to place it in the center of the chuck’s jaws. For large bits, centering is simple. However, with small bits, they can get stuck between the chucks, making it impossible to drill a hole because the bit will spin off-center.

Changing the Drill Bit On A Keyless Chuck

First, remove the existing drill bit from your drill by turning the sleeve clockwise to widen the jaws. As they move apart, the jaws will loosen their grasp on the drill bit and it will fall out.

If you are replacing your drill bit with a smaller one, tighten the sleeve to bring the jaws closer together before inserting your new bit. You can do this by manually rotating the sleeve clockwise or placing your drill in reverse and slowly pressing on the trigger. If your new bit will be larger, then loosen the jaws by rotating the sleeve clockwise or slowly pressing on your drill’s trigger while in the forward position.

Before you install the drill bit, make sure the jaws are wide enough to accept your bit. Next, carefully center the bit between the jaws and tighten the collar by turning it counterclockwise until it is locked in place. To speed up the tightening process, carefully place the bit inside of the chuck, place the drill in the forward position and slowly press on the trigger while holding the bit. You will need to hand tighten the sleeve at the end to confirm that the bit is secure.

Once your bit is fully installed, check to make sure it is centered prior to use. With your drill in the air, pull the trigger and check for wobbling. If the bit is not properly centered, you will immediately notice.

Changing the Drill Bit on A Keyed Chuck

A keyed chuck includes three holes in the chuck that are used to loosen and tighten drill bits. The key must be inserted and rotated in each hole in order for the chuck and jaws to move.

When removing or installing a drill bit into a keyed chuck, use the same basic steps as you would for a keyless chuck. However, final tightening is done with the key, not by hand.

When you insert your new bit, make sure it is centered between the jaws, begin the tightening by hand and then use the key, placing it in each hole. As with a keyless chuck, it is important to test your drill before use to ensure the bit is centered between the jaws.

How to Remove a Drill BitRemoving a drill bit from a Black & Decker drill can be difficult, if you never did it before. It also depends on the type of drill that you have. There are wood drill bits and metal drill bits. There is a difference between a cordless drill, which does not use a key, and a corded Black & Decker drill that uses the key. Both drills have a chuck.

The wood drill bits are used to cut holes in wood. Wood is more sensitive than metal. The lip and spur drill bit is used to cut holes in wood. You cannot use a wood drill on a metal object. There are a lot more wood drill bits, this is just a few.

The metal drill bits are more powerful than the wood drill bits. You can use a metal drill bit for wood, but you have to be very careful. There are many metal drill bits. Some are the spot drill bit and the core drill bit.

CHUCK
A chuck is a clamp that you put the drill bit in. You have the keyless chuck and the key chuck. You should understand the parts of the chuck to remove the drill bit. You should know about the sleeve, spline, scroll plate, and jaw of the chuck.

1. The sleeve chuck or collet chuck fits around the tool and grips it.
2. The spline is the grooves inside the chuck.
3. The scroll plate is round and the jaws are connected to it.
4. The jaws are used to hold on to the tool and they can be removed.

CHUCK- WITHOUT KEY

1. Find the switch on the Black & Decker cordless drill and turn it counterclockwise.
2. Hold the drill firmly with one hand and grasp the outer sleeve of the chuck with the other hand.
3. Press the trigger of the drill several times, holding the sleeve while you do this. Be careful as you do this so that the bit want fly out.

CHUCK- WITH KEY

1. Make sure the Black & Decker drill is unplugged.
2. The key shaped like a T is connected to the cord of your Black & Decker drill.
3. Find the hole on the side of the chuck and in front of the gear teeth, and put the key into the gear chuck.
4. Hold the drill firmly as your turn the key counterclockwise with your other hand. This will release the drill bit.

When you put in a drill bit you turn the key clockwise. Even though there are different types of drill bits, they are removed and put in the same way. Once you learn the different parts of your drill, you will find it easy to operate. The drill bits can be easy to remove if you take your time and be careful.

Now that you know how to remove a drill bit, have fun using your new Black & Decker drill whether it is a cordless or corded drill.

References:

How to Install a Keyless Drill Chuck – visit here

How to replace a keyless chuck on a Black & Decker drill – YouTube

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jarrett Melendez

Little else is more frustrating than a drill bit breaking off during a build or DIY project. Depending on how the bit broke off, you have a couple of options for extracting it. If the bit broke off so that a small length of the bit is sticking out from the wall, consider yourself lucky. If the bit is broken off below the surface of the wall, extraction is going to be a little bit tricky, but not impossible.

How to Remove a Drill Bit

Things You’ll Need

Ball peen hammer

Bit Is Above the Surface of the Wall

Step 1

Place a set of vise grips at the broken end of the bit.

Step 2

Tighten the vise grips around the broken end of the bit.

Step 3

Twist the grips around counterclockwise while pulling away from the wall until the bit is extracted.

If the Bit Is Below the Surface

Step 1

Place a washer so that hole in the washer is flush with the hole in the wall. Tap the washer with a ball-pen hammer until the broken end of the drill bit is flush with the washer.

Step 2

Use a wire welder to weld the inner ring of the washer to the drill bit. Weld an appropriately-sized nut to the washer. Follow the instructions with your wire welder and put on a welding mask and gloves before you do any welding. Allow the weld to set.

Step 3

Tighten a crescent wrench around the nut. Turn the wrench counterclockwise while pulling lightly away from the wall until the bit is extracted.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kimberly Johnson

Screws are useful devices with threaded posts that are inserted into materials to hold them securely together. Although the threads on a screw are very effective at gripping various materials, these threads become problematic if the screw is damaged. Occasionally, a screw will break or the head will become stripped, making it impossible to remove using a traditional screwdriver. It is possible to remove the screw through the use of several tools

How to Remove a Drill Bit

Things You’ll Need

1/8- to 1/4-inch drill bit

Step 1

Insert a 1/8- to 1/4-inch size drill bit into a drill. The size of the bit will depend on the size of the screw that is broken. The drill bit should be approximately 1/3 the size of the screw head, or the screw body if the head is broken off.

Step 2

Place the tip of the drill bit into the center top of the exposed screw. Turn on the drill and press the trigger to insert the drill bit into the metal screw until it is 1/8- to 1/4-inch deep. Stop drilling and set the drill aside.

Step 3

Insert the screw extractor onto the top of the screw in the hole created by the drill. Grip the top of the screw extractor with pliers and turn the extractor counterclockwise so that it digs into the screw. Continue twisting the screw extractor until the surface of the broken screw is raised above the surface into which it is inserted.

Step 4

Set aside the screw extractor and grasp the raised tip of the broken screw with the pliers. Twist the screw counterclockwise until it is removed from the surface.

Screw extractors are available in various sizes at home improvement and hardware stores. Choose a screw extractor that is less than 75 percent of the size of the screw. If you have another screw that is the same size, take it to the store with you and have a salesperson assist with selecting the proper size.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Fred Decker

How to Remove a Drill Bit

The popularity of Dremel’s line of rotary multitools is largely due to the remarkable variety of bits and accessories available for it. Learning to change a Dremel bit, then, is one of the very first skills you’ll need to learn after your purchase. There are a few different ways to go about it.

Ways to Change a Dremel Bit

The heart of the Dremel rotary multitool is a high-speed brushless electric motor that turns a central shaft at speeds of up to 35,000 RPM in some models. A variety of bits and accessories harness that rotary motion, so a single Dremel can be used for sanding, grinding, drilling, cutting and many more functions.

There are three main methods for changing the Dremel bit: using the standard collet-and-nut method, the MultiChuck or the EZ SpeedClic system. The standard method is straightforward but less convenient if you need to frequently swap accessories. The MultiChuck and EZ SpeedClic systems offer a more convenient way to exchange compatible accessories, but not all accessories are compatible.

Collet-and-Nut Method

The collet-and-nut method uses two separate pieces as well as the Dremel bit or accessory you wish to attach to the multitool. The first is the collet itself, which fits into the Dremel’s shaft and is sized to hold a specific range of accessories. The standard size is 3.2 mm, but collets are available in other sizes including 2.4 mm, 1.6 mm and 0.8 mm. The threaded nut fits over the collet and tightens to hold the accessory firmly in place.

  1. Choose the accessory you wish to use. Its shank will correspond to one of the four collet sizes. Select the correct collet for your bit.

Unplug the Dremel if it’s a corded model or double-check that it’s turned off if it’s a cordless model. Hold down the shaft-lock button to immobilize the shaft.

Loosen the collet nut using the supplied wrench and set it aside. Remove the current collet if it isn’t already the correct size for your accessory. Replace the collet nut but don’t tighten it yet.

  • Insert your Dremel bit or accessory into the collet and retighten the collet nut with the wrench. Release the shaft-lock button and plug in the multitool or switch it back on.
  • Some newer Dremel models have the company’s EZ Twist Nose Cap, which serves as a tool to tighten the collet nut. If you own one of those models, you won’t need to use the wrench.

