How to Weave a Basket out of Wood
Things You’ll Need
- Nantucket basket mold
- 8-inch wooden disc base
- Reed staves
- Cane weavers
- Rubber band
- Cutting tool
- Two half-round rim pieces
- Wooden handle
- Two brass pins
- Two bone knobs
- Two washers
- Base plug
Nantucket baskets were originally made by sailors in Nantucket in the early 1700s. The sailors took up basket making to pass the time and made them from materials available on their ships. Nantucket baskets can be made with or without tops and are made using a special Nantucket basket mold. The baskets have a signature wooden base. Nantucket baskets can be made with a few materials available at craft stores and online.
Secure the 8-inch wooden base to the bottom of the Nantucket basket mold using the screw. The mold will hold the base in place while you insert staves and weave the cane into the basket base.
Cut reed staves to 8 inches in length with scissors. Sand the edges of the staves until they are smooth.
Dampen a stave and place it into a slot on the base in the mold. Continue placing staves all around the mold until every slot is filled with a stave. There should be an odd number of staves when you are done. The staves create a place to weave the cane in and out. Place a rubber band around the staves to hold them in place. The staves should be held in place by the rubber band until they are dry.
Soak cane weavers in hot water for 15 minutes. The cane will be flexible enough to weave once it has been properly soaked. Wet cane will also be easier on your hands.
Weave cane into the staves, using the standard over/under pattern. Continue weaving until you reach the top of the mold, leaving enough room for the rim at the top of the staves.
Remove the mold by unscrewing it from the base. Fill the screw hole with a base plug.
Trim the staves, leaving enough room at the top for the rim.
Cut two half-round pieces of rim and place them on the inside and outside edge of the basket. Glue to two pieces of rim together on the inside and outside. Trim any staves that are still visible above the rim with a cutting tool.
Nail the rim onto the staves. The rim should be tightly secured to the basket.
Drill a hole into each side of the basket. Attach the handle with brass pins, bone knobs and washers.
Engrave the wooden base of the basket with your initials and the year in which you made the basket.
Apply polyurethane to protect the basket. This will also give the basket a beautiful shine and finish.
If you make a mistake when weaving, undo the weave all the way back to the exact location of the mistake and start again from there.
Ever watch Chopped on the Food Network? This basket is the weaving version of “chopped for baskets”. I was cleaning the yard and had some scrap bamboo, privet, and coax cable and challenged myself to make some with them. I decided upon a round basket. I outline how to make this basket step- by- step in this video using these invasive species.
At first I was worried that it would end up back in the compost bin, however it actually turned out better than I expected.
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Watch the Full Tutorial in the Video
OR If you prefer to read- I’ve listed the major steps. You can always refer back to the video later or ask a question below if you get stuck on your project.
Gather the Materials
I chose to try to work with Bamboo, Privet and Cable. I ended up using a piece of grapevine at the end to make the handle.
Gather the Materials 0:30
Cut the spines for the basket
For this basket here is the formula that I used:
Desired Diameter + Desired Height * 4
For a 9″ wide basket that is 6″ tall
9″ + 6″ x 4″= 9 +24 = 33″
Cut the spines for the basket 2:29
Layout the spines
I put the 3 long spine under the 2 and half spines and bound them together.
Layout the spines 4:15
Weave using “over and under” pattern
Spread the spines out and use the thin end of the bamboo to weave over one spine and under the next. When you come to the end start with a new piece.
Weave using “over and under” pattern 6:19
Continue weaving until you reach the desired width
In this case it was 9 inches.
Continue weaving until you reach the desired width 8:02
Use a vine or wire for the transition
I used the coax cable to transition the bottom on the basket to the sides. I the video I show how to bend the spines without breaking them.
Use a vine or wire for the transition 10:16
Weave layers of color
I chose to weave with more green bamboo. For the next layer I split some of the privet to get the light grain of the wood for a contrast. After that I added some more bamboo, however this time I left the leaves in place. You can add other colorful trash if you choose to do so on your basket.
Weave layers of color 11:49
OPTIONAL: Add a handle
My son needed a new Easter egg basket so I added handle. The bamboo and privet would not bend so I used a scrap piece of wild grapevine. I used a smaller piece of grapevine to tie loose spines down and hold the handle in place.
Types of Woven Baskets
Basket weaving is an ancient craft that uses naturally grown materials and a few very simple tools.
Basket weaving is a great hobby that can add charm to your house and your own personal touch when you use the baskets you make as a gift.
Outlined below are some of the basic things you need to know to get started.
Tools of the Trade
Only a few simple tools are necessary in basket weaving.
- Good strong scissors and a sharp knife are needed for cutting and pointing the osiers.
