Replacing a car battery on older vehicles used to be simple. You unhooked the battery and installed the new one. Late-model vehicles, however, rely on computers that operate everything from the stereo to the transmission. If power is lost to the computers, the settings are lost and reset to default. This means the vehicle may feel different when driven, and you may have to enter a security code to access the stereo. Using a simple memory saving device when replacing your car battery will help you avoid these problems.
Purchase a small 9-volt memory saver. These inexpensive devices are sold at most automotive supply stores. The memory saver is plugged into a 12-volt accessory outlet or cigarette lighter on your vehicle. It contains a 9-volt battery that provides a constant charge to the vehicle’s system while the main battery is removed.
Ensure the memory saver’s 9-volt battery is fresh and then plug the memory saver into the accessory outlet or cigarette lighter. Also make certain the memory saver is working after it‘s plugged in. An indicator light should let you know if power is reaching the device. You may have to turn the vehicle’s ignition switch to the accessory or “ACC” position for the memory saver to work.
Turn off all the other accessories on the vehicle, ensuring that all lights are off, including the dome light and trunk light. If the vehicle has a light under the hood, unscrew the bulb. Anything that requires electricity will quickly drain the 9-volt battery in the memory saver.
Remove the car battery from the vehicle. Each make and model will vary, but most will require you to remove a plastic cover, guards and perhaps a mounting bracket. Use the necessary wrenches to remove these parts, then disconnect the negative (or black) and positive (or red) cables from the battery terminals. Remove the negative ( – ) cable first, followed by the positive ( + ) cable.
Install the new battery as quickly as possible. Reconnect the positive cable before attaching the negative cable. Ensure both cables are securely fastened to the battery terminals and replace any guards, brackets or covers you removed.
Turn the ignition on the vehicle and start the engine. Unplug the memory saver from the outlet or cigarette lighter.
Replacing the car battery may lead to the loss of your car’s settings. Everything of most modern cars depends on computers. They could be from the stereo to the transmission.
As far as older car models are concerned, this used to be a simple process: it only involved taking the old battery out and installing a new one. With late-model automobiles, cutting off the power to the computers may cause resetting to default and asking for security codes on restarting. These problems can be avoided with the help of an easy memory saving device.
The instructions for using the memory saver are easy to understand and follow. You can find 9-volt memory savers at most auto stores. They are not expensive and contain a 9-volt battery providing a stable charge to the system of the vehicle while the major car battery is detached.
To make sure the memory saver is functioning correctly, check its condition, and, after plugging it in, look for the indicator light to see if power is getting to the device. In some cases, the vehicle’s ignition switch must be turned to the ACC position. All other accessories must be turned off, such as the dome, the trunk, and the hood lights or they will drain the memory saver’s battery.
The next step is removing the battery. It is not difficult if you pay attention to your car’s model, make, and follow the instructions manual. Employ the needed wrenches and disconnect the cables from the terminals of the battery, starting with the negative/black one.
The installation of the new battery should be as quick as possible. Attach the cables again. Start with the positive one and ensure they are securely fixed to the terminals of the battery. After you make sure, everything is back in place, turn the explosion in the car and start the engine, next detach the memory saver. You will find your car with the same settings, waiting for you to enjoy your ride, as if nothing had ever happened.
Everyone has to deal with a number of minor issues with the car. The issues may come occasionally and you may have to deal with them either on your own or take the help of an expert. In most cases, you will take it to an expert mechanic or electrician and he’ll get fixed as per requirements.
Among the wide range of minor and major issues you have to face, one which is a very important issue is that, when you change your car battery, your dashboard settings are lost.
What happens is that when you pull out a damaged battery or weak battery that needs to be replaced, the power goes off and the internal system will be turned off, losing all its settings and data.
So, you will have to set things up again if you don’t care about this issue. You may need to take help from anyone who is familiar with the issue as well. Here we’ll be discussing a very helpful technique that will help you conserve the settings and still replace the battery without losing the data.
Let us start with the first step here
Explore the settings and prepare
Look at the dashboard of your vehicle and there you can see a screen showing the AC settings, the radio settings, the CD player and all the channels you have set up in your car. The screen will show the whole setup.
This record is stored and maintained in your car with the help of power drawn from your car battery. So, if you change the battery without any precautionary measure, you will lose it all and you will have to set things up again.
It could be hard if you don’t know your car. You may need to go through the manual, and if you have lost it, you will reach out to the dealer and get the manual to restore the settings on your own. This process could be hectic and time-consuming. So, we will try to keep these settings safe by using a simple tactic here.
The process of changing the battery while retaining its settings
So, now the first thing that you will need to do is to prepare and take out the battery. You will need two spanners, one for loosening the bracket and the other to take out the terminals. Open the bracket and then prepare to take out the terminal clips.
Before you loosen and pick out the terminal cables that are attached to the battery, you will need to attach the two wires of the car with a small 9 Volt battery. This will help keep the car to retain its settings until you install the new battery.
At first, you should be checking the battery if it has the required 9 volts and is charged. For this, either you should buy a brand new battery so there is no doubt in that or you may also check the battery with the help of a multimeter. If it shows the 9 volts reading, then it is safe and ready to use.
You should make it sure that the battery terminals are attached firmly to the correct terminal wires of the car before you remove the battery from these wires.
For this, you will need to connect the 9V battery first, by going to the positive terminal and then the black one the ground or negative terminal. After that, you may loosen the terminal brackets and pull out your battery. In this way, the 9V battery will keep the things in the dashboard charged, while you put back a new battery.
Keep the wires connected to the 9V battery until you place the wires back to the terminals of the new battery. After fixing the positive and negative terminal wires in the brackets, you may remove the 9V battery. In this way the current flow or the power supply will not be interrupted and the battery changing process won’t harm the settings in any way
By following the whole process you will never lose the settings and can easily replace the battery in your car.
I have just got hold of an old computer for my son. It is working perfectly with Linux but it appears to be about seven years old so I presume the battery is nearing the end of its life.
Although I am prepared to copy the BIOS settings, I do not want to have to check them all again unnecessarily. The Gigabyte motherboard (GA-8PE 800 Ultra) has a dual BIOS.
Does anyone know if this motherboard has a capacitor that will give me a few minutes to change the battery? Are both BIOS maintained by the same battery (I can only see one battery) or does the back-up have some other way of remaining intact?
I am intending to photograph the BIOS settings to save them. Does anyone know an easier way? I do not have a parallel port printer, so I can’t use the screen-shot/buffer technique.
An explanation or two might help.
The BIOS itself is a hardware program stored in non-volatile memory. It needs no power to remain and will not be lost by removing the battery.
The BIOS settings are what are preserved by the battery (or power supply). That’s a much smaller amount of data. If that data is lost, the BIOS will happily reboot from the default settings when the machine is powered up.
Even when a modern PC is shut down, as long as it’s not unplugged, there’s a trickle charge going through the power supply that maintains the BIOS settings, so the battery isn’t being drained. Eventually the battery will die even if it’s not used, usually in the 7-10 year range. An unplugged PC will drain that battery in just a few years.
Unless you’ve done something fancy to that system – overclocking or RAID configuration – using the optimized BIOS settings does pretty well, and is easy to reset from the menu.
Otherwise – photography is the easist solution. Pencil and paper run a close second.
Friday, December 2, 2011
Replacing a video game cartridge battery without losing saved data
Back in the 8-bit and 16-bit video game days, a small number of game carts contained a battery in them. They used a small lithium battery to allow games to be saved on the cartridge. Before the 8-bit days I don’t think they had saved games, and after the 16-bit days they used flash memory. So this is really a small number of 8-bit and 16-bit games that have batteries. But these batteries won’t last forever, in fact most of them are probably dead by now. Amazingly enough I have a cartridge at home that still has saved game data 20 years later!
Replacing the battery isn’t too difficult as long as you have some soldering skills, but doing so will erase any data saved on the cartridge. I own Phantasy Star 2 on the Sega Genesis (Mega Drive) that has some pretty incredible saved games that I want to preserve. So this is my attempt to replace the battery without losing saved games.