    MultiChuck Accessory-Changing Method

    The Dremel MultiChuck accessory attaches to the multitool’s shaft, and it looks and works very much like a scaled-down version of the keyless chuck found on most modern corded and cordless drills.

    1. Select a Dremel bit or accessory you wish to use.

    Unplug the multitool if it’s a corded model or switch it off if it’s cordless. Hold down the shaft-lock button to immobilize the shaft.

    Loosen the threaded sleeve of the MultiChuck and remove the current bit or accessory from the Dremel. Set it aside for repeat use or return it to its storage location if you won’t be using it again.

    Insert the shank of your selected Dremel bit or accessory into the MultiChuck. Tighten the sleeve of the MultiChuck with your hands until it is as tight as you can comfortably make it.

  • Turn the multitool back on or plug it in if it’s a corded model.
  • Simplified Dremel Bit Attachment Systems

    The EZ SpeedClic system is an option that’s now widely available for select Dremel accessories. It consists of a mandrel that inserts into the shaft of the multitool and interchangeable wheels and other accessories that work with the mandrel. Accessories simply click and twist into place, making for easy removal and replacement.

    The Dremel 4200 has another simplified accessory-change system called EZ Change, which may appear on other models in the future. The nose of the 4200 has a pull-down lever on either side. To exchange accessories, simply pull down on both levers, remove the old accessory and position the new accessory. When you release the levers, the accessory is held firmly in place.

    I was building a mount for my custom bobber. My 1/4″ carbide drill bit broke off into 3/4″ plate of steel.

    How do I remove it?

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    5 Answers 5

    If you have a welder.

    Weld a metal rod to the top of the drill bit at a 90 degree angle from the drill bit.

    You can then use the rod as a lever to turn out the drill bit in reverse. You may want to take a hammer and punch and hammer on the end of the drill bit a few times to loosen it.

    How much of that drill bit sticking out?

    IMO opinion, even if it a bit of welding splash gets on the plate, you can grind it off. Looks like a work in progress. If a piece of the bit happens to get welded to the plate, you can grind it a bit to ensure it’s free.

    I’ve used the trick on very large snapped bolts but never a drill bit and am unsure of whether or not the bit can be welded to the rod in my scenario.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    The drill bit has flutes (grooves in the sides). Try driving nails into both flutes, then grab with locking pliers and turn. Lubricate with penetrating oil first to help.

    On second thought- instead of nails, which are generally very soft steel, use tougher steel pins. the easiest of which to find is the shank of a dull drill bit, everyone has some dull 1/8″ bits lying around. You can cut off the fluted part, or just use them as is.

    For go the previous answers! I used to do it all the time as a Big truck Mechanic. use two lite hammers and two punches half the diameter of the drill flutes(grooves on side of the “drill bit”). Ask a friend to operate one set of hammer and punch you the other set. using the drill flutes You both set punch at opposite directions,close to 90degree angle to broken bit point in opposite direction to original drill operation. Now both of you tap punch with hammer gently (hard hit not needed)try to tap as close to same time as you can. While timing isn’t critical it does help! The time you take to gather the tools will take longer than removing the bit! It will screw out backward in about 30 seconds to one and a half minutes. It works absolutely every time. “CB”handle is “CookieMonster”just relax and enjoy the info.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit However, drill chucks can be difficult to remove for a number reasons that require an extra trick or two to get the job done. The steps and suggestions below explain how to remove keyless drill chucks from drills with broken gear boxes. We also explain how to remove sticky chuck screws.
    See this article’s repair video for a professional demonstration! How to Separate a Chuck Collar from a Drill Chuck
    Our example drill in this article came into the shop with its gearbox already broken. In cases like these, drill chucks usually come off the drill with the arbor shaft and chuck collar still attached to the chuck. The first step to remove the chuck then is to first take its collar off.
    1. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring.

    Getting that snap ring out will allow the chuck collar to pop off when we press it off of the chuck.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    2. Press the chuck out with a shop press.

    Position the drill chuck collar between clam shells for support, align a punch on the chuck’s arbor shaft, and then press it out.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Pressing the arbor shaft will take the drill chuck with it, leaving the chuck’s lower collar behind. [Back to top]
    How to Remove a Drill Chuck from its Arbor Shaft
    With its collar removed, it’s now time to separate the drill chuck from its arbor shaft. 1. Flatten the arbor shaft with a grinder and grinding wheel.

    The arbor shaft must be placed into a vise in order to remove the chuck screw. The shaft will have to be made flat on at least two sides to accommodate the vise.

    Be careful to avoid touching the arbor shaft while it is still hot.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    2. Secure the flattened chuck spindle in a vise and unscrew the chuck screw.

    Remember that chuck screws are reverse threaded, so you must turn them in the direction of the drill’s forward position.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Because chuck screws are usually held into position with loctite, it often takes a lot of force to turn them.

    3. Tighten a large Allen key into the chuck.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    4. Turn the Allen key to spin the chuck off the arbor shaft.

    Turn the Allen key in the direction of the drill’s forward rotation (like the chuck screw).

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Unscrewing the chuck is easy with the help of a “cheater bar.” [Back to top] Tips to Remove a Stuck Chuck Screw
    Chuck screws can be very difficult to unscrew every now and then. This usually happens when manufacturers use too much loctite to affix it to the drill’s arbor shaft. Follow the professional repair tips below for to remove a stuck chuck screw. Tip #1- Heat the arbor shaft.

    Use a blowtorch on the arbor shaft to loosen up the loctite on the chuck screw. This is the best way to loosen the screw in most cases.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Really tough chuck screws may require more than one heating.

    Tip #2- Use a wrench for leverage.

    If the screwdriver you’re using to turn the chuck screw has a square shaft, you can attach a small wrench to it for some extra leverage.

    How to Remove a Drill BitTip #3- Strike the chuck screw with a screwdriver and hammer.

    Carefully position your screwdriver on the chuck screw and gently strike its end with a hammer to loosen the screw’s loctite bond.

    ABOUT THE AUTHOR

    Mike Parker

    Grout is a cementitious building material that is used to fill gaps between tiles. It can be either sanded or unsanded, depending on the width of the gap. Grout provides a watertight seal and adds a finished appearance to the job. Occasionally you may need to replace a tile, which means you will have to remove the surrounding grout. You can do this with either a hand tool or a power tool with a specially designed drill bit.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Masonry Bits

    If you have to drill into a damaged ceramic tile in order to remove it, consider using a masonry bit. First scrape away the surrounding grout with a grout saw. Attach a 3/16-inch masonry bit to a power drill and drill six to nine holes in a series directly into the tile. Use a hammer and masonry chisel to carefully chisel out the old tile.

    Roto-Zip Tool and Bits

    You can remove grout with a Roto-zip tool fitted with a specially designed grout removal bit. Roto-zip grout removal bits come in different sizes, including 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch bits, to handle wide or narrow grout lines. These bits are diamond-tipped.

    Rotary Tool Bits

    Grout removal kits are available for rotary tools, such as a Dremel. These kits typically acommodate either corded or cordless rotary tools and include grout removal bits and guides. The tool guides allow you to adjust the depth of the cut while keeping the cutting angle uniform. Guides also help keep the bit in the center of the grout line to prevent damage to the adjoining tiles.

    Considerations

    Bits that are designed for a Roto-zip or rotary tools are not designed for and should not be used with a standard power drill. If you do not have access to one of these tools, it is still possible to remove the grout around your tiles with basic hand tools. Position a thin chisel or flat head screwdriver on the grout at a 45-degree angle and tap it lightly with a hammer. This method can be tedious and time-consuming; but if you are careful, you can remove the old grout without chipping the surrounding tiles.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    If broken drills and service bills are boring holes in your budget; it’s time to face the fix. Whether you are a master craftsman or an occasional drill-seeker, eReplacementParts.com provides the parts, procedures and facts you need to fearlessly fix what fails you.

    The chuck on a cordless drill takes a lot of punishment. Over time, it will need to be replaced. Common problems include a chuck that no longer opens or closes smoothly. Or occasionally, one of the jaws will break and the chuck will not secure a drill bit. Fortunately, replacing the chuck on a cordless drill is very easy to do and this article will show you how.

    Let’s get started.

    REMOVING THE CHUCK [top] 1. Remove the battery from the drill.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit2. Switch the transmission to the lowest setting.

    Slide the gear selector switch to the lowest setting.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit 3. Set the clutch to the “Drill” setting.

    Rotate the clutch assembly to the “Drill” setting.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit4. Remove the chuck retaining screw.

    Open the chuck to the widest position.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Use a Phillip’s screwdriver to loosen the retaining screw. The screw is reverse-threaded (requiring clockwise rotation to loosen).

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Remove the screw from the chuck assembly.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    5. Remove the chuck from the drill.

