Going back and forth may not get you places in real life, but it sure does when you’re crocheting in rows. When you crochet rows, you need to turn your work, make your turning chain, and start back across the row.
With a starting row of 16 single crochet stitches, you can crochet a row of stitches:
Turn your work to prepare for the next row.
Chain 1 (ch 1; turning chain for single crochet).
Insert your hook from front to back underneath the top two loops of the first stitch.
Wrap the yarn over the hook (yo).
Draw your yarn through the stitch.
Wrap the yarn over the hook.
Draw your yarn through the two loops on the hook.
Now you have one single crochet in the second row completed, and one loop remains on the hook.
Work one single crochet stitch in each single crochet stitch from the previous row all the way to the end.
Make sure to count your stitches when you get to the end of the row. You should have exactly the same number of stitches in the second row as in the first.
Working a practice crochet swatch helps you figure out new stitches and start making them like a pro. Use worsted-weight yarn (it’s easiest to work with) and a size H-8 hook to make a foundation chain approximately 4 inches long and then chain 1 for your turning chain. Work as many rows of single crochet as you need to until you feel comfortable with the new stitch.
Some patterns like to change things up and may tell you to insert your hook in a different place in the previous row. But if no specific instructions are given, always work the stitches in each subsequent row under the top two loops of the stitch in the previous row. This is the best way to create a smooth, even fabric.
Rozeta crochet-a-long was definitely the biggest event in my designer’s life last year. Thousands of people all over the world joined me and Scheepjes in the Rozeta journey. And thousands of lovely Rozeta blanket have been created. New pictures arrive to my social media feeds every day. And every day my heart is melted with quiet happiness.
|Photo credit: Evelien van der Drift|
Most of the Rozeta’s are used as blankets. But some of them were turned into rugs, pillows… and wall hangings! I’ve received quite a few messages with questions about how to mount Rozeta on a wall.
To be honest I didn’t do it myself, and all my samples are proudly kept at Scheepjes HQ. The Rozeta, as any other crochet piece, can be just hang onto the wall, but because it is big and heavy, it can stretch a lot and lose its shape. That’s why a certain kind of frame is needed for mounting.
Some CAL followers mounted their blankets and shared pictures on Facebook and Instagram. One of them was Evelien van der Drift. She kindly gave me permission to republish her step-by-step pictures on my blog, with short description for each step.
How to Mount a Crochet Blanket: Tutorial
Evelien used an old board from under the mattress and metal wire. This kind of boards with holes can be found in the building stores. The holes make it easy to weave in the wire, and also keep the board light weight.
Step 1. First Evelien cut the board to match the size of the Rozeta. Because crochet fabric is stretchy, the border should not be much smaller than the blanket – just enough to wrap the edges of the blanket and to pull it reasonably, without destroying the texture of the stitches.
In the video tutorial below you will learn how to make a crochet turn so that you can start a new row.
Turning your crochet work can be a confusing one seen as there are things to consider such as which way to turn it and where do you put your working end of the yarn?
I have covered these things in this video tutorial so that the crochet turn will no longer be an issue for you.
It is very easy to do and it is a short video on how to turn your crochet so go watch it then you can move on with your work.
Tip: If you use this crochet turn technique then be sure to keep using it right throughout your work at each end of a row so that your edges look the same.
Crochet Turn – To Make a New Row Video Tutorial
An updated classic covering the latest techniques and trends in crocheting.
Are you hooked on the art of crochet? Looking for a fun new hobby that you can take with you virtually anywhere? Crocheting For Dummies, 2nd Edition gives you easy-to-understand instructions on how to choose the right tools, create basic stitches, and finish off your work to make beautiful pieces of art. From learning to create consistency with gauge swatch to decoding crochet patterns, symbols, and diagrams, this easy-to-follow guide is all you need to start creating beautiful designs in no time!
This revised edition contains completely new content, including fresh new patterns, stitches, and techniques reflecting crocheting styles from around the world.