- Side cutters work great for chipping off ends.
- A pair of round-nosed pliers are valuable for kinking the stakes before bending them, particularly when the angle has to be sharp.
- A bodkin is a pointed metal tool in a wooden handle. It is very helpful, both for making a space between woven work and for pushing a rod in position after the gap has been made. But, if necessary, you could use a good strong knitting needle instead of a bodkin.
Other useful items while working include a measuring tape, protective waterproof cloth to work on and clothes pins work great to hold your work if you get interrupted.
If you decide to go on to more advanced basket weaving, a rapping iron for pushing down the weaving rows would make a welcome addition. There are also specially made work boards to hold your baskets at a convenient angle to work on.
What are the Basics?
The principles of basket weaving are the same whether you work with willow or cane so that there is very little difference in the two techniques.
Young willow shoots are called osiers and are cut into rods of various colors and sizes to be used for basket making. They are prepared in a surprising number of different ways, some are cut when very thin, some allowed to grow thicker; some are stripped of their bark, some dried, some boiled, some steeped in water, some split. The result is that there are many weights available, suitable for both light and heavy work.
There is also an attractive range of natural colors too – from a gleaming white, to a more golden tan to a rich dark brown. Of course, though many people prefer to keep the natural country look, there is nothing to stop you from painting your baskets in bright colors.
Discover what types of basket weaving material your craft store stocks. Remember that for many articles you can, if necessary, substitute cane for willow and the results will be perfectly satisfactory. In general, willow osiers are somewhat heavier and thicker than most cane, so be careful to check that you have the right weight for the work that you intend to do.
For example, it would be pointless to try to make a substantial pet basket in a light cane because it would have none of the necessary body and firmness for such a shape. You would have to use much heavier material. On the other hand a small decorative table basket could be made in a lighter willow or cane without ill effects.
Most craft stores these days carry synthetic cane and this is a useful substitute for natural materials for some smaller items. Also, unlike willow and cane it does not have to be soaked and kept damp to make it flexible.
Stakes & Weavers
In all basket weaving you work with two basic weights. A heavy, thick osier or cane is used for the stakes, which form the skeleton and structure of the basket or container.
In one piece of work you may use more than one thickness of stake, heavy for the bottom of a basket and slightly lighter for the sides, for example.
But both of these will be thicker and stronger than the rods that will be used for the actual weaving. If the material you buy is graded by a number, then the difference between the stakes and the weaving rods is usually at least two sizes. The weaving rod is often referred to simply as a ‘weaver’.
Soaking & Dampening
Both stakes and weavers should be soaked thoroughly before using to make them easy to manipulate and to prevent them from breaking or cracking badly. After soaking for half an hour or so take the rods out of the water and wrap them up in a damp cloth for another short period of time.
Osiers that you intend to use for stakes should be kept straight during this process but weavers can be soaked in coils of about 3 yards long and only straightened out before you use them. You will find that, as you work on your basket making, the osiers may dry out too much, so have a damp cloth or sponge and bowl of water handy to remedy this.
It will also be necessary at some stages in the work to soak a half-finished piece. This would commonly be necessary when you have made a basket base and have inserted extra stakes (known as bye-stakes) into it and are then going to bend them up at right angles to form the skeleton for the basket sides.
It is obvious that the bottom of these stakes will have to be very malleable and damp so that they can be kinked with pliers and bent up without breaking. Extra dampening may similarly be necessary when you are about to bend down the ends of the stakes to make a final top border to your work.
Video Basket Weaving Series with John “Dog”
Buying a handmade willow basket can be very expensive. On the other hand, making your own will cost you little more than your time.
My two natural willow baskets are as beautiful as they are functional. I admire them every day in the house and when there’s wild edibles or apples to be collected, they serve the task perfectly. My friend John “Dog” Callister made the baskets for me and after using them I wanted to learn how to make my own.
A two year old willow basket
The last of the videos in the series is the one I think you should begin with. It shows what the basket looks like over time and how I use it to collect apples. It’s interesting to see how the bright yellow willow we began with changed to a russet but the soft grey held its colour.
The video follows with the last steps to finishing off a handmade basket including attaching the handle.
An Introduction to Basket Weaving
This is a sit-down casual chat with John “Dog” to discuss how much time and willow it takes to make a basket. It takes him just over an hour to make a small basket but students in his classes will take 2-3 hours.
Be prepared with 100 pieces of willow when you go into making a basket — it really takes that much!
Part 1: How to Weave a Willow Basket
This part outlines how to create the base of the basket. Tools you’ll need to create a basket include secateurs, a weight, needle nose pliers, and a fid.