    Insert the short end of a large Allen wrench (as large as the chuck will accommodate) into the chuck assembly.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Secure the Allen wrench in the chuck.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Position the drill on a surface that allows the chuck (and Allen wrench) to overhang the edge.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    SPECIFIX: The next step involves striking the Allen wrench with a rubber mallet to loosen the chuck assembly. Before proceeding to the next step, make certain that the drill is positioned to ensure that the blow from the mallet rotates the assembly in a counter-clockwise direction. Striking the wrench in the wrong direction will tighten (and possibly damage) the assembly.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    While securely holding the drill against the flat work surface, strike the exposed end of the Allen wrench with a rubber mallet. This should loosen the chuck assembly. (This step may require multiple attempts).

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Continue to rotate (unscrew) the chuck assembly by hand until it disengages the spindle.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Remove the chuck assembly from the drill.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    INSTALLING THE NEW CHUCK [top] 6. Install the chuck.

    Thread the new chuck assembly onto the spindle.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Secure the chuck assembly as tightly as possible (by hand).

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Open the chuck to accept the retaining screw.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Install the retaining screw.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Secure the screw with a Phillip’s screwdriver. The screw is reverse-threaded (requiring counterclockwise rotation to secure).

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    As you just learned, fixing things yourself means more drilling with less billing. Hopefully, this article has helped restore your ability to drill holes without replacing your whole drill. And that’s just the tip of the bit. Our Follow-and-Fix field guides can help expand your skills far beyond drills; empowering you to face power tool problems as they arise and to fearlessly fix whatever fails you. Find your next fix here. [top]

    Question: How many ways to remove a recessed broken drill bit from a carburetor? Tip?

    About (20) years ago, I bought an inexpensive “As Is” Model B Zenith carburetor half, (which in the e-bay photo ad), did not indicate the long exposed brass Power Jet Tube protruding from this carburetor half.

    After receiving it in the mail, I saw where the hole in the carburetor half for the Power Jet Tube was plugged with a broken drill bit tightly lodged in it with this drill bit’s exposed end recessed about 1/8″ below the flat gasket surface, so I just set it aside for another day.

    The other day I ran across this carburetor half and even though the lodged drill bit would not move, I was able to clear this carburetor passageway hole.

    Just wondering how many specific different tools or unique methods could be suggested to clear a lodged recessed broken drill bit in a carburetor Power Jet Tube passageway hole in a Model B Zenith carburetor?

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    Yep, I used them in high school shop class. Best I can recall, they were called “drill extractors”.

    I just remembered that this was “Tap Extractors”, so I don’t know if they’d work for drill bits.

    Comment

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    I had never heard of the tool Larry’s mentions in response No. 7; but after looking at this recessed broken + 1/8-in. drill bit, below is a list of what I thought:

    1. We all witness drill bits getting jammed in wood or metal to where they slip in a tightened chuck. When drill bits cannot be pulled upwards and out one drill bit removal solution is: Set drill in reverse to where bit is not trying to cut deeper; but allow this bit to rise upwards and back out of this hole.

    2. with further observation, one can notice that drill bits have lands and grooves like rifling in a rifle barrel to where for example, the drill bit at noon and 6:00 a.m. fits tightly in an opening; however, at 9:00 a.m. and 3:00 a.m. this drill bit has openings.

    3. Just sat there thinking, (does this sound familiar to Model A owners?), if only I had something metal to insert into the 9:00 a.m. and 3:00 a.m. openings and try to rotate this small drill bit backwards. (Usually it is always the small drill bits that break; always good to have several small drill bits at hand.)

    4. First tried inserting and twisting two (2) small wire brads with a pair of pliers where both were inserted vertically at 90 degrees; however, the very tops of both wire brads separated away from top center after twisting and getting bent.

    5. Even thought of grinding a needle nose pliers to where they would fit in these openings and could be driven into these two (2) 9:00 a.m/3:00 p.m. openings; however, if these small hard, carbon steel plier tips sheared off like that of this jammed carbon steel drill bit . what next?

    6. In trying to think what else do I have for trying to turn, back out, and loosening this tiny drill bit. First Model A lightening bolt thought: I got my old large box of cotter pins to select the largest size cotter pin that could be inserted into these 9/3 openings. Found one . Remembering top separation of wire brads in paragraph (4.) above, I cut off some of the bottom parts of the two (2) long legs off of the cotter pin as short as possible rather than allowing these long legs of the cotter pin to be too long and try to bend away from center.

    7. Next, inserted cotter pin, sprayed WD-40, turned backwards with a large pliers to where the bit moved about (1/8) turn and stopped. Turned cotter pin back in other direction, backed off again to where it turned about (1/2) turn. After about (3/4) turn, cotter pin looked shabby, so I fitted another clipped, short type of new cotter pin.

    8. After acquiring 360 degree drill bit rotation, the drill bit would not fall out of this hole. First tried tightly clamping a cotter pin on same with a pliers and pulling; but the cotter pin would slip off of the drill bit.

    9. Next, a brain storm suddenly arose, (the Model A type accompanied by loud thunder and fierce lightening bolts), usually witnessed at similar times by many thinking Model A owners such as: First pushed drill bit downwards with the head of a wire brad, to where the small drill bit was recessed about +1/8-in. Next applied (5) stacked (1/2″) diameter very powerful Home Depot “Earth Magnets” to where I heard this loud ferocious “click”. Then, after about the fourth “click”, the drill bit was attached to these (5) powerful “Earth Magnets” .

    10. This same homemade device could also possibly work for extracting small taps.

    Just hope sharing this simple Model A brain storm experience can help someone, some day, to avoid discarding non-replaceable vintage Model A or Model B parts thought to be ruined by a tightly lodged small broken drill bit or small broken tap.

    Written by: Lisa Wampler

    Written on: July 14, 2020

    All Cordless Black & Decker hand drills use a keyless chuck system to clamp drill bits. Most corded Black & Decker hand drills use a key that engages the splines on the chuck. Obviously with one style being keyed and one being keyless the process to remove a Black & Decker drill bit is entirely different for each.

    Locate the key connected to the cord of your Black & Decker hand drill. The tip of the key has a knob on it surrounded by gear teeth. On the end of the key, which is black, is connected to the cord and has a metal bar that creates a T-handle.

    Locate the round hole on the side of the chuck. The hole could be on any side of the chuck since it rotates around the chuck when you turn on the drill. The hole is located in front of the gear teeth on the chuck.

    • All Cordless Black & Decker hand drills use a keyless chuck system to clamp drill bits.
    • Most corded Black & Decker hand drills use a key that engages the splines on the chuck.

    Place the knob on the key into the hole on the chuck and mesh the gear teeth on the key with the gear teeth on the chuck.

    Turn the T-handle counterclockwise with one hand while you hold the hand drill steady in the other hand. This will loosen the chuck so you can pull out the drill bit.

    Locate the directional switch just above the trigger on the hand drill and set it to counterclockwise.

    Hold the drill tight with one hand and grasp the black sleeve on the keyless chuck with the other hand. The keyless chuck holds the drill bit.

    Press the trigger on the drill and quickly let off the trigger. Repeat this to give the cordless drill several short bursts of power. Hold on to the sleeve of the keyless chuck as you do this. Stop when the chuck starts to open up. If you just pull on the trigger, you risk the chuck opening all the way and the drill bit flying out.

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    I’m sure removing a broken drill bit is something they teach you in tradeschool quite early, and I’m sure it’s a topic that’s been beaten to death on this board, but I still thought I’d ask:

    I was drilling 6061-T6 1/2″ aluminum plate yesterday, in a stack, so the cut was 1″ in depth. I was using a crappy 1/8″ drillbit with a bad temper in the tip and a drill chuck with lots of runout. Well, as one can predict, the bit broke, and now I have a vital hole jammed with drill bit remnants.

    Here’s my problem: I don’t have the money, patience, or material to make another replacement part for the one holding the broken bit (part of being a high school student and a HSM). I can’t put the hole in another spot. I can’t heat the piece up enough to kill the temper of the fragment of the bit, because the’ll kill the vital temper of the aluminum. I tried punching out the fragments with a nail set. it worked on one, and on the other I now have a hardened fragment of nail set stuck in the aluminum aswell. I tried soaking the piece in boiling water so as to heat it so it’d expand and I could remove the parts witha center punch. No dice.

    Any suggestions? And what other techniques are out there for bit removal? I’ve already tried my strongest neodymium magnets, by the way.

    Place a 1/8″ dowel pin in your good drill chuck. Lower the pin and clamp it in the vise. Clamp the vise to the table. Release the chuck and raise it up. You now have a pin aligned with the chuck.

    Now, hopefully you’ve got a wee bit of round hole available in your stack of parts. Turn the stack over, and slide the stack down onto the dowel pin held in the vise. Now, put a drill in the chuck and drill through from the back. Knock out the old pieces.

    That is just a general procedure. You will need to take appropriate measures to keep the part level and square to the drill, and to protect yourself from possible amputation by positioning the stock against a stop.