Plus, it’s packed with new and refreshed photos and line art throughout, along with step-by-step instructions that will easily guide you from your first stitch to your first sweater.
A new section covering common crocheting mistakes and how to correct them.
Crocheting with eco-awareness: using organic yarns, as well as free trade and sustainably sourced fibers.
The best resources for purchasing supplies, as well as choosing and buying patterns.
Whether you’re a first-time crocheter or looking to expand your skills, Crocheting For Dummies, 2nd Edition gives you the skills, techniques, and confidence to crochet like a pro.
I’m the Crochet Designer, Teacher & Video Producer of Crochet Hooks You.
I taught myself how to crochet when I was a young girl and quickly picked up how to crochet the granny square and got hooked. Read More.
The double crochet (abbreviated dc) is one of the most common crochet stitches and is about twice as tall as a single crochet. (You can read about single crochet in How to Make a Single Crochet.) A fabric made of all double crochet stitches is fairly solid but not stiff and is great for sweaters, shawls, Afghans, placemats, or any number of other home decor items. You can also combine the double crochet stitch with other stitches to produce many interesting patterns and textures.
First things first: Row 1
The following steps set you up to work your first double crochet stitch:
1. Make a foundation chain by doing 15 chain stitches (ch 15). (Check out How to Crochet the Chain Stitch if you need to.)
2. Chain 3 more stitches for the turning chain. (Get the scoop in How to Crochet a Turning Chain.)
Now for your first double crochet stitch:
1. Yarn over the hook (yo), which you can read about in How to Yarn Over in Crochet.
Remember to yarn over from back to front.
2. Insert your hook between the 2 front loops and under the back bump loop of the fourth chain from the hook (see Figure 1a).
Figure 1: Beginning a double crochet stitch.
3. Yarn over the hook.
4. Gently pull the wrapped hook through the center of the chain stitch, carrying the wrapped yarn through the stitch.
Now, you should have 3 loops on your hook (refer to Figure 1b).
5. Yarn over the hook.
6. Draw your yarn through the first 2 loops on your hook (see Figure 2a).
Figure 2: Drawing your yarn through the loops.
7. Yarn over the hook.
8. Draw your yarn through the last 2 loops on the hook (refer to Figure 2b).
One double crochet (dc) stitch is complete. You should have one loop remaining on your hook.
To finish your first row of double crochet, work 1 double crochet stitch in each successive chain stitch across the foundation chain, beginning in the next chain of the foundation chain as Figure 3a shows. You should have 16 double crochet stitches in Row 1 (counting the turning chain as the first double crochet).
Figure 3: Finishing the first row of double crochet.
Take a look at Figure 3b to see what the end of the first row of double crochet looks like.
Turn around and begin again: Row 2
To work the second row of double crochet, follow these steps:
1. Turn your work so that the back side is facing you.
2. Chain 3 (ch 3; for the turning chain).
3. Yarn over the hook (yo).
4. Skipping the first stitch of the row directly below the turning chain, insert your hook in the next stitch (see Figure 4a).
Figure 4b shows you the wrong place to insert your hook.
Figure 4: Inserting hook for the first stitch of second row.
5. Repeat Steps 3 through 8 from the previous section in each of the next 14 double crochet (dc) stitches. Be sure to yarn over before inserting your hook in each stitch.
6. Work 1 double crochet in the top chain of the previous row’s turning chain (see Figure 5).
You should have 16 double crochet stitches in Row 2 (counting the turning chain as 1 double crochet).
Figure 5: Insert the hook in the top chain of the turning chain.
Repeat these steps for each additional row of double crochet. Continue until you feel comfortable working this stitch. Figure 6 shows you how rows of double crochet look as a fabric.
Figure 6: Several rows of double crochet.
Don’t work a stitch into the first stitch of the row after the turning chain. Doing so produces an extra stitch, and if you continue to add a stitch in each row, your design gets wider and wider as it gets longer and longer. Be sure to count your stitches frequently to make sure that you haven’t inadvertently gained (or lost) any stitches along the way.