Part 2: Building the sides of the basket
With the base complete, the second part continues with attaching the uprights and creating the sides of the basket. Finishing with a simple weave at the top, you’ll move on to part 3 to complete the project.
To see another of John Dog’s projects, head over to see how he makes simple willow Christmas wreaths.
Watch the video
Spit has always been considered a symbol of femininity andRussian beauty, that’s why hairstyles with various variants of braid weaving are relevant for many years. The braid of the basket is an original hairstyle that will be appropriate both in the office and at the party.
Most often the basket is a kind ofthe French pigtail. Step-by-step instructions for weaving French braid can be found in the section “Scythes”. The basket can be stacked like a bezel around the head, or can be assembled into an intricate knot. Fantasy may suggest other solutions. In the hairdresser’s art very much depends on creativity, and sometimes a departure from the rules makes it possible to create even more interesting solutions.
How to weave a braid of hair: step by step instructions
Before you begin to “build” a basket of braids, you must prepare all the necessary tools. To braid a braid, you will need:
- Comb with sharp teeth, which is convenient to grasp small strands;
- Hairpins, invisible, elastic bands and small hairpins that will help to fix drop-outs, short strands;
- Spray, varnish and spray with water.
If you are going to weave a decorative basket, prepare in advance flowers, ribbons or colored threads that you will weave as you work.
So, we go directly to the work process:
- As for most complex hairstyles, before weaving a basket of hair, it is necessary to moisturize the hair with a spray gun and comb them well.
- Divide the hair into two equal halves. For some hair styles, you can make the parting a little more on the right side.
- Further from the side with which the basket will begin (more often it is the right side), one must begin to weave the braid. It can be both traditional pigtail, and inverted.
- Note that the braid does not go the way it doeswe are accustomed – from top to bottom, and around the back of the neck to the forehead. After the braid reaches the parting, it is necessary to smoothly move to another part of the head and gradually weave the strands from the left half.
- After the braid is braided along the entire circumference, the free end must be carefully laid or hidden behind a wide border of the upper braid.
- If necessary, fix the result using studs.
How to weave a basket of hair in other ways
There is an interesting option, how to weavebasket on long hair. In this case, we must start the weaving from the vertex and spin a braid along a spiral. Depending on the fluffiness of the hair, up to six laps can turn out. Looks like a basket like a cap and can be decorated with rhinestones, flowers or multi-colored ribbons, woven into a braid.
Some masters weave a basket of two braids, where the end of the first braid is invisibly weaved into the beginning of the second. With a clever wicker guess where, what kind of braid, is almost impossible.
If the hair is long enough, you can experiment and lay out with braids different patterns on the head. This hairstyle looks very original.
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Harvesting honeysuckle vines in the fall or winter months will help to prevent snapping.
With the holidays sneaking up on us it’s time to start thinking about gift shopping. If buying overpriced trendy gadgets aren’t your thing, a gift basket may be what you need. Not only can you fill it with delicious fruit and candy, but you can deliver it in a honeysuckle basket you made yourself!
The first step is to get friendly with nature and collect your honeysuckle. You can usually find the vine wet areas like creeks, rivers, and marshes. They’re less brittle in the fall and winter months, so if you don’t want splinters in your fingers and all over your living rug it’s best to collect them when their sap is low. Or if you live in the city, you can do what normal people do and get it from Amazon without changing your pajamas.
Boiling the vines will make them more pliable and easier to weave.
Next, you’re going to boil the vines for 20-30 minutes to make them more flexible and to kill any bugs that may be on or in the bark. Giving someone a bug infested basket is just rude in the first place. Boiling them will also loosen up the bark so it’s easy to remove to have that smooth look to your basket.
While there are many ways to weave a basket, the under-over technique works best for this project.
Whether basket weaving is your niche or you don’t know anything about it, there are lots of books you can get online that outline the next steps. You can even get a guide that specifically tells you how to make baskets using honeysuckle vines. Once you’re done you’ll impress you friends with your basket weaving talent.
The end product should look like this, if not, simply call it abstract art.
To see the complete design process as well as other weaving projects, please visit Basket Weaving Fun.
Warp: the vertical plastic strands
Weft: the horizontal yarn strands
The vertical warps of the plastic cup should always have an even number. 25 would not work. Cut the plastic cup in half and then cut the halves in half and so on, so the maker should have some power of 2 number of vertical warps (for example, 2 1 =2, 2 2 =4, 2 3 =8, 2 4 =16, 2 5 =32, etc.)
There are two strands (wefts) of yarn that are woven around the plastic wefts in a horizontal direction. To weave, fold the yarn in half and place the folded end over one plastic warp. The two yarn strands should hang down outside the cup– one on each side of the plastic warp. Then take the left one and wrap it around the front of the plastic warp and then between the right side and around the back of the right plastic warp, and pull it through the right side of the right plastic warp. Repeat with the leftmost strand. The weave is horizontal but it slants slightly upward from left to right.