    We were discussing a method to chemical corrode taps out a few days ago. No reason it wouldn’t work on a drill bit that’s stuck. Given that its aluminium, you might be lucky.

    You can drill right through HSS with a solid carbide spade drill, or even a centercutting endmill. Both of which, I might add, are available in 1/8″. If you ruin the hole when drilling thru the HSS, simply oversize it and turn a plug with an interference fit of .0005″ or so and drive it in, milling it flush later and then re-drill. HuFlung’s method sounds like a winner for a quick alignment.

    Halco.
    If I could just add, drilling 1/8” dia thru 1” of aluminium. (8 Times diameter), might have been ambitious with a less than stellar set up. Or with out frequent pecking to clear the flutes. You could go, just past your Ѕ” depth, so that it spots the second plate. – Regards Phil.

    A possibility is to C-clamp the stack together to keep the relative position. Small clamps, several of them.

    Pickup the same location from the other side of the stack. may have to use some tall parallels to set it up the same.

    Drill say a 1/16″ hole on the same location from the other side.

    Drive out the 1/8″ bit remnant with a pin punch. you may have to modify the 1/16″ to whatever pin size you have, a dowel pin would also be a good choice IMHO.

    If you so choose, you can go back to the original side and continue drilling, however the hole may follow the 1/16″ pilot hole. A 1/8″ endmill may be more rigid to get the hole back thoroughly straight again.

    Oh, yeah, i forgot to mention this is the first of 3 alignment holes, so i seperated the stack already. i got the bit out of one hole, since i had the part indexed in the vise i just useed a new bit and tried to drill it out.

    I was about 1/8″ from completing the hole when the bit shattered. Yes, i say shattered because when the piece that I did get out came out, it was not 1 piece but 5 or 6. I was pecking quite a bit near the end.

    I don’t really wanna go for a chemical means of tap removal, being as I don’t really have the capability to deal with strong acids in my shop right now.

    I tried driving out the bit with a few dowel pins, they just broke.

    Did I hear I need a solid carbide endmill or a hss one? I only have a cheap chinese 1/8″ endmill someone gave me a while back. it is sharp, though. I already broke two 3/16″ EM’s from that same factory, so I’m not very satisfied by the quality of them.

    Roll pins are typically used in place of bolts to hold two pieces of metal together. The roll pin is generally a solid piece of metal that fits tightly into a machined hole. At times these pins will have to be removed to repair machinery. The pin can be difficult to extract because of various circumstances.

    A Simple Drift Pin Punch

    In the easiest of all extractions there will be two ends of the roll pin exposed. In these cases, a small diameter drift pin punch can be employed. The diameter of the drift punch must be smaller than the hole in which the roll pin is placed. Caution must be exercised so as not to flatten the end of the roll pins as it is extracted. By using a small, ball-peen hammer and striking with short strokes, most roll pins can be pushed from the placement using a drift pin punch.

    Drill and Tap

    Small roll pins may be wedged tightly into place or there is no access from the backside of the hole. In such cases, the center of the roll pin may have to be drilled out with a carbide drill bit. Apply plenty of penetrating oil while you drill to act as a coolant. The center hole of the pin is then tapped so a bolt can be inserted. The bolt is then used to pull the pin from the hole. If the pin is too hard to tap, use a hardened, self-tapping screw. Drive the screw into place with a screwdriver. A slide hammer may have to be used to “knock” the bolt and pin assembly from the precision hole. You may have to modify the end of the slide hammer to accommodate the size of bolt or screw that was threaded into the center of the roll pin. Allow some time for the oil to soak through the sides of the roll pin and into the hole. The lubricant may help loosen the stuck roll pin before extraction with the slide hammer.

    Drill Out

    Some roll pins may be so tight or rusted inside the hole that the only alternative is to completely remove the pin by drilling it out with a carbide bit. Caution must be exercised as the drill bit may attempt to wander off the center of the pin. This can cause a mis-centered or an oblong hole. Once the pin is removed, the hole can be re-drilled with a slightly larger bit. A larger roll pin must be inserted after the repairs are made.

    I was drilling a hole outside my house when the drill bit broke in half and some of it has got stuck inside the hole. The hole is probably about 18mm wide.

    Is there any creative way of getting the drill bit out without pushing it deeper into the hole?

    I thought maybe getting a wooden stick, putting some super glue on the end and pressing it against the drill bit until it dries then slowly pull it out, could that work?

    Sorry, I should have made it clear the hole is about 18mm but the drill bit is much smaller. I was gradually widening the hole, big enough to get a wall plug hammered in there.

    8 Answers

    What size a wallplug were you going to use and obviously from what you are saying the drill is not stuck fast you could always try a piece of stiff wire bent in the shape of a small hook at the end and annoy the drill till it comes out, and now I sure you will agree it is always better to get the proper tool for the job as improvisations result in disaster more times than not ,ps super glue does not stick to wood and the job may not be suitable to be repositioned so just persevere,GOOD LUCK

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Wow . did you really manage to break an 18mm drill. You deserve a prize for managing that! There isn’t an easy way to get the broken drill out, sorry. I’d be surprised if your ‘glue and stick’ idea worked because the drill is a tight fit and will be held in place by the material it has removed. You know how hard they can be to pull out even when they are still intact, right? To give it more chance of success, blow all the dust out of the hole before you insert the stick.

    I am a firm believer in the principle that, to find the easiest solution, give the problem to the laziest person. Hello, pleased to meet you . I am Britword. 🙂

    The easiest solution is to leave the broken drill where it is, fill the hole and forget it. If you absolutely HAVE to have holes there to support something, move the thing a little and drill new holes. That will be a lot easier than trying to remove a broken drill.

    If you feel you must remove the broken drill and can measure with extreme accuracy, you could try drilling from the other side of the wall until you meet the drill and then to push it out. It is not something I’d try.

    If the original hole will be hidden behind something and if the broken drill really had to be removed, I might enlarge the opening of the hole with a cold chisel until I could grab the broken drill with a pair of pliers. Then, I’d have to make good with something structurally sound in order to be able to use re-use the original hole.

    On balance, my friend, I’d leave the broken drill where it was if I possibly could and revise my plans slightly to compensate.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Loose nut, stuck bit

    Arm-wrestle it free
    If you’ve loosened the collet nut but the bit won’t release, apply a few drops of penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, and let it seep into the collet around the bit shank. Next, hold the spindle with a wrench (or spindle lock, if so equipped). Then, with a thick work glove on your other hand, grab the bit and twist back and forth to free it as shown in the above.

    Tap in to pop it out
    If that doesn’t work the bit loose, remove the bearing and washer from the end (if so equipped). With the router standing base-up on a solid surface, hold a hardwood scrap against the bit end (to avoid damaging the threads) and tap it lightly with a mallet or hammer. Although driving it deeper into the collet seems counterproductive, a small amount of movement just might free the bit. If that doesn’t loosen the bit, strike the block a little harder as shown in photo below.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Stuck nut

    Bust the nut loose
    If you can’t even loosen the collet nut, then support it against a piece of hardwood and tap it lightly with a hammer, as shown below. Rotate the nut and tap each face of the nut. Then break it loose with the router wrenches.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Torch it
    Still stuck? Then it’s time to bring the heat. Use a small propane torch to heat the collet and bit shank, as shown below. Rotate the router to spread the heat evenly around the shank. Don’t get it red-hot, and avoid directing flame toward the router—you don’t want to damage the seals around the spindle bearings. After heating it for a short time, go back to your glove and wrench and twist the bit loose. Repeat until the bit works free.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Where there’s a problem, there’s a prevention
    We spoke to router specialists with several tool manufacturers to get their input on this subject. They shared the following pointers for avoiding stuck bits in the first place.

    Problem: Giving up when the nut tightens up after initially loosening
    Prevention: Although it might sound funny if you’re familiar with self-releasing collets, these experts tell us they’ve helped countless customers who simply needed to continue loosening their collets after feeling them initially loosen. Self-releasing collets—usually identifiable by a snap ring or other device that holds the collet and nut together—have two “break” points: the initial one, and then about two turns later another that releases the bit.

    Problem: Dirty collet
    Prevention: Blow out the collet regularly with a blast of compressed air. If needed, clean the collet and threads with a soft brush and mineral spirits. (For a self-releasing collet, you might have to remove the snap ring to disassemble it.)

    Problem: Dirty bit shanks
    Prevention: Wipe router bit shanks with a cloth and mineral spirits; lightly sand with 320-grit abrasive to remove rust or tough grime.

    Problem: Overtightened nut
    Prevention: You don’t need to tighten a collet nut as much as you would bolts while assembling a machine, such as a tablesaw. Instead, tighten the nut only about one-eighth of a turn after it snugs up.

    Problem: Bottomed-out bit
    Prevention: When installing a bit in the collet, push it to the bottom, and then pull it back up about 1 ⁄ 8 ” before tightening. This gives the collet some room to expand downward while compressing a firm grip on the shank.