1. Opening the cartridge
This step may seem straightforward, but it may be more complex. The Sega Master System used standard philiips screws, but the Sega Genesis uses a security bit. So you may need to buy a security bit to open the cart, or find another creative way to open it. Once open you need to identify the type of battery. All Sega carts I’ve seen use a CR2032 lithium battery. Here are pictures of the front and back of Phantasy Star 2.
2. Buy replacement batteries
Once you know the type of battery you need to order replacement batteries. Yes, you need to order 2 batteries for this to work. I highly recommend you order “tabbed” batteries. Soldering directly onto batteries is difficult and can be dangerous. These replacement batteries should be fairly cheap. I got mine from newark for $2.57 each.
3. Add a battery in parallel
For this technique to work you need to solder a second battery onto the cartridge in parallel with the existing battery. In theory this battery will continue to provide power while replace the battery soldered into the cartridge itself. When soldering in this second battery be sure and get the polarity right.
4. Replace the battery
With the temporary battery in place, you can now desolder the old battery and solder in the new one. Removing the battery is very easy with a solder sucker, or you should be able to get it our using just solder wick. Once the original battery is out you can solder in the new one. You may need to bend the pins so they align with the holes in the circuit board. Also, as before make sure you get the polarity correct. Here’s a picture of the new battery soldered to the board after I removed the temporary battery.
You can now reassemble the cartridge and try the game out. When I did here’s what I got:
FAILURE! Crap, I just lost all my saved games.
So what happened? Well I can only think of one reason why this failed. Soldering requires very high temperatures, so the circuit traces around the battery were briefly subjected to temperatures in excess of several hundred degrees. A general rule of electricity is as temperature increases so does resistance. So my guess is the resistance increased causing a drop in voltage and current sufficient to cause a lose of stored data.
Is there a way to get around this and still make it happen? I can think of two ideas. First, if you used a voltage source higher than a single lithium battery (3.6V) the increased voltage might be enough to overcome the increased resistances from heat. Of course, this becomes tricky because too much voltage could “fry” the chips on the circuit board. The only other suggestion I can think of is to buy a retrode. This device allows you to read and write saved game info directly from the cartridge. So you could save the data to your computer, replace the battery, then restore the data.
Well even though my attempt was a failure, I’m glad I did it. It was a fun project, and these new batteries should last another 20 years.
I need restore my Dell back to factory settings, what can I do?
Hi guys, I’m recently thinking about to set Dell factory restore for that the computer is working slower and slower. And sometimes, it even corrupted or got stuck without any notice. Some friends recommended me to reinstall the system. And my roommate suggested me to restore Dell to factory settings. This will be much easier than to reinstall the system.
But I’m wondering whether it’s possible to keep all my old applications and data while setting Dell factory restore? I want to find a way or the best backup software to help me back up data and set Dell factory restore without losing any data. Please do help me and this does matter to me. Thank you in advance.
Tow Recommended Ways to Set Dell Factory Restore
To set Dell factory restore seems not really that complex but a little bit complex for ordinary users. Here in this passage, you’ll find two secure and highly recommended ways to help set dell factory restore.
1. Backup data and set Dell factory restore manually
This way is recommended for those who are familiar with Dell system and need a free way to set factory restore. To restore Dell to factory set, one thing that you need to do first is to backup important data and applications in a safe spot. An external storage device such as external hard drive will be perfect. To backup files and data, one by one may take a long time.
After this you can start to set Dell factory restore now:
A.Turn on or reboot/restart Dell computer, press F8 until the Advanced Boot Option appears. Press and select Repair Your Computer on Advanced Boot Options menu, then click Next.
B.Specify language setting and click Next. Then log in with administrative credentials, choose Dell Factory Image Restore and click Next.
C.Choose Yes and reformat the hard drive. Then restore system software to factory condition check box. Click Next, the computer will be restored to default factory configuration. At last, click Finish to restart the computer when the restore operation is completed.
2. Set Dell factory image and restore to factory with third-party software
If you are seeking one easier way to set Dell factory restore, third-party system backup and restore software is your best chance. It allows users to create factory image by backing up the system and when problems happen, you can directly apply the software to restore Dell to factory settings. How to do this? EaseUS Todo Backup is able to help you now. Free download this software and follow next steps to create Dell factory image and restore it right now.
Create Dell factory image:
Launch EaseUS Todo Backup, choose “System backup“. Choose a backup destination, do not store the backup image in C or system drive. Then click Proceed.
If you have important data, you can choose important data and files to be backed up together with the system files.
Set Dell factory restore:
Start Dell computer by choosing boot from EaseUS Todo Backup. Then choose “Browser to Recover” and select system backup image. Click Next to set the destination location. Click Proceed.
After doing these settings, the only thing you need is to wait. This program will do Dell factory restore for you automatically without losing any data.
Was This Page Helpful?
100 % of people found this article helpful.
Frequently Asked Questions
“The easiest way to protect your data and system files.” вЂ”techradar
“EaseUS Todo Backup Free is one of the most popular free data backup applications available. This software offers a myriad of features and is extremely user-friendly. It provides a full system backup, meaning you can back up your entire operating system.” вЂ”TopTenReviews
“EaseUS ToDo Backup Home is a great backup program, well suited to the home and SMB space.” вЂ”PCWorld
What is the difference between Clone and Backup? In what cases should I use Clone?
Clone will copy one disk to another or one partition to another (unallocated space is also supported). Usually, this option is used to upgrade the current disk by creating an identical copy. Backup will generate a .PBD image file containing the selected files or system that can be restored from the .PBD image if needed.
What is the difference between System Backup and Disk Backup?
System Backup will auto-select the system boot related partition(s) as the backup source to make sure the system image can be restored properly. Disk/Partition Backup will allow you to manually select a whole disk or speficy a certain partition as the backup source. You will get the same backup result as System Backup if you manually select the system and boot partitions with the Disk/Partition Backup option.
As a computer newbie, what features should I use to protect my computer?
You can use System Backup to back up the system and boot partitions, use Disk/Partition backup to back up the data partition and add plans to run an automatic backup. If you use the computer frequently or have software that may cause boot failure of the computer, we would suggest you back up the computer every 1 to 2 days. For other situations, you can backup the computer once a week. In addition, you can schedule File Backup to back up the files which are changed frequently.
What kind of storage service should I use to save my backup images?
EaseUS Todo Backup can save backup images to internal disks, external disks, network drives, or free cloud(Google Drive, Dropbox, and OneDrive) and CD/DVD. It is suggested to save the images to the internal/external/network drives to save time as those kinds of disks have a better read-write speed. It is suggested NOT to save the image on the source disk, because once the disk is damaged, all the files on the disk will become unavailable and you will be unable to restore the image.
As a company network administrator, what features should I use to protect our internal computers?
It is recommended that you use the SQL Backup feature to back up your company’s SQL server and Exchange Backup feature to back up the Exchange server. In addition, you can execute System Backup to back up the system and boot partitions on every computer and set a plan to execute the backup once a day or twice a week to ensure that the computer can be restored timely when it has boot issues. File Backup feature can be used to back up important user data. If there are a large quantity of computers, you can purchase EaseUS Backup Center to manage the backups on the client computers centrally.
Jean / 2017-11-13
Brithny / 2017-11-09
Brithny / 2017-11-09
Tracy King / 2017-11-09
About EaseUS Todo Backup
Be it a file, system, partition, or disk, EaseUS Todo Backup will help you back up or clone the item and provide you with multiple backup plans.
- Server Hardware
- Disaster Recovery
I have a faulty 3ware RAID controller that I need to replace. I have a spare controller ready to use, it is the exact same model. Is it possible for me to replace the faulty controller with the spare without losing data if i place the drives in the exact same position as they are in the faulty controller?
I have already created backups of my data.
All help appreciated.
This has been successfully done by replacing the card. Read the final comment at the bottom:http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1125616
There also seems to be a lot of complaints about this controller, so you may want to reconsider this controller. Here is an article written by the president of a hosting company that used these: http://www.mattheaton.com/?p=160
Plus, the link above has several people commenting on problems with these cards.