To make the weave slant downward from left to right the weaver has to hold the right strand up to pull the left strand around the front and between the right split and around the back. Then, the stand is under the right strand at the split.
(Video clip courtesy of Lori Hoover. Explanation, slightly modified, courtesy of Claudette Engblom-Bradley)
When I look around my home, I have all these beautiful baskets that I’ve woven for myself using raffia, fabric and even some like little birds nests made from other fibres, as well as gathered vines from nature.
Basket weaving is almost as old as human history, taking fibres from the landscape and creating something useful, practical and beautiful. There are many many variations of materials to use, stitches, designs, techniques and processes.
Sometimes I look at the beautiful baskets I use for taking to the farmers market, or the ones holding my yarns and fabrics, the broken yet still useful basket that my cat sleeps in beside the fire, the basket my parents used for the washing basket. These are intricate and amazing, they delight me in the way that someone’s mind and hand created it.
Often they look complicated, and out of my reach of achieveable-ness in terms of my skills, but the beautiful truth (I think) about baskets is that anyone can weave their own basket. Starting small of course is a way to begin, but once you have the fever of basket weaving inside you, it feels like ‘coming home’ and you have a hard time stopping.
So – how do you make your own basket? Easy actually, with this method that I use.
You might even have some supplies at home, without having to go and buy more. To begin I do often suggest you use what you have, to make do with materials, but of course – whatever you use for your basket will determine the structure and the method.
These ones here are made from raffia, which is a natural fibre from a palm tree. I dye it with natural plant dyes. It creates a structure, but is also soft and pliable, unlike say hard willow bark, for instance. What this means is that the basket you make will most likely be less rigid that a basket you’d use for your washing. More like a lovely basket as a fruit bowl, a lamp shade, a trinket platter, or a display on the wall.
What is raffia & where do I get it?
Raffia is the leafy fibre of a palm tree. It comes in various grades depending on it’s length and overall structure or quality. The longer pieces are good for the wrapping method, while shorter (lower grade) can be used as the core for your basket, like the bulk to fill the inside.
What about plastic or paper raffia? I have seen plastic raffia at yarn shops, that comes in one long spool so you can use it with a crochet hook, instead of a weaving needle. Real raffia itself does have a plastic-y like feel, but it’s a natural fibre that breaks down and decomposes back into the Earth, whereas plastic raffia is …. well… plastic. So keep this in mind, if this is important to you. Paper raffia is another option, not quite as strong, but an interesting alternative if you can’t find real raffia.
I get my raffia from String Harvest, as I know Cass imports fair trade materials, but you can also find it at regular art & craft shops, fabric supply shops, and even some floristry supply shops (florists use it to tie their bunches up). You can also find it on places like Etsy, that will be in your own country for shipping, etc.
But if you don’t want to buy raffia, unsure if you’ll even love the craft, then you can use fabric, string, twine, embroidery thread, ribbon. Almost anything like that will work.
Using the exact same method as my videos show, but different materials, textures, weights and weaves you get very different outcomes and looks. It’s a wonderful way to change things up, but not have to keep learning another how-to.
You could instead get some pieces of cloth and cut them up into strips, using thread or string the weave / stitch / wrap around strips of fabric. This does make a softer, less structured basket shape – but you could always use a length of thicker string or rope wrapped into the fabric to give it more stability.
All of these options make beautiful baskets, some are more structured than others, but with time, practice and patience you can learn how to manipulate the fibres to work under your hands how you’d like.
These videos show some simple stitches to inspire you, but I have a whole online course that take you from the very basics of how to begin right through to how to create patterns in your weaves, changing colours and making different shapes, as well as how to dye your raffia with common kitchen supplies.
crafts, DIYs and tutorials
- fall / autumn
- nature crafts
- straw weaving
- How to weave a simple grass basket
There are many ways to weave a grass basket. The following technique is just one of many. Every basket weaver has his/her own preferred method. You don’t have to do everything like it says in this tutorial. Grass basket weaving is so simple, you will get nice results no matter what. Dare to be creative!
long, blunt needle (buy here*)
Collect an armful of grass. You can use it as is or simply let it dry for a while. The longer the blades, the better. It works with shorter blades of grass too, but it might take a little longer.
Start with a small bundle of long grass blades. The bundle should be about as thick as your finger. Tie it together with the yarn on one end.
Wrap the yarn around the end a few fingers width.
Start to coil the grass like a snail. It can be a bit stubborn in the beginning. Maybe it helps if you loosen (or tighten) the yarn a little bit more.