    Problem: Leaving bits in a router too long
    Prevention: If you’re not using a bit and it’s been in the collet more than a few days, remove it from your router. Humidity can cause rust even inside a collet, and that can seize a bit shank inside the collet.

    I have a lovely Challenge J0 Paper Drill from the 1970’s. It runs perfectly and I have it all ready to use. However, I can not figure out how to change the drill bits that came with the machine. I have looked online, and the PDF Challenge has available says nothing about how to change the drill bits.

    Can anyone give me help with this? Thanks!!

    Log in to reply 9 replies so far

    • mephits
    • on 22 Oct 13 (12:04)

    I’m not familiar with this specific model, but assuming it’s like every other Challenge drill I’ve ever seen, the bit should be a taper-mount. That means it’s a friction fit into a tapered socket at the base of the spindle. There should be an opening in the spindle just above the drill bit. You should be able to see the top of the bit’s taper in this hole. You insert your drill drift into this hole and lift up to pop the bit out. The drift will lever against the top of the hole on the near side and the top of the drill bit’s taper at the far side. The drill drift should look like a steel rod with one end cut off at an angle. If you don’t have the machine’s original drill drift, any hardened taper pin like a pin punch or drift pin should work. If the bit hasn’t been removed in a long time, it may require some force to lever the bit out.

    • NancyT
    • on 22 Oct 13 (14:52)

    Thank you so much for your information. My drill bits are the same, but there is a slight coating of rust on the socket and the bit spindle. I have applied some 3 in 1 oil to try and give it some lubrication. I need to order the drill drift today. I will give this a try as soon as it arrives. Thanks again for the help. Hooray for Briar Press and all the helpful members!

    • dickg
    • on 22 Oct 13 (15:28)

    I have used a small screw driver for years, you really don’t need a special tool.

    • chuck the printer
    • on 23 Oct 13 (11:53)
    • Updated 23 Oct 13 (11:54)

    you might go to a hardware store and purchase a starter punch or a small drift, this will work the same as a paper drill drift and easier to get, buy one with a tip around 3/16 in diameter. you might need to tap the drift with a small hammer and pull up at the same time. not only rust maybe holding it in but also wax a more than common bit lubricant.

    • NancyT
    • on 23 Oct 13 (11:56)

    Hi Chuck
    Did you mean I should use wax instead of oil? I will head to the hardware store this afternoon.

    Thanks for the help!
    Nancy

    • NancyT
    • on 23 Oct 13 (11:56)

    Hi Chuck
    Did you mean I should use wax instead of oil? I will head to the hardware store this afternoon.

    Thanks for the help!
    Nancy

    • NancyT
    • on 23 Oct 13 (11:56)

    Hi Chuck
    Did you mean I should use wax instead of oil? I will head to the hardware store this afternoon.

    Thanks for the help!
    Nancy

    • chuck the printer
    • on 23 Oct 13 (12:13)
    • Updated 23 Oct 13 (12:14)

    The answer to all three is still NO , stick with oil to loosen the bits or WD 40, wax is used as a bit lubricant when drilling paper.

    • NancyT
    • on 23 Oct 13 (13:04)

    I have no idea why that posted three times!! Ghost in the machine! Thanks. I thought that was the case.

    Handling a drill requires some techniques. Putting too much pressure while using it can spell trouble. Pressure can break the drill bit. That is definitely going to stop your maintenance work or your project. You should also strive to keep your drilling more perpendicular. Maintain an upward position until you finish your task. Changing the angle of your drill can readily break the drill bit.

    But don’t burden yourself. Removing a broken drill bit is quite simple. All you have to do is follow these instructions:

    • Pulling out a drill bit that protrudes from the surface. This is a good scenario. Consider yourself lucky. Just harden the drill bit and grab it. Use a pair of locking pliers. You can also form another bolt head.
    • Look for a flat washer. Get the one that has a similar hole size with your broken drill bit. A smaller size is suitable, too. Place the washer closer to the broken drill bit. However, if the broken drill bit is under the surface, use your ball peen hammer so you can just “dish out” the washer. That should allow you to have a fit close to the broken drill bit. Continue by welding the washer to the broken drill bit. After you have secured the washer to the broken drill bit, get a nut. Weld it to the washer. Then, get your reliable wrench and pull it out.

    Of course, after handling this predicament, your next job is to learn how to avoid breaking your other drill bits. You can save yourself from further trouble by using anti-seize on your remaining drill bits. Do it before you proceed in installing them.

    I was drilling a hole outside my house when the drill bit broke in half and some of it has got stuck inside the hole. The hole is probably about 18mm wide.

    Is there any creative way of getting the drill bit out without pushing it deeper into the hole?

    I thought maybe getting a wooden stick, putting some super glue on the end and pressing it against the drill bit until it dries then slowly pull it out, could that work?

    Sorry, I should have made it clear the hole is about 18mm but the drill bit is much smaller. I was gradually widening the hole, big enough to get a wall plug hammered in there.

    8 Answers

    What size a wallplug were you going to use and obviously from what you are saying the drill is not stuck fast you could always try a piece of stiff wire bent in the shape of a small hook at the end and annoy the drill till it comes out, and now I sure you will agree it is always better to get the proper tool for the job as improvisations result in disaster more times than not ,ps super glue does not stick to wood and the job may not be suitable to be repositioned so just persevere,GOOD LUCK

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Wow . did you really manage to break an 18mm drill. You deserve a prize for managing that! There isn’t an easy way to get the broken drill out, sorry. I’d be surprised if your ‘glue and stick’ idea worked because the drill is a tight fit and will be held in place by the material it has removed. You know how hard they can be to pull out even when they are still intact, right? To give it more chance of success, blow all the dust out of the hole before you insert the stick.

    I am a firm believer in the principle that, to find the easiest solution, give the problem to the laziest person. Hello, pleased to meet you . I am Britword. 🙂

    The easiest solution is to leave the broken drill where it is, fill the hole and forget it. If you absolutely HAVE to have holes there to support something, move the thing a little and drill new holes. That will be a lot easier than trying to remove a broken drill.

    If you feel you must remove the broken drill and can measure with extreme accuracy, you could try drilling from the other side of the wall until you meet the drill and then to push it out. It is not something I’d try.

    If the original hole will be hidden behind something and if the broken drill really had to be removed, I might enlarge the opening of the hole with a cold chisel until I could grab the broken drill with a pair of pliers. Then, I’d have to make good with something structurally sound in order to be able to use re-use the original hole.

    On balance, my friend, I’d leave the broken drill where it was if I possibly could and revise my plans slightly to compensate.

    ABOUT THE AUTHOR

    C.L. Rease

    One method of removing tree stumps does not require an expensive stump grinder or hours of back-breaking labor. Drilling multiple holes in a tree stump allows you to increase the rate a tree stump will rot. Over time, you will be able to remove the rotted tree stump without excessive digging. Using the proper drill bit allows you to drill effortlessly into the tree stump. Correctly drilling holes in a tree stump is the most important step in affordably removing it.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Things You’ll Need

    1-inch spade bit

    Chemical stump remover

    Step 1

    Cut the stump close to the ground with a chainsaw. Do not allow the chain of the saw to contact the dirt surrounding the stump.

    Step 2

    Slide the end of a 1-inch spade bit in a bit extension. Tighten the bit extension with the tool included with the extension. Secure the end of the bit extension in a drill motor.

    Step 3

    Drill a 3- to 4-inch-deep hole within 2 inches of the bark of the tree stump. Repeat the process until you have at least one hole every 4 inches around the circumference of the stump. Drill three to five holes at a 45-degree angle near the center of the stump.

    Step 4

    Pour chemical stump remover into each hole. Stop pouring when the hole is filled with the stump remover.

    Step 5

    Allow the chemical stump remover to sit in the stump for four to six weeks.

    Add additional chemical stump remover to the drilled holes once a week to hasten the rotting process.

    Warning

    Wear eye protection when cutting and drilling a tree stump. Wear latex gloves when handling the chemical stump remover.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Sometimes renovations are paramount; you would one day have to stop ignoring those doors with a deadbolt lock that would never open. It could be that you can no longer find their keys or you may be having a damaged deadbolt lock.

    Deadbolt locks are made with some tumbler pins to lock and unlock the bolt, so your first thought would be to pick the lock. If that has failed, you would be left with the last option, which is to drill out the deadbolt. One thing you should know is that when you drill the lock, you destroy it by breaking the tumbler pins.

    So, how do you drill out a deadbolt?

    Instead of hiring an expensive handyman for this, we have a few steps that can guide you to perfectly lose your deadbolt lock and gain access to those abandoned parts of your home.

    Observe the lock

    It is best to be sure of the exact problem you are dealing with before you proceed. After you have tried to pick the lock and you can’t get through, you should inspect the door to confirm that the difficulty you are facing is with the lock and not another locking mechanism.

    If your lock is covered with paint, use a utility knife to scratch it off and reveal the edge of the keyhole and make a double check. Also, disable any alarm connected to the lock.