Sometimes, especially when you’re working with bulky yarn or a larger than usual hook, the turning chain on a double crochet row leaves a gap at the beginning of the row. To get a neater edge, try chaining 2 instead of 3 stitches for the turning chain.
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In this post you will find videos, written instructions, and photos teaching you how to turn your crochet rows without a starting chain. I am not a fan of the starting chain in many cases, because it leaves a space between the chain and the next stitch. So here is how I start my rows. I have shown sc, hdc, and dc, at the end of the dc written instructions I tell you how to alter it for trc. For instructions on how to make the basic stitches, go here.
CHAINLESS ROW TURN, SINGLE CROCHET
After finishing a row, remove hook, turn work, and put hook back through loop.
Make a sc in first st
insert hook into first st (last st of previous row)
Yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook)
Yarn over, pull through both loops
continue working row
CHAINLESS ROW TURN, HALF DOUBLE CROCHET
Start off by making the sc row turn (remove hook, turn work, replace hook, sc in first st)
there is one loop on the hook, and two loops coming off that loop; insert hook into second loop (the one farthest from the hook)
yarn over, pull though one loop (two loops on hook)
yarn over pull through both loops
continue working row
CHAINLESS ROW TURN, DOUBLE CROCHET
After finishing a row, remove hook, turn work, and put hook back through loop. Pull loop up a bit, and place finger on loop. Hold the loop on the hook so that it does not move. Yarn over with the loop
NOT with the working yarn as usual. Continue making dc as normal
insert hook into first st (last st of previous row), yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook)
yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook)
yarn over, pull through both loops
continue with row *this same technique can be used for treble crochet by adding another yarn over at the beginning of the stitch and continuing to make a treble as opposed to a double.
©Copyright 2013 Jessie Rayot / Jessie At Home All my videos, patterns and posts are my own work. Do not copy them in any way. If you want to share this information with someone, share the link to this post. If you want to share on your own blog / website, then you may use the first photo in this post and link back to this post. You may not give away printed copies of this post. Thank you.
The single crochet (abbreviated sc) is the most fundamental of all stitches in crocheting. The compact single crochet stitch creates a tight, dense fabric. Learning how to make a single crochet will serve as the foundation for your crocheting ventures – as all stitches are typically variations of this core stitch. Now that you know how to single crochet, you can use this stitch over and over again, alone or in combination with other stitches:
The single crochet: Step-by-step instructions
Making a single crochet stitch is a process that involves creating a foundation chain and completing a series of yarn overs. Follow the steps below for detailed instructions on how to make a single crochet:
1 Crochet 17 chain stitches.
This step makes a foundation chain. You work your first row of stitches into this foundation chain.
2 Insert the hook from front to back into the second chain from the hook.
Be sure that you have the right side of the foundation chain facing you and your yarn hand holding the foundation chain.
3 With your yarn hand, wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook.
What you’ve just done is called a yarn over (abbreviated yo).
4 Rotate the throat of the hook toward you with your hook hand, and pull the hook with the wrapped yarn through the stitch.
You should have two loops on your hook.
5 With your yarn hand, wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook.
You completed another yarn over.
6 Rotate the throat of the hook toward you with your hook hand, and draw the hook with the wrapped yarn through both loops on the hook.
One single crochet is now complete, and one loop remains on your hook.
7 To work the next single crochet stitch and continue the row, insert your hook into the next chain stitch.
This step starts your second row of stitches.
8 Repeat Steps 3 through 6.
You’ve now completed the second stitch.
9 Work 1 single crochet stitch (sc) in each chain stitch (ch) across the foundation chain.
You should have 16 single crochet stitches, or one row of single crochet.
If you’re wondering what happens to your 17th chain stitch in single crochet, remember that you worked your first single crochet into the second chain from the hook. The skipped chain stitch is considered a turning chain that brings you up to the level needed to work your first stitch of the new row.