Well, having a developers agreement with LSI/AMCC (In my day job I write RAID diags, appliance software, etc . ) I can comment in much more depth.
1) The vast majority of “problems” that people have with these cards when using a parity-based RAID and desktop class drives. If you don’t have enterprise/server class disks and are running RAID5 or RAID6 then you are just asking for trouble due to the error recovery limitations. RAID1/0/10 is safe on desktop disks.
It is profoundly rare that this family of controller is to blame. It is one of the better midrange controllers out there. Also if you don’t enable background scrubbing then you are just asking for data loss when you have a drive failure.
[Warning – getting on soapbox]
Personally if you are using desktop class disks and this controller, or any RAID controller with RAID5 or higher (and to some extent RAID10), then backup often. Furthermore, if you have Intel Matrix, or LSI-branded, or HP SMARTArray, or Dell PERCs RAID controllers, then desktop drives aren’t even supported, and I have a drawer full of t-shirts thanks to the people that don’t read published specs and qualified disk lists who think that the only thing that differentiates 2 SATA disks of consequence is amount of RAM, Capacity, and RPMs.
[Off of soapbox]
Last updated on June 2, 2019
What You Need To Know
Are you thinking of replacing your iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 plus? Have you considered that there are other options? When our phones aren’t brand-new anymore and the battery seems to run out more and more quickly, many times our first thought is that it’s time to replace our iPhones. That’s certainly the easiest and least stressful way to fix our problem but let’s consider some other points. There can be many causes for our batteries not holding the charge as they used to, running more slowly, or to taking longer to become fully charged.
In general, around the time that this occurs, most people are eligible for an upgrade on their phones. It just seems to be the natural progression to take your iPhone in to the store and upgrade it to the next model. No mess, no fuss. Problem solved, phone charges and runs great while holding the charge like your iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 plus did when it was new. All is good … or is it?
Once you’ve opted to upgrade your iPhone7 or iPhone 7 plus, you have most likely just locked yourself into a one or two-year agreement to pay $10, $20 or up to $40 or more a month for that phone. For a fraction of the cost of a new iPhone, many times replacing the battery in your iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 plus may be the better choice.
iPhone 7 battery replacement and iPhone 7 plus battery replacement may be an option if your phone is charging or running more slowly. Older iPhone batteries will eventually take noticeably longer to charge than a brand new iPhone. You have the option of taking it to an iPhone store for battery replacement, however, that means you are without your phone for however long it will take them to get the job done. Another option is to replace your iPhone 7 battery yourself. iPhone battery replacement is not the simplest of tasks and can take anywhere from a half an hour to two hours. There are many steps.
Since it’s become known that Apple secretly slows down batteries, replacement may be the solution to the charging or operating speed issues your iPhone 7 or iPhone 7 plus has been experiencing. iPhone 7 battery replacement and iPhone 7 plus battery replacement are very similar procedures.
It is important to note that you should let your phone charge drop below 25% before attempting battery replacement. Attempting to remove a battery that’s fully charged can result in explosion or fire if it is punctured accidentally.
If you decide to tackle the job yourself, it is recommended that you detach the display assembly. If you feel that you are able to remove your battery without damaging the cables to the assembly, then there is no need to disconnect them.
For Your iPhone 7 Battery Replacement You Will Need The Following Tools:
- iFixit Opening-Picks set-of-6.
- Phillips #000-Screwdriver.
- Tri-point Y000-Screwdriver Bit.
- P2 Pentalobe-Screwdriver iPhone.
- Suction Handle.
- ESD-Safe Tweezers-Blunt Nose.
- Plastic Cards.
You Will Also Need The Following Parts:
- iPhone-7 Replacement-Battery
- iPhone-6/6s/7-Battery Adhesive-Strips
- iPhone-7/7 Plus Bottom-Screws
- iPhone-7 Display Assembly-Adhesive
Best iPhone 7 / 7 Plus Replacement Kits
You can get all the tools you need with kits that are offered online. We have found that there are many dependable vendors on Amazon that offer not only high quality batteries but with all the tools needed in a kit for a very affordable price. On top of it, if there is anything wrong with the kit, you can return or ask for a replacement with Amazon’s liberal return policy. Below are some of our favorite vendors. Please make sure you buy the kit for your exact model.
Steps to replace your iPhone 7 / 7 Plus Battery
- On the bottom of your iPhone 7 near the lightning port. You will find on the left and right of the lightning port, you’ll see two pentalobe screws. Gently remove the screws..
- If you’ve bought a battery replacement kit, this kit should have included a pentalobe screwdriver to use.
- Next, you need to separate the screen from the body of your iPhone. This requires a lot of care and a gentle touch. Removing the screen can be done with either a thin flat object like a metal spudger, flat plastic tool, or a suction cup-like a tool. Usually the kit will have one of these tools listed (if you purchased one).
- Open the phone by separating the f bottom from the display to about 90 degrees. Note: do not attempt to open it further than 90 degrees as this as it can cause damage to the display cables.
- Next, locate two small Phillips head screws that connect the battery to the bracket or connector. Remove these screws and set them in a safe place so as not to lose them.
- Also keep the two screws separated from each other since they are different sizes.
- The bracket/ shield that you just removed the two screws will come off next. After removing the bracket or shield, carefully remove the small rectangular battery connector. Now, you should see the battery exposed on the logic board.
- Using the thin plastic tool previously used to remove the battery from its place on the logic board. You need to take off the four screws attached to the display bracket. Set these screws aside and separated and ordered so you remember where each screw came from. .
- Important: Being careless in this regard can permanently damage your iPhone 6.
- Once the screws are taken out,, remove the panel from the logic board.
- The next step is to disconnect the cable connectors:
- First, disconnect the front camera and sensor cable connector. The next cable to disconnect is the home button connector.
- Then, disconnect the data display connector. Then, you will do the same with the digitizer cable connector. When disconnecting this digitizer cable connector, work from one side and then the next side until it begins release up..
- Please do not not pull or push from the middle of the digitizer cable connector.
- You can now take off the back of the phone and the display panel. Carefully and slowly take off the adhesive strips from the battery. These will expand but continue to gently pull until each one is removed a. It’s better to take your time and be careful with this step to avoid tearing the strips.
- Now you can remove the old battery now.
- Once you have removed the old battery, place the new battery in the same spot as the old battery (again taking care) and fasten the battery with the adhesive strips.
- Next, the process to remove open the housing that you began with is repeated. Except for in reverse. Take great care that you are not skipping steps in reassembling your iPhone in a different order. Not taking each step with care can lead to damage or poor assembly.
Don’t be intimidated by the idea of performing the iPhone 7 battery-replacement or your iPhone 7 plus battery-replacement. I feel it’s always better to save money and if you agree, I hope this has been helpful in getting you started.
Related articles on Why The Lucky Stiff:
Changing your car battery
You may have already seen our video on how to change a car battery (a worthwhile watch before attempting to fit your battery) and noted that you need a radio code for your vehicle. If this is the case, simply follow the below advice and you will be able to fit your battery without losing the car’s memory.
Changing a car battery is a relatively easy practice – though many people aren’t aware of this. However unless you put some thought into preparing for changing the battery you can find yourself unable to use your radio.
This is because some vehicle manufacturers – as an anti-theft measure – disable the radio if the power is cut until a special security code is entered. Many people aren’t aware of what their security code is or how to enter it, which can mean a trip to the garage to resolve the situation. This tutorial will teach you how to change your battery without the power being cut to your vehicle.
Tools you’ll require:
- Small socket set – usually 8, 10, 12 and 13mm will be enough
- A booster/jump pack OR a set of jump leads and any 12 Volt battery
Step 1 – Find your battery
Open your bonnet and locate the battery. In many cases the battery may be in a plastic box or padded canvas cover.
Note that in some rare cases the battery may be in the boot or under a seat inside the car.
Step 2 – Set up your secondary power source
If using a booster/jump pack; Find a stable location in the engine bay in which to site the jump pack where the leads can easily reach the battery terminals. Now clamp the crocodile clips of the booster pack over the leads that connect to the battery. Do not let the two crocodile clips touch each other! Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery. If your booster pack has a power switch ensure that it is switched on.