    Get the right tools

    Projects like this could discourage even a DIY hobbyist, but you should stay encouraged, there is a way out. It would be a difficult task to get through your lock by hand or with any crude tool, and since you are using a primitive method, the first thing you need is a variable speed power drill (you can buy DEWALT DWD210G on Amazon.com).

    You would also need a drill bit that would match the size of the lock, so you should rather get several sizes of bit drills so that you can try them and select the appropriate bit drill for the deadbolt lock.

    Insert your bit drill

    Insert a bit drill into your tool, most preferably a 1/8 inches bit. This size is small enough to drill out the tumbler pins neatly, so you can easily turn the lock using a screwdriver rather than using a larger drill to dismantle the whole thing. If you don’t have a 1/8 inches bit, you can use the next closest size.

    Make the necessary preparations

    How to Remove a Drill BitSomething else you should do is apply spray lubricants on the drill bits you are using, inside the deadbolt, and on the outer edges of the lock to allow the bit have a smoother run and also to keep friction from damaging it.

    When you lubricate every part of the lock, it might become too slippery to work on, so you should use a hammer to make a small puncture that would guide the drill bit. You may decide to drill the center of the lock, but it would be neater to rather dig through the point directly above the keyhole, so make the puncture there.

    Drill Slowly

    After you have gone through all the above steps, you can now make use of the drill. In the hole you have made, place the tip of the drill bit, then set it at a horizontal level, and gently apply pressure on the trigger, don’t pull the trigger too fast because it can strip the screws of the drill bit.

    Carefully monitor the drilling process and note when the drill bit is facing difficulties, so you can take a pause and lubricate the bit with water or oil lubricant. At this point, maintain the drill at an angle to keep it from coming in contact with other unnecessary metals while you slowly drill the deadbolt.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Having an accurate drill press at your disposal is one of the key advantages that fine woodworkers have over carpenters and other craftsmen who must carry tools to the job site. Not only can the drill press fashion large, clean holes more efficiently, safely, and with far less physical effort than a drill, but the drill press also excels at other useful tasks, such as boring long spindle holes or serving as a spindle sander for sanding curved cuts created with a jigsaw or a band saw.

    Additionally, a drill press can handle bits that are far larger and more precise than those typically used with portable drills. For example, it’s not advisable to use a Forstner bit to cut a flat-bottomed hole using a hand-operated drill, but the drill press can handle the job effortlessly.

    But In order to perform any of these tasks, the drill press’s chuck—the clamping head that holds and turns the drill bits—must be in good working order. If the chuck is not gripping the bit securely or if it is stiff or out of alignment, your drill press will not operate properly, and the holes you drill will not be as precise.

    How a Drill Press Chuck Works

    The chuck of the drill press is typically a three-jawed clamp that tightens evenly and securely around the shank of a drill bit. Most drill press chucks are at least 1/2-inch in size (the chuck size indicates the maximum diameter of the shank it will accept), and many are 3/4 inch. The chuck is tightened by a geared wrench, called a chuck key. To install a bit, you merely insert the shank of a bit into the chuck and hand-tighten the collar until the jaws evenly and securely hold the bit, then insert the tip of the chuck key into one of the holes on the chuck above the collar, aligning the gears on the key with the gears on the chuck. Rotate the chuck key clockwise to tighten the chuck, or counter-clockwise to loosen the chuck’s grip on the bit.

    Servicing the chuck is often a simple matter of cleaning it while it is still in place, but once a year or so it is a good idea to remove it entirely for a deep cleaning, then reinstall it. A tool that has seen heavy use over a period of years may require a new chuck.

    Tools and Supplies You Will Need

    • Air compressor or can of compressed air
    • Clean cloths
    • Drying lubricant
    • Eye protection
    • Allen wrenches
    • Mallet (if needed)
    • Open-end wrenches (if needed)
    • Replacement chuck (if needed)

    Instructions

    Clean the Chuck

    To clean your chuck, first disconnect the power cable from the outlet for safety. Then remove any bit in the chuck, and rotate the collar so that the jaws are fully extended. Wipe the chuck clean with a dry, lint-free cloth. Next, retract the jaws completely and blow any sawdust out from within the jaw opening using compressed air. This will blow out any loose sawdust or grime from within the jaws of the chuck.

    TIP: When using an air nozzle to blow out any loose particles, wear a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes from any flying debris.

    Lubricate the Chuck

    After cleaning the chuck inside and out, lubricate it by spraying a small amount of a quality drying lubricant (such as Boeshield T-9) into the open jaws of the chuck. Rotate the collar, extending and retracting the jaws a couple of times until the lubricant is worked into the mechanism, then wipe away the excess.

    If this simple cleaning and lubrication routine does not restore the chuck to good operating condition, continue by removing the chuck for a more thorough cleaning.

    Remove the Chuck

    On most hand-held drills, the chucks are removed by loosening a set screw inside the open jaws of the chuck, but with a drill press, the chuck has a tapered shaft that is pressure-fit within the spindle.

    To begin removal, press the tool’s handle to lower the quill and chuck as far as it will go, then rotate the quill lock to hold the mechanism in the lowered position.

    Next, look for a large vertical slot within the shaft of the quill. If you find this slot, insert a chuck removal key and tap the end with a mallet to knock the chuck out of the quill spindle.

    If your chuck does not have a removal key and corresponding slot, then raise the quill until the top edge of the chuck collar is about 1/2-inch below the drill housing, and tighten the quill lock to secure the quill. Then, slide the mouth of a large open-end wrench over the quill spindle just above the chuck collar. Push up firmly on the large wrench to pry the chuck out of the quill spindle.

    Clean the Chuck

    With the chuck removed, wipe down the tapered shaft of the chuck with a dry, lint-free cloth. Then blow out the opening at the bottom of the quill spindle with compressed air to remove any grime or sawdust.

    If the chuck is badly worn or damaged, you will need to buy a replacement. If it appears to be in good condition after cleaning, it can be reinstalled.

    Install the Chuck

    To replace or re-install a chuck, raise the quill to the highest position and tighten the quill lock to secure the spindle. Rotate the drill press table out of the way so that it will not interfere with the installation of the chuck.

    Next, slide the tapered chuck shank into the quill spindle. Rotate the chuck slightly by hand until the square head at the top of the shank fits into the receptacle within the quill spindle. Retract the jaws fully, and smack the bottom of the chuck one time firmly with a mallet to seat the shank of the chuck into the quill spindle.

    Rotate the chuck collar to check the operation of the chuck, then plug in the motor and insert a drill bit into the chuck and make a couple of test bores to ensure that the reinstalled chuck is functioning properly.

    I’m sure that we have all run into problems at some point trying to remove that pesky threaded screw that seems impossible to get out! But what are the best ways to do this?

    Stripped screws are a nightmare and try as you might, some just don’t want to come out. That’s when frustration takes over and before you know it, that once crosshead shape has turned into a big fat ‘O’.

    There are plenty of great ideas out there, in fact too many to mention, and there is no one method that works on all screws. However, I have picked 6 techniques that I thought might be useful to share, using everything from an elastic band to an impact driver!

    So, say screw it and get that thing out of there!!

    1. Using a manual screwdriver

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    If you’re having trouble with your screwdriver bit slipping against the screw head try this simple method. Start by using a hammer to tap the screwdriver down, lodging it firmly into the screw head. This should provide the extra grip you need to twist the fastener, especially if it’s made of soft metal. If that doesn’t work, to get a better grip on the screw, cover it with a rubber band or a small piece of duct tape with the adhesive side against the screw head, as this will give extra grip. Press the material into the hole with the screwdriver and try again.

    Another option, if your screw has a Phillips head, is to use a flat-head screwdriver that is narrow enough to fit within the Phillips head hole. To pull this off easily try using the rubber band method mentioned above.

    2. Using an impact driver

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    This manual tool is great for removing threaded screws but make sure you use a good quality bit. Choose the correct screwdriver bit, ie Phillips or flathead and then insert it and tighten it. Next ensure the screw head is clear of any loose dirt and debris and ensure the bit is in the correct direction as you don’t want to tighten it up! Make sure you’re wearing your safety glasses and place the impact driver bit snugly into the screw head. Strike the handle end of the impact driver several times with a hammer. The bit will set firmly into the screw head and the impact driver head will rotate, loosening the screw. You should now be able to remove the screw by using either a drill or screwdriver.

    3. Using a Screw Extractor

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    For those stubborn screws that just won’t come out then screw extractors are a good choice as they are counter-threaded to how screws are threaded.

    Screw extractors come in different sizes, so you’ll need to select the right size to fit into the screw head of your stripped screw. Load the extractor into the check of your drill and tighten the chuck to hold the extractor securely. Make sure you set the drill into reverse. Because the extractor is reverse-threaded this means that with the drill in reverse the extractor bit will drill into the stripped screw and bite into the screw head. Keep drilling in reverse and the extractor will start turning the screw in reverse which will back it out.