Form a tight loop and tie it with the yarn.
Now the fun begins! The grass is coiled and stitched together with the yarn. (I like to twist the grass as I coil it, to give the basket more density, but this step is optional)
At this point you will need a long, blunt needle. (buy here*) To stitch the grass, wrap the yarn around the loose grass and stitch down through the grass coil just underneath the wrapped yarn. This is how the grass basket will get its stability.
The new yarn always passes through the grass and underneath the yarn. If the gaps between the stitches get too wide, just make an additional stitch.
Your bundle of grass should have the same thickness all throughout the basket. If it gets too thin, add a few new blades. It works best, if you hide the new blades in between the old ones. So the ends will stay hidden.
Work your way around the coil. Add new blades if your bundle gets too thin. Make extra stitches if the gaps get too wide.
Continue with the coil until the base has the diameter of the basket you want to make.
Take a look at your grass coil from both sides. Usually the stitches on the topside form a nice, neat pattern. The stitches underneath look a little more messy.
Before I start with the sides of the basket, I turn the coil upside down. That way the “neater” side will later be on the outside of the basket and the messier one will be on the inside.
Now you can start with the sides. For this you simply stop sewing the rounds next to each other, but start sewing them on top of each other. In the first round you can stitch them together a little off-center for a softer transition.
Always make sure that you grass basket is even. Sometimes you’ll have to bend the basket a little. If the walls are higher or lower in some places, it can help to stitch down the grass a little tighter (or looser) in that area.
If you are happy with the size of the grass basket, you can stop adding new blades into your bundle.
Once your bundle starts to get very thin, you can sew up the ends slightly on the inside of your grass basket.
Secure everything with a tight knot and cut off the excess blades.
And that is all you have to do to weave a simple grass basket! It is surprisingly sturdy and keeps its shape even months later. Grass basket weaving is so much fun, that this will surely be just one of many more baskets! 🙂
I made a whole set of them. 🙂
You can also use this techniques to make different shapes of baskets. If you want a more rounded basket, you need to stitch the rows together slightly off-center. This way you can direct the shape in- or outwards as you wish.
Try to use different materials. Straw works really well. You can get amazing results with raffia (buy here*), rushes or other plant fibers. Even wood wool can be worked into a rustic basket.
Have a look at our new tutorial if you want to know how to make a lid for your basket: Link >>
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[Editor’s Note: Norbert Figueroa is the third writer-in-residence to participate in the Road Warrior program, a partnership between MatadorU and the Belize Tourism Board. Norbert is spending the fall exploring Belize’s architecture and Mayan culture in anticipation of Maya 2012. Each week, he reports on his experiences for Matador, his personal blog, and for other outlets.]
“I’LL TEACH YOU HOW TO MAKE BASKET”, says Maria Ack as I enter her small wooden home in the Maya village of San Miguel, located in the Toledo District of Belize.
Maria is one of the many women who practices the art of basket weaving to conserve that important cultural aspect and to make a living by selling them to locals and visitor alike.
“Sit here”, she says, pointing to a low stool located next to a table with a few green and dry palm-tree looking leaves. As she picks one of the green leaves from the table, she says: “You see how I make basket”.
Pick the Jippi Jappa leaves
The Jippi Jappa plant looks like a hybrid between a palm tree and a small decorative plant. The Jippi Jappa palm grows wild in the rainforest and often in abandoned fields. It is also very common in Maya villages.
For a light colored basket, the leaves used are the ones that are still in the heart (still closed). For the dark baskets, the open green leaves are used.
Rip the central core of each leaf
Each big leaf is composed of many pointy smaller leaves. Those smaller leaves all have a central core that gives them their rigidity. Insert a knife through that central core to strip it out, leaving only the fiber, or the soft part of the leaf. This is done for both light and dark basket leaves.
Tie the fibers
Tie the light fibers by the ends in small groups of six to eight. The green fibers will have the leaf base holding them together, so just split them in smaller groups of six to eight fibers too.
Boil, wash, and dry the fibers
Boiling the light fibers for 10 minutes will prevent them from rotting. It also gives them their typical beige color and softens them, making them easier to bend without breaking. After cooking, wash them with soap and let them dry for two days if the weather is sunny, or more if it’s overcast.
The green fibers are not cooked; they are just left to dry for 2 ½ days.
To start weaving, first pick the desired dry fiber color (light or dark) and stretch it as if it was a rope. Form a small coil at one of its ends, insert a needle with a string, and loop around the coil to saw it in place.
The string is made out of Heniken, which is taken out of the Bromelia plant and goes through the same process as the Jippi Jappa leaves (stripping, boiling, drying). The difference is that the Heniken dries in a thinner, string-like shape. If Heniken is not available, the same Jippi Jappa leaves can be used, but cut into strips thin enough to fit into a needle head when dry.