If using a 12 volt battery and a set of jump leads; Place your 12 volt auxiliary battery on the floor next to the vehicle and connect the jump leads to the auxiliary battery. Connect the red lead to the positive terminal and the black lead to the negative terminal. Do not let the crocodile clips at the opposite end of the cable touch each other! Now clamp the crocodile clips at the other end of the jump leads over the leads that connect to the battery. Ensure that you connect black to black and red to red. Also ensure that you have secured the crocodile clips to a metallic part of the leads that will not obstruct you whilst taking the leads off of the current battery.
Step 3 – Remove clamp holding your battery in place
Look at your current battery to find out how it is being physically held in place. In many cases there will be a clamp at the base of the battery holding it to the floorpan. In other cases there may be a clamp across the top of the battery holding it in place. Once you have worked out how the battery is being held in place, use your socket set to loosen the bolt(s) on the clamp and remove the clamp.
Step 4 – Remove your old battery
Now that your battery is no longer physically held in place we need to remove the leads from the battery and remove the battery. Locate the bolts on the battery leads that are holding the clamps onto the battery terminals. Using your socket set, loosen the bolts but do not remove them. Now, here comes the important bit. One at a time, starting with the negative lead, remove the leads from your current battery whilst ensuring that the crocodile clips from your auxiliary power source remain connected. Once the leads are free from the battery, remove the old battery from the vehicle. Your auxiliary power source is now supplying the power to your car until we connect the new battery.
Step 5 – Connect your new battery
Without knocking the leads currently being supplied by the auxiliary power source, lower your new battery into place. Now connect the leads onto the new battery – ensuring that you first connect the red to the positive terminal and then the black to the negative terminal. Be careful that you don’t knock the crocodile clips off the leads as you manoeuvre them onto the new battery. Now tighen the bolts on the clamps to hold them firmly in place. You can now safely remove your auxiliary power source by disconnecting the crocodile clips.
Step 6 – Clamp your new battery in place
Put the clamp back in place and tighten the bolt(s) that hold it in place.
Step 7 – Test
Fire up the car to ensure that the new battery has been successfully fitted. Now try the radio. If you have follwed this guide correctly, the power to your radio will not have been cut and your radio will not require programming with the radio code.
We hope that you were able to follow this tutorial without any problems. Please send us feedback whether positive or negative by contacting us.
Helping people with computers. one answer at a time.
Very often, the system will reset itself properly when you replace the battery, but there is an easy way to grab those screens to make sure you don’t lose important settings.
Hi, Leo. The system battery in my 10-year-old Dell desktop computer can no longer supply enough energy for the clock to keep the right time. I’m sure other functions are not working right as well. The Dell handbook says to copy 15 system screens before replacing the battery. Is that over caution or a real need? I continue to enjoy your newsletter and look forward to your answer if and when you get a chance.
In this excerpt from Answercast #30, I suggest an easy way to grab images of BIOS settings, just in case things go wrong after changing a battery.
Recording the settings
Boy! So I want to clarify that when you say, “Dell says to copy 15 system screens,” what it’s asking you to do is to record the settings in 15 different screens presented by your system BIOS; because those are the settings that are going to get lost or reset when you remove the battery from your motherboard when you replace the battery.
Is it overcautious? Boy, it’s not something I’ve ever done to be honest.
I’ve always replaced the battery;
Let the BIOS basically rediscover what the system is like;
Reset the time myself by hand,
And then gotten on with my life.
Things just seem to work.
There’s a risk
Now, unfortunately, I can’t guarantee that’s always going to work. I mean, it’s one of those things where it’s very possible that there’s an important BIOS setting that you would lose when you replace the battery. You would not then be able to figure out what that setting was.
Take a picture
So here’s my recommendation:
- Grab a digital camera; take a picture of each of those 15 screens; save them, then ignore them.
Replace the battery; see what happens.
If something isn’t working properly, then take the time to compare the 15 pictures of the screen with the 15 different screens. You’ll see if there’s a setting that you may have missed or that may have been important.
At a minimum, you’ve saved the settings in a way that you can then go back and recover from if you need them. and, in a way that’s not horrible!
You didn’t have to go through and write down 15 pages of information, or do something else silly!
This is a wonderful application, even for your cell phone camera (if it will take a relatively clear picture of your computer screen). Just do that; save the pictures somewhere as a reference for what all of the settings were before you replaced the battery, and then replace the battery.
Article C5524 – June 28, 2012 « »
Not what you needed?
You may also be interested in:
What’s a BIOS? BIOS, for Basic Input Output System, is the software already built in to you computer. It’s primary job? Load other software.
Should I password protect my BIOS? Many computers allow you to password protect your BIOS. It’s a fine additional layer of security, but it’s not absolute.
How often should I replace my CMOS battery, and what does it do, anyway? Replacing a computer’s CMOS battery isn’t difficult, but since CMOS batteries last so long it’s often not even necessary.
Taking pictures of each step also works in other situations, like replacing any innards in your computer.
Comments on this entry are closed.
If you have a question, start by using the search box up at the top of the page – there’s a very good chance that your question has already been answered on Ask Leo!.
I really like this bench multimeter. It’s amazing to me that a piece of equipment that was made in 1986 has an accuracy that is indisguishable from that of a 6 month old Fluke 87V. The word on the Internet is that the 3v Lithium batteries on these have begun to die. Not many batteries can last for 27 years. I’ve heard that they hold voltage until the very end and then they are done for. The problem is, that the calibration data is held in volatile RAM. When the battery dies, the data is lost and the unit is totaled. A recalibratoin is more than you can buy them for.
A suggested replacement is the:
Digikey #P226-ND Panasonic Batt Lithium 2/3A CYL W/PCM PINS
So, the trick is to get the battery out without losing the calibration data.
You can build a battery backup to temporarily provide the 3 volts why you replace the battery. You can can use the replacement battery to temporarily provide the voltage by soldering leads from it to the silver cap next to the RAM chip. Or, you might change the battery while the devices is powered via the mains. If you do do the later, you have to be extra careful as the soldering iron can ground the negative terminal of the battery and cause the unit, and you, some damage. The solution to that is to either use a butane soldering iron or heat up your AC soldering iron and unplug it right before it’s to be used.
I used both of the last scenarios because I wanted to have a backup should there be an interruption to the mains.
The steps I followed:
- Measured 3v on the new battery to make sure it was working
- Soldered a wire from the positive side of the new battery to a Schottky diode (DO204AL)
- Soldered a wire from the negative side of the replacement battery
- Tested for 3V between the far end negative lead that I soldered to the battery and the far end positive lead on the outside of the diode
- Soldered the wire from the negative side of the replacement battery to the negative side of the C510 cap (side closest to the front faceplate
- Soldered the wire from the diode to C510 (see pics) on the side farthest from the front faceplate of the unit
- Got my butane soldering iron going
- Connect the multimeter to the mains and turned it on
- Desoldered the old battery
- Soldered in the new battery
- Removed the temporary wires from the battery to C510
- Turned off the multimeter
- Turned it back on with fingers crossed and my Son watching me to see if I was a failure
- Everything worked!
- Used a permanent marker to write the date that I changed the battery on the bottom of the multimeter
- Wait about 10-15 years and repeat the process
Serial number decoder
SN : 2911A66xxx – Means : (29+60 = 89) = 1989 , Week 11 , A(merica)
Asked by kenmor Dec 02, 2014 at 02:23 PM about the 2007 Nissan Sentra
Question type: Maintenance & Repair
L_R answered 5 years ago
Check this answer http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t26754_ds622959
how do you replace a battery without setting off the alarm 1 Answer
2007 Nissan Sentra
after replacing the battery how do I keep the alarm from coming on 1 Answer
I put in a new battery but as soon as I connect the battery the alarm goes on.
2007 Nissan Sentra Base
How do I remove the dashboard of a 2008 Nissan Sentra to replace the heater blower motor? 25 Answers
Heater blower motor needs to be replaced. already checked the relay and the resister.