    4. Using vice-grips or pliers

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    This is a great way of removing a stripped screw as long as the screw isn’t buried all the way. Just clamp down around the screw head and start turning! However, caution should be taken as this method could damage the surrounding surface around the screw as the jaws of the vise grip could scrape the surface.

    5. Using left handed drill bits

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    This isn’t a joke, they really to exist! Left handed drill bits are designed to be used in reverse. Choose a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the head on the screw, then put the bit in the drill and tighten. Make sure the drill is in reverse and apply firm pressure to the screw head and start the drill. Once it bites there’s a good chance that it will remove the screw.

    6. Using a rotary tool

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    If none of the above techniques work then using a rotary tool is another option. Securely attach a thin cutting disk to your rotary tool and start to cut a thin slit in the stripped screw. Make sure it’s deep enough to fit a flathead screwdriver, but thin enough that the screwdriver has enough to grip. If your screwdriver doesn’t fit you may need to make the cut larger, but make only small cuts; if you cut off too much of the screw, a screwdriver will not catch and you will not be able to twist the screw. The rotary tool can scatter loose metal shavings around the device so make sure you wear your safety glasses.

    I hope you enjoyed reading this article and that you found these techniques useful. However, please make sure that when attempting any of these methods you take care and wear suitable safety glasses.

    For more ideas on how to remove a damaged screw check out this YouTube video which covers some of the methods above and also shows a couple of extra techniques for you to try.

    If you are interested in an electrical training course, please visit our Course Finder page.

    Related Articles

    Manufacturers of rotary tools, such as Dremel, add functionality to their products by making accessories. One such accessory for the Dremel tool is a grout-removing bit, which looks similar to a conventional drill bit, except that it has carbide edges. When used with a hand grout-removal tool, it can make short work of your moldy and discolored old grout. The accessory works in conjunction with a guide attachment that screws onto the front of the rotary tool. The guide controls the depth of the blade and prevents the tool from chipping the tiles.

    Loosen the chuck of the Dremel rotary tool you’re using. Do this by depressing the shaft-lock button on the housing of the tool to prevent the shaft from rotating, then turn the collar counterclockwise by hand. Insert a grout removal accessory, or bit, and tighten the collar by hand.

    Unscrew the cap from the front of the housing and screw a guide attachment to the exposed threads. Adjust the extension of the bit by rotating the adjustment screw on the side of the attachment. Set the extension to the thickness of the tile.

    Put on a pair of safety glasses. Plug in the rotary tool, turn it on and set the variable speed to about one-third full. You can turn it up later if necessary, but it’s best to start with a slow speed until you get the feel of the machine.

    Plunge the bit into the grout and keep going until the guide is sitting flush on the tile. Move the tool slowly in the direction of the bit rotation. Because the bit rotates clockwise, this means moving the tool from left to right. Move slowly to avoid losing control or overworking the tool.

    Clean as close to the tile as possible. Chip off whatever grout remains with a handheld grout removal tool — which resembles a wide flat-head screwdriver — after you’re finished with the rotary tool.

    Vacuum the grout and dust out of the gaps between tiles prior to regrouting.

    Drilling a hole into a bolt that is stuck in the engine of my motorbike, the drill bit snapped and is now stuck in the hole. any advice on how to remove it?

    It’s a 3mm drill bit, with about 4/5mm of the drill bit stuck, and the hole was about 10mm deep when it snapped.

    Any ideas will be much appreciated.

    6 Answers

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    There are drill bits what are made special for drilling out broken drill bits ,in the uk they are called Cleavland drills ,and you use them with drilling paste .

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Broken Drill Bit

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    From your description the bit is 4/5 mm down to the broken part,that means you’ve got that much steel to drill a bigger bit,say 8mm until it’s almost touching the busted bit,might be you can do this then get a pair of needle nosed pliers down enough to grab the end,or a centre punch to tap it anticlockwise.

    Either way it’s got limited chances,I wouldn’t try to drill the bit myself,bike engines are soft metal and you could make it worse.

    Last resort would be a local machine shop with spark erosion facilities.that’ll get it out for sure but needs striped down to component levels. good luck,you’ll need it!

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    This is a tough situation. I’d suggest welding the hole up and starting again, if you have that equipment available to you. Otherwise you’ll have to grind or drill around the bit till you uncover enough to work it out. You won’t be able to run another drill bit down into the existing one, the steel is way too hard, and i’t’s not a solid piece, to boot. Good luck.

    Ok, so i was drilling something with a black and decker drill with a 1/16 steel drill bit. i was trying to get it out, by turning it, but it wouldn’t loosen it. I tried to pull it out with a clamp and unfortunately broke it. how do i loosen the piece of drill bit stuck inside.

    a black and decker 3.5 A 0-1200 vsr

    the chuck turned but wouldnt loosen the drill bit

    6 Answers

    If there’s just a little exposed, you could grab it with some Channel-Locks and unscrew it counter-clockwise,

    pulling as you turn.

    Or, drill it out with another bit.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Do you mean the drill is stuck in the wood (or object) or stuck in the drill? If the drill bit is stuck in the drill you will need a pair of vice grips and another pair of pliers, preferably channel-lock pliers. Grip one part of the keyless chuck with the vice grips (Preferably the metal part) and use the other pliers to turn the other part counter-clockwise.

    1- remove drill from the bit. 2- take a hammer and tap around the drill where it goes into the floor. 3- DO NOT tap the drill down towards the floor. 4- Keep tapping around the base until it comes free.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    I would suggest that you tap it with a hammer then try the channel locks thing.

    Trying to drill it out would be useless. Drill bit is way to hard to drill out.

    If no other course then move the hole over and drill again.

    if you cant pull / twist it out with channel locking pliers then cut or break it flush then drill it out.

    sorry i’m having a blonde moment and i really don’t want to call my dad and ask him how to undo the collar. i don’t have a chuck key either and i don’t think you need one for this drill because at college i could undo the drill collar by hand. i didn’t realise they were different!! silly me. can anyone give me some advice if you could it would be great! thanks!

    8 Answers

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Assuming the drill was made in the last decade, it uses a keyless chuck. Put the drill in reverse and hold the chuck tightly. Press the trigger and the chuck should release. If this doesn’t work, the chuck is over tightened, In that case, you many have to find something to grip both sides of the chuck and turn them in opposite directions. Another option is to find the biggest jock around and let them show off.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    If it has holes in the chuck, you need a chuck key. If it is a newer one, and doesn’t have holes, you need to grip the chuck firmly and put the drill in reverse and pull the trigger. If you need a chuck key but don’t have one, you can put the drill in a vice so that the part that the chuck is attached to doesn’t spin and use a pipe wrench to turn the chuck. Good luck.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    This drill doesn’t have a keyed chuck, it has a plastic keyless chuck.

    Grip the front of the chuck hard and operate the drill in reverse. You have to hold really hard as you do it.

    That’s the only way to open the chuck. If you use a vice or grips you’ll damaged the edges of the chuck and your dad will be mad.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Go with the new Milwaukee 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Drill. A little pricey at about $300 but you get a 5 year warranty on the tool and 5 year warranty on the batteries! I’ve used mine since they came out last year and haven’t had any problems. My old DeWalt ones have found their way into the trash. The quality of the tools have just seemed to have gone down hill.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    If it’s a hand clutch chuck simply run it in reverse. Grab hold of the chuck as tightly as possible and then press the trigger very slowly. If this doesn’t work then jerk the trigger on and off quickly with your hand holding the chuck.

    The final method is to run the drill at speed without holding the chuck (still in reverse) and karate chop the right hand side of the chuck with your right hand. Be ready to turn the thing off when you see the drill come loose. You don’t want it flying off into the distance and killing the cat.

    The Difference in the Yamaha 221 & 225 Flutes

    Things You’ll Need

    • Allen wrenches
    • Mallet
    • Chuck key for drill chuck

    The Chicago pneumatic 3/8-inch drill is much like an electric drill, except that it uses air from an air compressor to power the drill. The chuck on a Chicago pneumatic drill is typically a keyed chuck, but this can be replaced with an after-market keyless chuck. The chuck is held in place by a set screw through the back of the chuck into the drill’s drive shaft. Once this screw is taken out, the drill chuck can be loosened and removed.

    Remove the air hose from the coupling on the bottom or rear of the drill handle. Grasp the coupling and pull away from the drill, which will disengage the coupling and remove it from the drill.

    Insert the chuck key into the drill and twist counterclockwise to loosen the jaws and remove any bit in the chuck. Once the drill bit is removed, twist the chuck counterclockwise until the jaws are open to their widest point.

    Peer inside the opened jaws of the chuck and locate the set screw at the back of the chuck. Insert an Allen wrench into the screw, and turn it clockwise to remove the screw.

    Place the chuck key back into the chuck. Position the drill flat on a work table, and tap the chuck key with a mallet, turning the chuck counterclockwise to break it loose from the drive shaft. When the chuck breaks loose, remove the chuck key.