Today they use steel needles, but in the past, Maya women used spines from trees as needles.
Repeat the weaving process
Repeat the sawing process by inserting the needle approximately every quarter inch, always pinching part of the previous layer of the coil to hold the outer layer in place.
Keep expanding the coil until you achieve the desired size of the bottom of the basket. To make the sides, or give the “basket shape”, weave the strings of the coil in a diagonal or vertical location in relation to the previous coil layer.
When the length of the fibers runs out, attach the next bundle of fibers to the end to extend the rope-like shape almost seamlessly. When desired, the colors of the fibers can be changed to create design patterns. This sawing process may take anywhere from a day for small baskets to a week for bigger baskets.
Dry the basket
Once finished, place the basket under the sun for a day to make sure it is fully dry before using.
Sew weaving strips with fabric and fusible foam, then diagonally weave them into a gorgeous basket! Join expert Carol McLeod of Aunties Two and learn how, step by step!
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Join Carol McLeod of Aunties Two as she shows you how to create one of her unique and beautiful baskets! She’ll be your guide as you learn to sew and then weave a basket using beautiful fabrics. You’ll learn tons of excellent sewing skills useful for many projects while creating a basket with various uses including holiday decorating, gift-giving and home organization! In this class, you’ll learn how to:
- Choose basket fabrics for just the right occasion.
- Make weaving strips from fabric and fusible foam.
- Use a simple turning tool.
- Cut strips on a diagonal to make the sides of the basket.
- Line the strips up for easy weaving.
- Weave strips on a diagonal.
- Create and sew a sturdy, custom-fit basket bottom.
- And make great handles that can be used on other projects.
This class includes complete step-by-step instructions and materials list for the All Around Basket.
Annie’s online classes include downloadable and printable class patterns in PDF format in addition to the online video content. You can view online classes at your convenience, 24/7, 365 days a year from any mobile device, both tablet and non-tablet (phones, iPod Touch, etc.) but classes are best viewed on tablets or computers. All Annie’s online classes and DVDs have closed captioning.
History behind weaving baskets and sea kelp
The art of weaving basketry takes years to become an expert in creating exceptional designs using different eco-friendly materials and added in colors of sinew, twine, raffia, and dying any materials that are used for basketry. Growing up I learned many skills and crafts and with that background, it’s made it easier to move up by professional artistic abilities in these areas. I thought that I would use sea kelp to weave a basket that I’d normally used with materials such as wicker, willow bark, reeds, that are much stronger and durable that make it easier to work with when weaving. I decided “why not be unique and use sea kelp.” What a difficult and long process that took me to figure out how and then to complete the project but, Oh What A Blast!
Sea kelp process:
I recommend you do to understand the reasons and difficultly I had making this project with using kelp as my material.
I had to make 7″×7″ of 14 spokes and as many pieces that fit the length around the whole basket. I estimated 4 layers of weave that I was going to make it.
If you read my last post about sea kelp and how the history of it is then you can understand about this first step in trying to make the materials as flat strips of kelp to weave as if it was wicker or any other materials normally used. Now I understand why kelp has never been used and isn’t really the right type of material used at all!
How to make the strips for weaving:
Kelp structure makes it hard to work with because even after you cut the piece to lay it out and stitch any amount of pieces together it rolls back up into its natural form. Here is the problem I had to figure out “how will I make them stay flat before starting to weave?”
Soak the kelp to make it pliable to cut strips long enough to start the square bottom of the 7″×7″ spokes.
How to make them flat and stay that way. I had to try my hardest to lay them down on a piece of wood and pile on heavy pieces of wood as they were trying to curl back up.
After the second step I repeated it several times to manipulate it to change the way it normally is without anyway of the way I make my sea kelp baskets. To read more about it.
Each piece of sea kelp is different in many ways again read the first post for details of what that entails. I soaked them for about 5 to 10 minutes before starting to do the first step in making the bottom.
Starting to weave:
I layer out 7 spokes and weaved in 7 spokes tightly putting them as I weaved them in the middle forming a square like look.
Now it was the difficult start that continued to get harder and harder as I went through each step. To weave in the first strip that was the length of the entire basket I started on the right corner and weaved it until the end that stopped before the beginning of the weave. Here’s why it was difficult! The kelp wasn’t the type to be strong enough to stay up as I weaved. Seen below:
Next, after you weave enough to finish the height you want to start to take the sides that are loose and tuck then under the next weaved until every piece is weave is tucked under nicely. This was hard to completion because they would slide out after I did one layer.