2008 Nissan Sentra Base
How can you tell if the clutch is blown in a 2009 Nissan Sentra? 3 Answers
The clutch peddle on my 2009 Nissan Sentra 6 speed, 2.0 liter, gave out completely on my way home. It totally bottoms out and the gear shifter is now loose. It had a burning smell when it broke down. .
2009 Nissan Sentra 2.0
I went through a large puddle in a parking lot but the car didn’t shut off 4 Answers
I went throught a large puddle in my 2005 nissan sentra the car didnt shut off and went right through. There was a little white smoke coming from the hood but didnt last long. What should I do?
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 S
With a simple, secure transaction.
2007 Nissan Sentra
- Nissan Sentra Questions
- All Questions
- Ask a Question
- Nissan Sentra Reviews
- Nissan Sentra For Sale
Search Nissan Sentra Questions
Nissan Sentra Experts
Find great deals from top-rated dealers TM
Related Models For Sale
Used Cars for Sale
Is our iPhone, iPad or iPod touch is having problems connecting to WiFi, has short battery life, or other bug problems? Try a Settings Reset first.
Is your iPhone, iPad or iPod touch is having problems connecting to WiFi, have short battery life, or other bug problems? You might want to try a settings reset first. This will return all of the device’s settings back to factory defaults, but won’t delete any of your apps or media. In fact, it won’t even rearrange your home screen icons.
Reset iOS 6 Settings
To reset the settings on your device go to Settings >> General then scroll down and tap the Reset button at the bottom.
On the Reset screen tap Reset All Settings – Not Erase All Content and Settings – then you’ll need to verify you want to do it twice.
It should only take a couple of minutes at most. After it’s finished, you’ll need to reconnect to WiFi, Bluetooth, and configure other custom settings.
A settings reset might solve problems you’re having with your device and I recommend trying this first. It might save you time without having to deal with a backup and hard reset. If you do need to do a full reset, make sure to back up your data first, as explained in our guide for updating iOS.
Got an iPhone 6 or 6s? Chances are you’re dealing with a slightly slower smartphone thanks to Apple’s reveal that it was slowing down iOS devices affected by degraded batteries . The company has since announced it will offer battery replacements for iPhone 6 and later devices. But whether or not you’re a victim of some power management snafu, you should replace your battery anyway.
$29 for One Year Only
Apple’s battery replacement program isn’t new. You’ve always been able to replace an iPhone’s battery, though you needed to do it at an Apple Store (or mail it in) and pay $79. Apple’s recent $50 discount makes a battery replacement a more manageable $29, but for one year only. If you’re starting fresh in 2018, why not start with a fresh battery?
Start Drawing With These iPad Pro Apps
Aspiring artists can appreciate the utility of drawing on a tablet compared to your traditional…
That $29 replacement can extend the usefulness of your iPhone for another year or two, saving you the trouble of needing to buy a new phone because your current one is slow. It will also boosts the resale value of the device, with customers more likely to buy a used iPhone with a newer battery compared to one with an original, degraded one.
Do It Yourself
Ambitious (or impatient) iOS owners may want to go the DIY route and replace it themselves. If that’s the case, they can turn to repair company iFixit , who has since discounted their iPhone replacement battery sets to $29 or lower, matching Apple’s own pricing. Of course, you’ll have to, well, do the replacing yourself, and that’ll cost you your warranty. If you’re still ready to spudger that bugger, be ready to buy a new phone if you fry something. It might be time to get one anyway , considering your bad battery.
Maintaining your deep cycle batteries is essential to ensure a maximum life span and to prevent damage. As such, it is important to detect battery problems at an early stage. Troubleshooting deep cycle battery issues is fairly easy to do yourself with the aid of a multimeter, volt meter, or watt meter.
Inspecting your deep cycle battery
The outside of deep cycle batteries can show early signs of failure. As such, troubleshooting battery problems can begin with a simple inspection. Ensure that the top of your battery is clean and dry. When a battery is covered in dust and dirt, it can discharge across the grime. Also, inspect the battery for broken or loose terminals; they are dangerous as they may result in short circuits. Flooded deep cycle batteries will need to be checked for leaking and damaged battery cases that may have been caused through overcharging or overheating. This problem won’t occur with AGM deep cycle batteries as they are designed with glass mat technology preventing leakage, even when damaged. Generally, cracks and holes will not prevent deep cycle batteries from operating, but they can be unsafe. As such, it is recommended to discard any batteries that have reasonably damaged battery cases.
Before testing your deep cycle battery
It is suggested to test your battery’s life when it is fully charged. If you find yourself in a situation where you cannot charge the battery, let it sit for approximately one hour before testing. As a result of charging or discharging, an uneven mixture of acid and water can arise on the surface of the plates. This phenomenon is referred to as a ‘surface charge’, and will need to be removed before the testing begins as it may influence your data. Surface charge can make a bad battery look good and vice versa. To remove the surface charge you can simply leave your fully charged deep cycle battery to sit for at least four hours. Also, ensure your battery is not connected to any appliances or a battery charger as this will influence the data.
Note: if you have multiple batteries connected together, each battery should be disconnected and charged/tested separately.
Testing the voltage of your deep cycle battery
You can test your deep cycle battery’s charge level in several ways. The most common methods use a multimeter, voltmeter, or watt meter. When you decide to test with a voltmeter, we recommend using a digital meter rather than an analogue meter as it will be more accurate in measuring millivolt differences. For a detailed guide on how to test the voltage of your deep cycle battery, you can have a look at our video ‘How to Check Your Battery Charge Level and Troubleshoot Issues’.
Analysing the test data
Once you tested your deep cycle battery’s voltage, you can analyse its state of charge. Simply compare the measured voltage with a state of charge table to discover your battery’s estimated charge level. For example, if your AGM deep cycle battery rates at 12.30V, it’s at a 70% state of charge as shown on our State of Charge graphic. This charge graphic relates to 12V AGM deep cycle batteries, but can also be used as a general guide for other battery types though keep in mind that there may be slight differences in the voltage rating.
Typically, a fully charged deep cycle battery will have a voltage of over 12.8V – 13V. Below are a few common battery problems you can identify by the voltage measurements.
If a fully charged AGM battery tests more than 20 percent lower than the fully charged voltage level, it’s probably due for replacement. This is typically a symptom of battery age, damage from over/under charging, or sulfation. You can sometimes improve a battery in this condition by using a desulfation device, otherwise you’ll have to live with the low capacity or replace the battery.
If your battery shows a good voltage when it’s fully charged, but quickly drops voltage to 11V or less when using power, this usually means the battery has a faulty cell and needs replacement. This can be caused by excessive vibration such as driving over corrugations without adequate shock absorption for the battery, or a manufacturing fault. Faulty cells are difficult and usually impractical to repair, so you’ll need to replace the battery.
When a deep cycle battery is fully discharged (dead flat), it should reveal a reading of approximately 10.5V. If your test shows that this voltage is below 10V, this typically means that the battery has been left in storage for too long without a charge or left with a load running on it that doesn’t have an automatic cut-off. Once a battery is below 10V, it is difficult to bring it back up as most battery chargers won’t recognise it as a battery due to the very low voltage. You can sometimes bring a battery back up by using an old bulk battery charger with no smarts (one that you just switch on, and it starts powering away with no stages or battery detection), but this usually depends on how long the battery has left at this low voltage.
Some final suggestions
Although you can easily troubleshoot any different battery issue yourself, accurately testing a deep cycle battery’s capacity requires a ‘deep discharge’ test. This kind of test can only be done with specialist discharge testing machines that can be found at reputable battery stores.
When troubleshooting a battery bank set up with a series or parallel circuit and one of the batteries is faulty, it will pull all the other batteries down. For example, if one of your batteries has dropped down to 8V, you may notice that the other batteries within this bank will have low voltage ratings as well. To troubleshoot this, you’ll need to disconnect and perform a full test on each battery individually. The battery with the lowest rating will be the faulty battery that needs to be replaced.