When you’re just starting out in crochet, some things can seem confusing but really just need a little bit of explaining on the why and how. Turning in crochet can seem perplexing. (Which way? Does it matter?) And fastening off in crochet even more so. Understanding how to turn in crochet and how to fasten off in crochet will help make your time crocheting more efficient, and result in a project that looks professional and consistent.
Here are some helpful tips on turning in crochet and fastening off your work.
Turning in crochet
It may not seem like it matters, but turning in crochet ought to be done consistently each time. That is, you should be turning the same way every time you turn to the next side. The turn creates a neat edge, which is important if you are joining two pieces or seaming garments.
When you reach the edge of your piece, chain one stitch. This is the turning chain. Yes, you can chain after you have turned but it’s really much easier and less awkward to do so before. Also, by chaining before you turn it is less likely your chain stitch will get twisted.
You must create a chain stitch before turning in order to elevate your stitches. If you are working a piece in single crochet, you will chain 1 stitch before turning. This single chain represents the height of the single crochet stitches you will work along the next row. If you are working in half-double crochet, chain 2. Double crochet stitches require 3 chain stitches at turning.
Turn your piece from right to left in a clockwise motion. If you are more comfortable turning in a counterclockwise direction, just make sure you are consistent. The turn is going to make a little bump along the side of your work, and again, we’re looking for uniformity.
Just starting out? Download The Beginner’s Guide to Crochet for free, which features step-by-step photo tutorials on how to crochet a chain, how to single crochet and how to double crochet. Also included is a handy guide to crochet abbreviations.
Fastening off in crochet
When you’re finally done with your work and ready to fasten off, do not make a chain stitch at the end of your row. Cut your yarn after you’ve made the last stitch and pull it through. Make it snug, but not overly tight, and weave it back into your work.
By doing this you’re ensuring that you’re final stitch remains a full stitch. I use to cut the yarn and pull it through the final loop on the hook, but this creates a little knot and doesn’t allow you to maintain a clean, finished line along the top edge of your piece.
After fastening off, weave your ends back through your work to hide them. This is done by essentially tracing the stitches with your yarn tail in one direction, and then back in the direction from which you began.
Learning about finishing techniques for many crafts is what will help turn your finished project into something polished and professional looking.
If you’re looking to improve your crochet finishing skills, check out Bluprint’s Crafty Crochet Embellishments. This class, taught by Linda Permann, is suitable to any skill level. It covers many basic stitches, pattern reading, and other techniques used to begin your project. She also covers finishing techniques, such as weaving in ends and blocking.
Crochet hooks – for such a simple tool, they inspire endless debate, and often loyalty. Inline vs. non-inline, pencil hold vs knife hold vs whatever it is that person over there is doing – it’s all good. You can buy them in any craft store, most little yarn stores, and even some major retailers… or you can make your own!
In any big box craft store in the US you’ll find Boyes and Bates hooks, and often a few Takumi bamboo hooks as well. Occasionally you’ll see Rosewood or specialty hooks, and depending on the store, the choices just keep expanding. You can get hooks that light up, hooks that are ergonomic, and hooks with interchangeable heads. And if you head over to etsy, there are people creating gorgeous handmade hooks. Not to mention the amazing Jimbo, who has a knack for making my jaw drop on every visit.
So what about making your own crochet hooks? I’ll admit I haven’t done it… yet. But Julia at Aberrant Crochet has been working on a Crochet Hook Challenge and it’s very inspiring! Those are her amazing hands on the right, and here’s her video on Crochet Hook Engineering:
Doesn’t she make it look fun? Julia and Aberrant Crochet are awesome, so be sure to check out her site. And there are other great tutorials out there as well:
- Wiki-How has a really good How to Carve a Crochet Hook Tutorial, with great photos and some really nifty tips – like using a pencil sharpener to shape your ends!
- On Cut Out and Keep, there’s a photo tutorial on making your own hooks from chopsticks! You won’t get the bigger sizes this way, but great info to have in an emergency! The photos are a bit blurry, but you still get the idea.