Finally, you take the top weaves that are going towards the basket which is every other one and tuck it into the inside loop of the weave. Next, do the rest of the ones left but opposite way. Tuck it under the loop on the outside.
It was so hard to keep the weave in place and the kelp from falling down because it wasn’t sturdy enough to stay up.
The finished project after I tucked in the top pieces. I found it very difficult to do.
The view from the side of my project of weaving basketry using sea kelp.
I found that I enjoyed the challenge for my way I figured out to try it but from what I heard through the grapevines, is it has been done before and was easy to learn. That being said, I’ve not found any information or website that has been a tutorial or pictures of any. If you know of any place or where you might have seen anything close please share and comment on your thoughts.
By Brookelynn Morris
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Everything is more adorable when it is miniature. I literally said, “Squee!” out loud when I found this pin on Pinterest today. The basket is adorable, but the real magic is in the tutorial. It’s in-depth and well presented. Let the tiny basket weaving begin!
By Brookelynn Morris
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If you love the look and feel of jute as much as I do, then you are going to enjoy this DIY crafting adventure! I love upcycling things around my home that I either fell out of love with or just want to bring to life.
I knew this metal basket with woven jute would be a fun project. I’m going to show you how to easily weave a beautiful jute metal basket!
Jute is a natural fiber that can be spun and woven into a variety of textures. It is also one of the most versatile choices for any aspect of home decor. It is durable and strong, yet can be surprisingly soft to the touch (depending on the treatment and tightness of the weave).
I started with an old metal basket I had and simply knotted one end of the jute and started weaving.
This project is so super easy – all you do is weave the jute around the metal basket. You don’t need glue to hold the pieces together. All you do is make small knots and weave around them to hold them in place.
It’s so relaxing to work with jute too. You can take any basket you have on hand and transform it into a beautiful upcycled jute masterpiece. You can space the jute out or pull it close together – it all depends on the look you are after. There’s something so charming about a jute metal basket.
I love the results. I can’t wait to try different patterns too. Be sure to check out my other jute crafting projects too.
Let me show you some of the other projects I made with jute. I made Stunning Farmhouse Mason Jars with jute and love the way they turned out. Again, you are free to make any jute pattern you like.
I also create a Pier 1 Lamp Knock Off too. This project turned out so beautifully!
Can you tell I love jute yet? I also recently created A Stunning Braided Jute Centerpiece too and this has to be my favorite jute creation.
I was so annoyed by my medicine cabinet items falling into the sink and onto the floor that I created a way to Stop Your Medicine Cabinet Items From Falling Out with jute too. Again, you can create the faux shelving to look any way you like with a little imagination.
I love how this metal basket was transformed using jute. I hope you get to create one soon too!
The jute also helps keep my fruits and veggies from getting dents and dings on the side when they touch the basket. It’s a win-win!
Let me know if you have any questions about the process. It’s super easy and so much fun. Very therapeutic too!
The natural detail in jute is what brings these pieces to life! You can paint, dye, or stain jute too! I love how you can braid it and make detailed designs with it as well.
I love storing this jute metal basket in my beautiful pantry cabinet now. This metal basket looks beautiful compared to my other baskets.
Next time I work with jute, I’m going to try staining it.
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This basket weave braid by style master Sam Villa, Co-Founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, is the perfect accent or foundation for so many looks. “This simple two strand twist technique can easily be transformed into many different styles, and the pattern draws a lot of attention to long, medium and/or short hair,” Villa says. “Basket weaves are all about rhythm, get your rhythm down and your sections will be uniform and your confidence will soar.”
The Basics: Take a section, slice into 2, twist away from face, take a section from top surface, drop in between, twist away, continue rhythm and secure end with elastic.
- The pattern can be customized to be straight across or diagonal.
- Each row should mirror the sections of the previous row – they don’t need to be exact, but more uniform than relaxed pancaked patterns.
- It’s ideal for one-length hair, if working with layers; the pattern might have to start lower (top of ear to nape area).
- When creating patterns, minimize the time hair is loped through elastics by twisting the elastic multiple times to tighten around hair and just loop through once.
- Once the pattern is created, hair can hang naturally, be folded under or sculpted into an up do or ponytail.
Here Villa shares the details in this short and informative video:
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step 2|| weave the yarn tail under the next vertical wire to the right, then over a wire, then under a wire. Leave it as is for now.
step 3|| begin weaving your long yarn threads to the left, passing over the next wire, then under, continue repeating the over-under pattern with each vertical wire until you reach your starting knot.
step 4|| as you weave up to your starting knot, you should be weaving at a pattern opposite from what your end yarn is woven. So for example if your end piece from the knot was woven under-over-under then your long thread should pass above it at the pattern of over-under-over. If your pattern is opposite, then continue to step 5.