March 4, 2015 | By Aussie Batteries | Comments
Aussie Batteries and Solar with Australia Wide Shipping
Aussie Batteries & Solar is proudly an Australian company, specialising in batteries for all applications and complete battery bank systems. We supply the hardiest and most suitable battery products available, built to best handle Australia’s harsh environmental conditions. Aussie Batteries and Solar stock quality products that will last the distance, and back them above and beyond with exceptional warranties. Need Expert Advice – Freecall our Battery Experts on 1800 853 315 or EMAIL
Oh, bad luck, my iPhone 6 Plus stuck in white screen of death after iOS 9.3 jailbreak, what should I do now?
What is White Screen iPhone?
White screen is when you try to use iPhone or iPad, the device screen is still stuck in white. iPhone and iPad fail to access the system. Actually, hardware or software problem can cause the white screen of death.
If your iPhone’s screen is totally white and isn’t showing any icons or apps, what you may be facing is what’s called the iPhone White Screen, or White Screen of Death. That name makes it sound scary, but it’s not necessarily a death sentence for your iPhone. All you have to do is follow this article to fix this problem. The following are some of the solutions that you can take to fix iPhone stuck on white screen of death without losing data.
Way 1: Fix iPhone White Screen of Death without Losing Data
iOS System Recovery is used to help you fix iPhone white screen of death as it does not require a factory reset and won’t erase anything on your iPhone device. Besides, this software is able to deal with other iOS problems like iPhone stuck in recovery mode/DFU mode, iPhone won’t slide to unlock, iPhone disabled, iPhone stuck on Apple logo or black screen, etc. Follow these steps to have your iPhone turned back to the normal state. What’s more, the tool also enables to restore photos, music, contacts, messages, notes, etc. from iPhone/iPad/iPod touch.
Step 1. Choose the Fixing Mode after Connecting
Download and install iOS System Recovery software on your computer or Mac. Launch the program and connect your iPhone to the PC via USB cable. Then choose the mode “iOS System Recovery” on “More Tools” window. Once your iPhone is detected, click “Start” button.
Step 2. Download the Firmware
After checking your current iOS version, the program will download the latest version of your iPhone firmware. Click the button “Download” and wait for the download to complete.
Don’t disconnect or operate your iPhone during downloading. Otherwise, it may lead to the repair failure.
Step 3. Fix iPhone White Screen of Death
When the download is completed, the iOS System Recovery will begin repairing your iPhone. The program will get your device out of iPhone white screen without damaging your data.
Step 4. Restore Lost Data from iPhone
After repairing your device to normal, you can also retrieve lost contacts, messages, call logs, notes, music calendars and more from iPhone directly or extract data from iTunes/iCloud backup files.
Way 2: Fix iPhone White Apple Logo Screen of Death by Hard Reset
Turning it off and on again is often a surprisingly effective solution, as a hard reset can be used to recover a frozen device with ease.
1. Press and hold both the Power and Home buttons at the same time for at least 10 seconds.
2. Don’t release the buttons until you see the Apple logo showing on the screen. And let the iPhone start up as normal.
Note: A hard reset is not 100% work and it may cause data loss!
Way 3: Fix iPhone White Screen of Death by Entering DFU Mode
If a hard reset can’t fix the iPhone white screen problem, the next step is to enter DFU mode and factory reset your iPhone that result in a complete reset of your phone’s data (contacts, videos, images, etc.). In this case, you can’t avoid to lose your data if you don’t have a backup(1-Click to Backup iPhone Data on Computer). Follow the steps below to enter DFU mode and restore your iPhone.
1. Connect your iPhone to your computer where iTunes is running.
2. Press the Power button for about 3 seconds.
3. Press both the Power button and the Home button together for about 10 seconds.
4. Release the ‘Power’ button, but keep pressing on the ‘Home’ button for another 15 seconds.
5. If you are successful, iTunes will display a popup that says that it has detected an iPhone in recovery (DFU) mode.
6. Select Restore on iTunes.
When the restore process is finished, set up your iPhone as a new device. But this method will clear all your settings and data on your iPhone. So, you’d better think about it before trying this method.
Tips: Avoid iPhone Stuck on White Screen of Death
1. Do not extremely use your iPhone because extra stress on the battery and other hardware of your device may cause it getting stuck on white screen of death.
2. Shut down your iPhone regularly and then turn it on after several seconds. This simple action will minimize the chances of iPhone white screen of death.
3. Always use an iOS cleaning tool like iPhone Data Eraser to free up space on your iPhone and make more room for other important files.
4. Update your iOS device to the latest official iOS 10.X version especially if your device has a beta version now.
5.Install an anti-virus app on your device and do not install any third-party apps from unknown sources, this can prevent your iPhone far from different kinds of viruses.
January 29, 2018, 3:00pm EDT
With iPhone owners rushing to get their batteries replaced, wait lists at the Apple Genius Bar have been getting longer and longer. But if you don’t want to wait, you can actually replace the battery yourself.
Long story short, Apple has admitted that your iPhone will actively slow itself down if it has an old, degraded battery. To get back that lost performance, though, users are recommended to replace the battery with a fresh, new one.
The only problem is that there’s a wait list at pretty much every Apple Store. You could try a local Authorized Service Provider, but there’s still a good chance you’ll be waitlisted there as well. And it might be a while until things settle down.
Some patient iPhone owners might be able wait it out, but if you want your battery replaced right now, your best option is to replace it yourself. It may seem like a daunting task, but it’s more doable than you think, and just as cheap. I personally decided to lose my iPhone-tinkering virginity and try it out on my wife’s iPhone 6. Here are my thoughts on the process.
The Parts and Tools Are Easy to Come By (and They’re Cheap)
Obviously, before you replace the battery in your iPhone, you’ll need the proper tools and a new replacement battery. Luckily, iFixit sells battery replacement kits for most iPhones, which include the new replacement battery along with all the tools you’ll need to get the job done.
The best part is that these kits aren’t that much more expensive than what Apple charges. The iPhone 6 kit costs around $37 once you factor in shipping charges, while Apple charges $30. Paying seven extra dollars isn’t too shabby in order to avoid a weeks-long wait.
Plus, iFixit also offers extremely thorough how-to guides on replacing the battery, all the way down to showing close-up photos of the process. So even if you’ve never done something like this before, these guides take you through the process step by step.
It’s Mostly Screws and Connectors
Don’t get me wrong: the circuitry and assembly inside an iPhone is no joke, and some repairs can be really difficult. But when it comes to replacing the battery, you’ll mostly be dealing with screws and connectors, with a little bit of adhesive. Nothing that you’ll be dealing with is soldered down or permanently connected to anything, so you can put the soldering iron and other heavy-duty tools back in the drawer.
As for the adhesive, the battery is secured using 3M Command Strip-esque adhesive, which can cause headaches if they break as you’re removing them (more on that later). There is also some adhesive around the edge holding down the display assembly on newer iPhones, but a little applied heat to loosen it up makes the job a bit easier.
Other than that, you just have screws holding down the battery connector cover, as well as the display assembly cover. Once those things are removed, you simply pop off the connectors to the display assembly and the battery.
Some Steps Can Be Tricky
Screws and connectors are easy, but as I mentioned above, some steps (like the adhesive) can be a bit rocky.
First, if you have an iPhone 7 or newer, you’ll need to apply some heat around the edge of the phone to soften up the adhesive that glues the screen to the rest of the phone, but don’t worry—the iFixit guide shows you how to do this. As for the iPhone 6s, it has a small amount of adhesive around the edge, but not enough to require heat (although it wouldn’t hurt). The iPhone 6 and older don’t have any adhesive around the edge.
Starting with the iPhone 7, Apple began waterproofing its iPhones by upgrading the adhesive seal around the edge. Once you break that seal, you’ll still be able to reassemble the iPhone without a problem, but the seal around the edge will no longer be watertight. Thankfully, you can buy new adhesive from iFixit and replace the seal if you want to keep the waterproofing, but it’s not required by any means, and there’s no guarantee like you’d get from official Apple service.
As for the adhesive holding the battery down, there are tabs at the bottom that you slowly pull on to remove the adhesive strips, just like you would when removing a 3M Command Strip. The only problem is that they’re extremely thin and prone to breaking off, especially when they get snagged on a nearby piece of metal.