- On Serendipity Crochet, there’s a step by step tutorial on making your own hooks from dowels. Dowels are a great place to start because they are uniform and straight, and because they are so nice and long you can make your own cro-hooks and tunisian hooks too!
- If you’ve got wood turning or lathe experience, then making crochet hooks can get really fancy! On Turned Treasures there’s an in-depth look at how to make wood turned crochet hooks. We’re talking exotic hardwoods, baby… mmm.
- But if you aren’t ready to wield a pocketknife, knife carver, or lathe just yet, you can still get creative with your hooks. Create your own ergonomic set by covering them with polymer clay! The tutorial at Sew I See! is the best I’ve seen, and her results are so pretty. Make sure to mark the size on the end as shown though!
UPDATE! The amazing Jimbo himself visited and left this link, to his own AMAZING day by day guide to making a crochet hook! Do yourself a favor and check it out!
I’ve got a big collection of hooks, but suddenly I’m wishing for something a little more beautiful. It’s important to our enjoyment of crochet to pay attention to the tools we use – and how we use them! For wrist and hand health, it’s good to have tools that fit our hands and feel good, as well as giving the results and projects we love. Making your own crochet hooks, or working with an artisan who makes them, is a great way to feel even better about the art of crochet!
Be sure to check out and like the moogly Facebook page to get the latest updates, links, sneak peeks, and to order your own ooak moogly items – I’m taking commissions! Moogly is also on Pinterest, Twitter, and now Tumblr – come join the fun!
Many crochet blankets have been abandoned over the years, relegated to yard sales, thrift stores and basement storage. Bring those beauties out of hiding and put them to use. Here are 15 fabulous examples of crochet blankets that have been upcycled into stylish new items.
StoneMountainPrim turned a crochet blanket into a beautiful bell-sleeve crochet dress perfect for summer music festivals.
Lord von Schmitt rescues vintage crochet afghans and turns them into clothing and accessories for both men and women. I love his crochet leg warmers, shorts and pants – but the onesies are my favorites! Here are two more from this artist:
UpTickChic does similar work and says, “I made these from vintage afghans that I laundered at hot settings before sewing (to make them machine washable) and then fashioned into comfy elastic-waist shorts.”
Darrylblack took a granny square blanket and turned it into a buttoned crochet cape with unique “dreadlocks” fringe. This upcycling artist makes a lot of great things. Here is another upcycled blanket crochet cape:
MountainGirlClothing takes crochet granny square blankets and turns them into crochet shrugs. She also makes other things like this crochet blanket cowl:
TiffanysCraft found this crochet blanket, which she upcycled into a great textured crochet poncho. She then made matching crochet wristers and hat to match.
Upcycled oversized crochet blanket jacket “Made by Woods Fiber Goods using an upcycled crochet blanket which was disassembled then carefully reassembled into a warm and oh so cozy one of a kind piece with a rustic appeal.”
This striped upcycled crochet flower shawl is by ILoveMyAuntDebbie who shares, “This colorful, soft shawl started life as just another hand made afghan, doomed to a sad forgotten life at the resale shop. Luckily, Aunt Debbie came to the rescue. The yarn is soft against the skin, and the fringes give it a happy feeling. I adorned it with an heirloom doily and yellow yarn flowers; all sewn on securely.” She also made this great upcycled crochet blanket poncho:
Yes, indeed, this crochet romper was made by Bree Rose from a single crochet blanket. She describes it as a sexy tomboy piece and says, “Rope straps and bow detail add an exaggerated, innocent look.”
Crochet blanket jacket free pattern by KatiDCreations. This one isn’t upcycled per se but it serves the dual purpose of being a jacket when it’s buttoned and a lap blanket when it’s not.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in each ch across. (40 sts)
Row 2 – 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across.
Row 13: Ch 1. Do NOT turn. Working along end, work 12 sc evenly. At corner ch 1, sc in same sp. Working along beginning edge, work 40 sc evenly to end. At corner ch 1, sc in same sp. Working along end, work 12 sc evenly. At corner ch 1, sc in same sp. Working along next edge, sc 40 evenly to beg. Join with sl st to first sc.