    Turn the chuck counterclockwise until it is removed from threaded drive shaft.

    Warnings

    Before working on repairing your drill, always disconnect the tool from the power source (in this case, the pneumatic air hose).

    DIY Home Projects

    • March 02, 2018

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    A good drill is a fundamental tool everyone should own. BLACK+DECKER™ drills and all-in-one drill/drivers simplify hundreds of household projects, from installing shelves to hanging blinds and assembling furniture – all the things that help make a house a home.

    Here we’ve put together the basic info you need to understand drill features and dive into your next project with confidence.

    When to Use the Reverse Switch on Your Drill

    All power drills have a forward (clockwise) and reverse (counter-clockwise) switch, usually right above the trigger. After drilling, setting the bit direction to reverse spins it counterclockwise to help it come out of the hole cleanly and easily. You’ll also use reverse mode to quickly remove screws and other fasteners.

    Never Leave a Bit Behind: About Bit Holders

    Drills with an on-board bit holder can save you time and hassle because the bits you need are always accessible.

    Shed Light on Your Work with an LED

    Some drills, 20V MAX* Lithium Ion Drill/Driver, feature a built-in LED to illuminate your work surface. This can be a lifesaver when you’re drilling or driving in tight or dark spaces like inside a closet or under the sink.

    Speed Control Can Be Simple or Sophisticated

    Most drill/drivers have a trigger to control how fast the drill spins, so for basic projects, a one-speed drill is all you need. If you need more precise speed control for diverse drilling or driving projects, a multi-speed drill like the BLACK+DECKER™ 20V MAX* Lithium Ion 2-Speed Drill/Driver is worth a look. Use high speed for small, fast holes and driving and a low speed for high-torque applications like drilling large holes.

    Drill, Driver, or Both?

    Simply, drilling is making a hole, and driving is securing a screw or other fastener. Drill/Drivers do both jobs, which is convenient for projects like hanging a mirror, where you might drill a pilot hole then drive in a screw.

    Clutch Play: What Does a Drill Clutch do?

    Drill/Drivers feature a manual or automatic clutch mechanism to adjust the drill/driver’s torque (turning power). Drill/Drivers with automatic clutches, like this 20V MAX* Lithium Ion Drill/Driver with AutoSense™ Technology, are great for beginners because they take the trial-and-error out of getting just the right amount of torque. Torque control is what separates a drill/driver from an ordinary drill. Most manual clutch drill/drivers have a numbered dial that makes torque adjustment easy. Use less torque (a lower number) for softer materials like drywall or when you want to limit how deep the screw goes. Use more torque for hard woods or when you want the screw flush or countersunk. When you’re not driving, simply set the clutch dial on drill mode.

    Meet Chuck: What is the Drill Chuck For?

    The chuck is a three-point clamp that holds the bit securely in place. Some drills come with a small key to tighten the chuck, while keyless chucks are tightened by hand. A clockwise turn tightens the chuck; a counter-clockwise turn releases the bit. Chucks come in dual-sleeve and single-sleeve configurations, with single-sleeve offering easy one-handed operation.

    Corded vs. Cordless Drills

    Cordless drills are convenient, compact, and easy to maneuver, so they can be used anywhere. You’ll appreciate cordless flexibility when you’re out in the yard repairing a gate or up on a ladder installing a light fixture. A lithium-powered cordless drill such as our 20V MAX* Lithium Ion Drill/Driver will give you plenty of runtime for basic projects.

    Corded drills require a power source and tether you to a cord, but they offer the benefit of unlimited runtime and increased power for large or complex project you want to finish without recharging a battery. You can’t go wrong with a corded drill like this BLACK+DECKER™ 20V MAX* Lithium Ion Drill/Driver.

    Updated July 31, 2020

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Have you ever wondered how you go about removing rivets? Rivets fasten thin-gauge metals like gutter straps and sheet metal cladding, and they are permanent solutions.

    Once in place, they are there for good. But what do you do if you need to remove them?

    We show you how to remove rivets with a drill bit and explain which drill bits you should use.

    Remove rivets with a drill bit the easy way

    Find the center of the rivet and place the drill bit on the rivet head. Start the drill slowly as the bit starts to cut into the surface. Going slowly is better because you need to apply more pressure than speed. Make sure the drill bit is slightly larger than the shank of the rivet.

    Table of Contents

    Why Do Rivets Break?

    There are several reasons why rivets break. As we said in the introduction, rivets are a permanent fixing solution, designed to stay put. However, rivets that do break, typically are as a result of a second-rate installation.

    It could be that the person putting the rivets in was too aggressive with the rivet. Driving down on the rivet too hard will increase the strain on the metal and cause it to shear off. However, a rivet with too little pressure applied is likely to come loose.

    Perhaps the construction worker was using the wrong tool or in a hurry to get the job done. There are any number of variables that could cause your rivets to break.

    What You Need

    You are going to need some tools to remove rivets effectively. Here is a handy list:

    • Drill: preferably a cordless drill because you are potentially working at a height.
    • Titanium Drill Bits: titanium is super-tough and can resist heat better.
    • Screwdriver: to reattach any elements with gutter screws.
    • A Hammer: just in case the rivet is being stubborn.
    • A Punch: to insert in the hole if the rivet refuses to come out.
    • Safety Goggles: it sounds obvious, but drilling through metal can be dangerous.
    • A Ladder: make sure it is long enough because you typically find most rivets near the fascias and roofline.

    How To Remove Rivets with a Drill Bit

    1. Locate the Rivets

    There is a strong chance that if a couple of rivets have failed, others are likely to follow suit. Before you undertake any drilling, you would be wise to locate all the rivets first. Pop rivets are found in guttering, guttering straps and any other thin sheet metal used in the construction of your house.

    If you want to remove a gutter or downpipe, you will need to remove all of the rivets.

    2. Choose the Drill Bit

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Most rivets have a small hole in the center. Offer up your drill bit to check the size. If the drill bit fits in the hole, it is too small. Typically, a drill bit of 0.125 inches will suffice. It needs to be slightly wider than the gap, or the drill bit won’t work.

    When you are happy that you have found the correct size, secure it in the chuck of your cordless drill.

    3. It’s Time to Drill Out the Rivet

    If you are working high off the ground, place the ladder against the wall of the house, making sure that you firmly wedge the feet in the ground to avoid the ladder slipping. It might be worth pressing your weight down on the first step, making double-sure it doesn’t slip.

    Also, when working with a ladder, make sure the ground is even.

    Once the rivet is within reach, offer up the drill to the center hole of the rivet. Keep the drill straight and press the trigger. Go very slowly, because drilling out a rivet is about the pressure you apply rather than the speed you work.

    At some point, you should hear the drill bit change pitch as it bites through the shank of the rivet. Ease off with the pressure at this critical moment because you don’t want the drill bit to punch through the rivet and damage your house.

    When the head comes loose, the rivet will detach from the hole. Now remove the drill. If the rivet is stubborn, grab the hammer and punch and insert the punch into the hole. Give it a sharp tap to dislodge the rivet.

    4. Repeat

    Continue this same process until you have drilled out all of the rivets.

    5. Attach the Screws

    You will need to reattach the material you have removed the rivets from and so grab your gutter screws and screwdriver. You could insert new rivets if you have the appropriate tools, but very few people have a riveter at hand. Also, screws can be removed easily, which means you avoid another protracted job of drilling out more rivets later down the line.

    If the old holes no longer line up, use the same drill bit and cut new ones to insert the screws.

    Top Tips

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Use Hand Tools

    If you don’t have a power drill, a chisel, a hammer and a punch will do. Place the sharp edge of the chisel under the lip of the rivet head and hit it firmly with a hammer. Repeat until the head of the rivet falls off.

    Place the punch in the center of the hole where the head was and give it a tap with the hammer. The rivet should fall away.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Use a Grinder

    You could also use a grinder to slice the head off the rivet and repeat the same procedure with the hammer and punch.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Hand-Turn the Bit

    If you hand-turn the drill bit on the surface of the rivet head, it makes a neater pilot hole and gives you better control of the drill bit.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    File the Rivet Head

    Some rivets have a curved head, which can be challenging to drill through. The 470 rivet is a prime example of a rivet head that curves. Grab a file and work a small section of the head until it has flattened. It gives you a better surface to make your pilot mark with a drill bit.

    How to Remove a Drill Bit

    Remove Paint

    It is a wise idea to sand away any paint around the head of the rivet for two reasons. The first is that it unbinds the rivet head and makes it easier to find the lip to remove it. And the second reason is that when the rivet detaches, it won’t take any excess paint away from the surface. It saves you a paint touch-up job later.

    Rivets Are Riveting

    So, there you have it. Removing rivets is more straightforward than you thought. The next time your DIY project is stopped in its tracks, thanks to some stubborn rivets, reach for the drill, and get drilling.

    Once you get the hang of it, you could be removing rivets for fun and have the job done in double-quick time.