When that happens, you have to resort to heating up the back side of the device to soften up the adhesive and then slowly pry the battery off, making sure not to bend it too much—lithium-ion batteries are fairly dangerous, since they contain harmful chemicals and can possibly light on fire if punctured or damaged in any way.
Don’t let that scare you, though, as a little bending is fine and you can severely decrease any risks by completely discharging the battery before you bust open your iPhone. Just be sure to take your time and try not to go all Bruce Lee on the battery when trying to remove it.
Take Your Time, Do Your Research, and Just Follow Directions
Replacing the battery in your iPhone definitely isn’t easy, but it’s certainly doable. And it definitely doesn’t require a certified professional with years of experience.
As long as you take your time, do your research (like reading through the guides and watching the accompanied videos), and just follow directions, you can replace the battery in your iPhone without a problem. And of course, a little bit of determination goes a long way.
After you successfully do it once, it gets easier the next time. Soon you’ll be replacing all your friends’ and family’s iPhone batteries and may even become your town’s local hero.
July 6, 2016 – Alexander Vo
Updated March 2019
What is a UPS?
An uninterruptible power supply (UPS) by design is hardly ever meant to be used as a power replacement. UPS batteries provide just enough juice to act as a safety net for your data and hardware. With emergency benefits ranging from a few seconds to a couple of minutes of extra power.
In a power outage, a UPS acts as a backup battery system protecting your equipment as well as your data. Although it won’t provide power indefinitely, it’ll help keep computers running long enough for your backup generators to kick in. Providing some valuable time to at least save your work, thus avoiding a disaster at having to start all over on your projects or tasks. Many companies who do not feel comfortable with handling all of this in-house often reach out to companies that offer disaster recovery as a service to assist with planning/designing, architecting and deploying, and fully managing a custom DRaaS solution according to your specific budgetary and system data needs.
All batteries eventually need replacing as the charge capacity slowly decreases over time. It’s recommended to perform maintenance on your UPS batteries once every six months to ensure they’re still functioning properly.
Bad batteries may show signs of a bumpy exterior and can end up bulging right out of their sockets! This typically occurs when the circuit in the battery unit that keeps the battery charged is too high. It happens to all batteries when the heat-up and cool-down cycles fluctuates extensively. The batteries eventually end up “cooked” from high usage.
What signs to watch for when replacing a UPS battery
Checking the integrity of your batteries begins with understanding the charging voltage, temperature, and lifetime usage of the batteries. When these units stray or fluctuate outside of these parameters, it will immediately deteriorate battery life. The first step to maximizing battery life is to adjust and maintain those conditions to their optimal levels.
Many data center services can completely re-calibrate or adjust the charging circuits accordingly so that the root of the problem is addressed. Batteries should always have the correct charging voltage that it’s designed to hold before replacing them. This will help maximize the battery lifespan to meet the normal three to five-year replacement cycle, instead of the unusual five to eight months.
A few factors to avoid are:
- Pairing a charging circuit that is a few volts too high within an environment
- Batteries becoming above 85 degrees
- Sticking it in a closet or someplace that accumulates dust easily
Data Centers to the Rescue
An advantage of using a data colocation center is through remote battery monitoring services. With technicians that possess years of battery service experience, they can measure voltage as well as the internal resistance of the batteries to verify current conditions. All these factors will end up exacerbating how quickly the batteries will fail if unchecked.
A qualified technician will make sure to take a few precautions into account when dealing with these units such as:
- Have the charging circuit calibrated correctly
- Best practices for housing the batteries to maximize battery life
- Provide plenty of ventilation/cleaning to keep it in prime conditions at all times
Many times they can spot alarming battery conditions immediately within initial inspections. When problems arise, a service request follows and immediately a technician finds and replaces the batteries while adjusting correct calibrations.
Need a hand and don’t have a data center nearby? Check out how to properly maneuver your way with the right mindset on how to replace your UPS batteries:
If any case, you want to have someone review every battery with a comprehensive report. Analyze not only the patterns from the battery strings, but also potential threats and trends. Knowing ahead of time is really the next step in battery care.
Try to move beyond simply detecting and responding to current problems. Eventually, you want to be able to find the problems before they find you.
Interested in moving to a data center? Wowrack has just the customized plan for you, and the experienced technicians to ensure a painless and successful migration. Contact us today to discuss how we can help you.
David Hobbs helped make these videos
We are still working to obtain content for your car, however the video above is believed to have similar characteristics as your car.
The video above shows you how to replace the battery in your 2012 Toyota Prius V. We recommend changing the battery in Toyotas every 4 years. Although some batteries last much longer, most batteries begin breaking down chemically after four years, so you could experience dimmer headlights and other negative effects before you have a dead battery in your Prius V that you need to replace.
Replacing the battery in your Prius V involves removing the terminals. When you reconnect the terminals, your radio presets are likely to be cleared out. In some Prius Vs, you may need to re-enter a security code to get your radio to work again. Check for this code in your owners manual – it will usually be either a sticker or small card in the booklet. If you can’t find it, call Toyota and they will give you the code for free. In many Toyotas, the transmission “learns” how you drive over time and makes adjustments, so you may experience altered driving dynamics as your car re-learns your driving style after changing the battery.
Other videos you might find helpful
On many cars, the high beam bulb runs at reduced power during the day – check ’em and change ’em!
2012 Toyota Prius V 1.8L 4 Cyl.
Animals love the sweet smell of antifreeze, too bad it’s toxic! Fix your minor leaks
2012 Toyota Prius V 1.8L 4 Cyl.
Learn where your air filter is located and how to determine if it needs to be changed.
2012 Toyota Prius V 1.8L 4 Cyl.
Is the clock in your car ahead or behind? Learn how to set it here!
2012 Toyota Prius V 1.8L 4 Cyl.
There’s no reason to check the washer fluid level without adding some – see how to do it here!
2012 Toyota Prius V 1.8L 4 Cyl.
There are several reasons the CMOS battery needs to be replaced in your computer. This page provides information on why you would need a replacement, and the steps to fix it.
Why do I need to replace my CMOS battery?
- Computer is losing its time or date settings.
- An error or alert message, like the following, is displayed when the computer boots.
- CMOS Read Error
- CMOS Checksum Error
- CMOS Battery Failure
- System battery voltage is low
If any of the issues or messages above are encountered, you likely need to replace the CMOS battery. The process to replace it is detailed in the following sections.
Locate your CMOS battery
When inside your computer, make sure you are aware of ESD and its dangers.
Open the computer case and find the battery on the motherboard. Verify it is accessible and can be removed. Today, most computers use a coin cell CMOS battery, like the CR2032 battery shown in the picture.
Some CMOS batteries may be held down by a metal clip or bar. The battery can be removed by sliding it out from under the clip. Do not bend this clip to get the battery out, as a bent clip can result in the new battery not staying in the socket.
If you cannot locate the CMOS battery, refer to the motherboard documentation or contact the computer manufacturer. If you no longer have the documentation for the motherboard, it’s likely you can find it online.
With some computers, you may need to disconnect cables, remove drives, or remove other parts of the computer to get full access to the CMOS battery.
Obtain battery information
Unfortunately, most manufacturers do not list the exact type and model of the CMOS battery. Once you have located the battery, we recommend you write down its specifications (voltage, chemistry, wiring). If possible, remove the battery and take it to a retail location.
- Additional buying information is on our battery buying tips page.
For most computers, the model of the battery is CR2032.
Removing the battery
If your computer is using a coin cell battery, removing the battery is relatively simple. Use your fingers to grab the edge of the battery and pull it up and out of the socket holding it in place. Some motherboards have a clip holding the battery down. If your computer’s motherboard has this clip, you may need to use one hand to move the clip up and the other hand to pull the battery out.
When inside your computer, make sure you are aware of ESD and all its potential dangers.
Unfortunately, not all CMOS batteries are removable. Some manufacturers only allow a replacement battery to be added. If your computer does not have a coin cell battery, refer to your documentation or contact your computer manufacturer for further assistance.