Its the one at row 13, its a rectangle base for a bag. I understand do not turn when its a circle based pattern, but not this one. Does it mean i crochet along the smaller edge of the rectangle then back round to the beginning of where i started?
Yes, that’s right. You are using a rectangle as a “circle”. It’s going to form the base of your bag, and you are going to start crocheting up the sides of the bag in the round. So you crochet all around the sides of the rectangle to create your first round. Then you will keep working in rounds until your bag is the depth you want.
3 ch sp (mainly written as chain 3 house) is the gap made through the ch3 within the earlier row. When you find yourself informed to work in an area, you insert the hook straight into the gap, now not between the threads as you normally do. While you work 2 stitches in the hole (or in some patterns it could ask you do do it in the subsequent stitch), simply insert the hook into the same situation a 2nd time. Squeeze both stitches into the identical situation. Now the following row isn’t written accurately. No marvel you’re confused. Punctuation is all most important when writing and studying patterns. ( ), * *, and can all be used interchangeably. You must not ever repeat utilizing them twice in the identical row. Here the primary ( should be a . The closing is at the period on the finish of the sentence. So, Rnd three ch1 2 dc in the ch 3 sp= squeeze them in there 4ch, and 1dc in 0.33 chain from hook (three ch, 1 dc in third ch from hook) (three ch, 1 dc in 1/3 ch from hook) 1 dc in first of three ch= go back to the first ch three that you simply made, this will likely make a free striking loop 2 dc in same three ch sp=this implies the chain three house the place you started. Now do it once more in the next chain three house and alternatively in each and every ch three area round.
Hey, I’m Andrea Lemire, the education coordinator here at the Lion Brand Yarn Studio. I’m going to show you some really cool techniques for beginning crochet, and hopefully, you’ll have as much fun as I have with it. Okay, lets get started.
So, now that you’ve finished your first row of whatever stitch you were working in, you do need to do what’s called turning, to get to the next row. And this happens at the end of every single row that you work, until the piece is as long as you want it to be. So, I’m all the way at the left side of my work now. If you’re left handed, it’s going to be the right side. So, now I need to make what’s called a turning chain, to get to the height that the next row’s going to be in. It’s different, depending on what stitch is coming next. Don’t worry about what stitch you just worked the last row in. All that matters is what the very next stitch you’re working is. If it’s a single crochet, I’m going to chain one. For the half-double, here, I would chain the second. For the double, I would chain the third. And for the triple, or the treble stitch, I would chain 4. So I’d have a really tall chain for the treble. But I’m working my next row in single crochet. So I’m gonna stick with a short chain of one. So now I can turn my work. So I’m just gonna flip it to go back towards the left for me, and now I’m ready to work my first stitch. To find it, you wanna look at the base of that turning chain you just made. And it’s the space closest to the right side of the fabric. When you’re looking at the tops of your stitches, and going in that first space, here, you want to make sure that you are seeing 2 pieces of yarn there. You only saw one when you were working your first row of stitches into your chain. But here, you should see 2. And the reason for that is, we want to go under the entire stitch. Which is made up of 2 pieces of yarn at it’s top. So now that I’m in it, I can pull my yarn fully under that stitch onto my hook. And then I can finish whatever stich I’m working. So, since I’m working the single, I’m just yarning over, and pulling through 2. So my next stitch, I wanna go in that next space. When I’m in it, check and make sure you are seeing those 2 pieces of yarn that you’re under. That’s the full top of that stitch. And I’m gonna work a single crochet, yarn over and pull it through. You have 2 loops. Yarn over, pull through both. And so, you wanna work in every space, all the way across your work. And when you go in each space, just make sure that you’re under the full top of that stitch. So those 2 pieces of yarn. So that’s turning your work. Again, that happens at the end of every row, for the rest of your piece.