If your computer’s motherboard does not have a removable battery, you need to set a jumper on the motherboard to install the new battery.
Insert the new battery
After purchasing a new battery, remove the old battery and replace it with the new battery. Some computers may not have a removable battery, for these computers insert the new battery into the secondary battery socket on the motherboard.
Enter CMOS values
Once the battery has been replaced, turn on the computer and reset the CMOS values to the defaults. After the values have all been entered, make sure to save the settings before exiting. Many CMOS setups allow you to press a key, such as F10, to save values and exit with one action.
If you continue to receive the error after following all the steps above, this is a sign of a more serious issue. The most likely causes are a bad power supply or bad motherboard. You may need to look into replacing the power supply or the motherboard to resolve the issue. At this point, we would recommend taking your computer to a computer repair shop to have them diagnose the issue.
My name is Fernando. I am a Microsoft Independent Advisor. I am here to guide you with a recommendation on the information you are seeking.
Here are a couple of links that might guide you through what you are wanting to do.
Please let me know if this information helps or need further guidence.
8 people were helped by this reply
Did this solve your problem?
Sorry this didn’t help.
Great! Thanks for marking this as the answer.
How satisfied are you with this reply?
Thanks for your feedback, it helps us improve the site.
How satisfied are you with this response?
Thanks for your feedback.
Windows Insider MVP 2018-current and Moderator
Dell Inspiron 5590 – i5 10210U/12GB DDR4/ 4GB Nvidia MX230/ 512GB nvme
5 people were helped by this reply
Did this solve your problem?
Sorry this didn’t help.
Great! Thanks for marking this as the answer.
How satisfied are you with this reply?
Thanks for your feedback, it helps us improve the site.
How satisfied are you with this response?
Thanks for your feedback.
Hi Martin, you can clean install Windows 10 at any time, you don’t have to worry about a Product Key or Digital Licence, Activation will be automatic and it will not cost you anything !
Since you previously had Windows 10 installed and activated on that PC during the installation process skip the steps which ask for a product key and select the option ‘I am Reinstalling Windows 10 on this PC’, and activation will not be an issue, your PC will have a digital entitlement stored on the Microsoft Activation Servers
Make sure you install the same Edition of Windows 10 (Home, Pro . . . etc.) you previously had installed to avoid Activation issues
Click this link:
to download the Media Creation Tool (Click on Download Tool Now), with that you can download the latest Windows 10 ISO (Select Create Installation Media for Another PC), you can create a bootable USB flash drive (min 8GB) using that tool
Then, Boot your PC from the Installation Media you just created (change Boot Order in your BIOS) to begin installing Windows 10
If you have problems booting from a boot disc, you may have UEFI BIOS:
Insert the Bootable Installation Media, then go into your BIOS and make the following changes:
1. Disable Secure Boot
2. Enable Legacy Boot
3. If Available enable CSM
4. If Required enable USB Boot
5. Move the device with the bootable disc to the top of the boot order
6. Save BIOS changes, restart your System and it should boot from the Installation Media
Power to the Developer!
MSI GV72 – 17.3″, i7-8750H (Hex Core), 32GB DDR4, 4GB GeForce GTX 1050 Ti, 256GB NVMe M2, 2TB HDD
Or will I just have to replace the battery and all my data will still be there as soon as I put the new one in?
It’s not a problem with the harddrive or anything, just my laptop’s telling me to consider replacing my battery soon.
Any data already saved will still be there but any thing you are working on and have not saved will be lost. Saving regularly and watching your battery is the best way not to have the laptop do a hard shut down. Hard shut downs can cause start up files for the operating system to become corrupt.
Run the laptop off the power adapter charger, you can do that 24/7 except for when needing to be mobile and it will hurt nothing. It also will not over charge the battery as the charge is shut down when the battery reaches a full 100% charge and it runs off the wall outlet power threw the power adapter.
You should always back up your important files to a external media on a regular schedule so not to lose them if the operating system was to crash or the hard drive failed and if you use PC’s long enough it will happen.
The answer is no – you will not lose your data and files. If your laptop is less than a year old you could try to get a replacement via the manufacturer. If it is more than a year old you can buy a replacement battery. You could either buy directly from the manufacturer or buy from other sources that may be a bit cheaper.
Blame me for not asking, but Apple should be more upfront about how repairs can save old iPhones
Share this story
- Share this on Facebook
- Share this on Twitter
Share All sharing options for: I got my iPhone’s battery replaced, and I’m angry Apple didn’t tell me to sooner
The iPhone 6S Plus from 2015 — old tech, but more than useable (with a new battery) Photo by The Verge
Two weeks ago, I went to an Apple Store and had a new battery put in my iPhone 6S. The very next day, I realized how unusable my old battery had been making my phone.
The repair restored functionality that had been seeping away so slowly I hadn’t really registered the loss. Apps now load when I tap them, not when they feel like it. The keyboard doesn’t freeze when I try to reply to emails in Outlook. My phone no longer clings to its charging cable like it’s a hospital drip, and the battery itself has stopped taking surprise nosedives from 40 percent charge down to zero when I have the temerity to go outside in the cold. (Yes, cold weather kills batteries.) The trust is back in my relationship with my phone, but as a result, I trust Apple a lot less.
The only reason I got the replacement was because of the debacle last December when a developer discovered that iOS upgrades were slowing down old iPhones. It seemed to confirm the persistent rumor that Apple throttles outdated handsets to force users to upgrade. The company’s PR department, stung into action by the bad press, said that Apple had been slowing down devices, but only to save them from their own worn-out batteries.
Apple explained that wear and tear on components meant it had to choose between giving old iPhones lower performance and more stability (by stopping unexpected shutdowns caused by degraded batteries), or the same performance and less stability. It opted for the former, but without telling customers what it was doing. Cue the outrage and Apple’s apology: cut-price battery replacements and a software update that lets users choose between performance and stability.
It’s a good way to say sorry, yes, but it also shows how badly Apple has been treating its customers — and how it can do better.
Before I got my new battery, I was planning to upgrade my iPhone this year. Now I’ll wait until at least 2019. The $30 replacement fee saved me hundreds of dollars and stopped environmental waste, so why didn’t Apple tell me about it sooner? I pay for AppleCare, which is supposed to help preserve my phone, but the option to replace its battery was never mentioned to me before December, and definitely not when I’ve gone to upgrade old iPhones in the past.
If you’re reading this and thinking, “You idiot, why would it tell you?” Well, you’re right. I know companies aren’t my friends and that no major smartphone manufacturer makes performance-saving repairs part of their sales pitch. Most of the industry runs on slim margins and high sales volume, so they need you to upgrade. Apple’s omission isn’t a surprise.
But that doesn’t mean it’s not bad, especially for a company that makes a huge profit on each phone it sells; that touts its green credentials whenever it can (Apple’s latest ads claim the iPhone is “zero waste”); and that prides itself on customer satisfaction. As the company said in its apology note: “We’ve always wanted our customers to be able to use their iPhones for as long as possible.” So why not make repairs easier?
Again, you can laugh at me for being naive. But what do you have to lose by at least being angry about this and demanding change? Do you really think Apple deserves more of your money?
Apple’s response to customers’ annoyance has been laudable for the industry, but it also shows it could be encouraged to do more. Smartphone technology has plateaued, and the trend is for us to hang on to our phones longer. This means repairs and replacements are going to become increasingly worthwhile. Apple should be more upfront in telling its customers what they can do to keep their current handset alive, rather than only pushing them toward an upgrade. This is a company that claims it always has its users’ best interests at heart, so why not prove it? It’s allowed users to turn off throttling in older phones and introduced battery service warnings, but December’s outrage shows this isn’t enough, and the company’s battles against the “right to repair” movement are the opposite of helpful.
Changes to how Apple advertises battery replacements would encourage us to think about our smartphones differently. Not as disposable items (an approach that’s causing huge environmental damage) but as something closer to a car: a useful object that can and should be maintained. When it announced its battery replacement scheme last December, Apple said it wanted to “regain the trust of anyone who may have doubted Apple’s intentions.” I think there’s more it can do.