If you get to this point and your pattern is not opposite, then you probably have a wire basket with an uneven number of vertical wires. If that is the case, then unweave your long thread all the way to the last corner. So you’re one corner away from the knotted starting corner, we’ll call this panel 4. Now start weaving this last panel 4 with the same pass as what you finished panel 3. So if panel 3 ended with an over the wire, then start panel 4 with an over the wire. This will be a break in the over-under pattern, but we’ll hide it at the corner.
step 6|| with your end tail secure, continue weaving your long threads following the over-under pattern.
Done! Now you have a cozy wire basket to store many things…like more yarn, haha.
Do you have a wire basket at home that you’re going to try this on? Maybe you have had one for years, that this could breathe new life into?
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This section is from the book “Use Of Native Craft Materials”, by Margaret Eberhardt Shanklin. Also available from Amazon: Use Of Native Craft Materials.
A basket woven of cattail leaves may be used as a container for gift cookies and candies. Start weaving as one would weave strips of paper into a flat mat. Add weavers until the bottom of the basket is the desired size. Turn the leaves up and with another strip weave under and over the vertical spokes of the basket. Bend the ends back and weave them into the sides for finishing the edge. A lid may be made in the same way. Select wider leaves, so that the top will slip over the lower part of the basket. Practice with strips of paper before weaving with cattails. The basket should be kept damp while working.
PLATE XX. Mexican horse and rider.
PLATE XXI. Scrape the pitch from the split rush with a paring knife.
How To Make A Twined Basket
Unlike the coil method in twined weaving, the warp splints are enclosed by the crossed twining of two or more weft strands.
Fgure 9. Tie the warp splints with string.
Figure 10. Cross wefts 1 and 2 around each warp splint.
For the warp splints, take a number of the split or whole rushes which have been flattened and crisscross them to form a star or the radii of a wheel. See Figure 9. To make the center secure, tie with a piece of thread. Dampen the rush.
The weft strands should be of the split and scraped rush. They may be of contrasting colors. Cross the wefts and hold them in place at the center of the warp with the left hand. Bring the back weft to the front of the warp and the front weft to the back of the same warp spoke. Press them together firmly. Continue to weave in this manner around the spokes of the warp. On the second row, insert another warp so that there will be an uneven number of warp ends. Weave under and over the warp until the bottom of the basket is formed. See Figure 10 for details of this weave. It may be necessary to add more spokes as the base increases in diameter. For the side walls of the basket, turn the spokes up and continue to weave. As a variation, the rows may be left more open.
Figure 11. Cross weft 1 over each warp and around weft 2.
Figure 12. A single weft may be added.
Another weave is to use the two weft strands but twine one over the warp and the weft all of the time rather than alternating the two weft strands. A single weft may be woven under and over the warp between the rows for variety. Details for these methods are shown in Figures 11 and 12. In Figure 11, two warp strands are skipped.
Figure 13. Braid wefts 1, 2, and 3 around the warp.
A braided effect is attained by using three weft strands. Each strand passes over two warp strands and under one on the inside. When it is finished, it gives a twined or rope appearance on the outside. It makes a heavier basket. Figure 13 gives the details of the braided weave.
There are two ways of disposing of the warp at the border of the basket. One is to cut the warp strands off and the other is to fold them down into the inside and bind them with the weft. The latter method makes a stronger weave.
Figure 14. The warp is bent over at the top of the basket.
As each splint is bent over, it becomes a third strand combined with two weft strands, and the braided weave is used to finish the edge. See Figures 14 and 15 for the inside and outside details of folding the warp ends.
Figure 15. Cut the warp on the inside of the basket.
When the basket is finished, allow it to dry slowly. It is not necessary to apply varnish or shellac to preserve the rush.
Purses, bread trays, sewing baskets, and market baskets are a few of the articles that could be made using the twined basket technique. Patterns in contrasting colors may be added for decoration. Use an all-purpose commercial dye for the rushes.
Here is a great detailed tutorial on how to weave basket from rattan, if it is not easy to get rattan locally, you can use newspaper tube instead. The following is a video tutorial on newspaper tube weaving, which starts from sticking paper tubes to cardboard.
Materials you may need:
- Cardboard as bottom
- Rattan or Newspaper tubes
Gallery: English ivy basket weaving
Talk about making sweet lemonade out of sour lemons. Only this is better. Peter Bauer of Rewild Portland teaches classes on weaving baskets out of vines of invasive English ivy.
His motto: Weave a basket, save a forest.
“We really need to interact with invasive species if we want to control them,” says Bauer, who also shows people how to make baskets out of Himalayan blackberry and Scotch broom, two other plants on the Portland Bureau of Environmental Services’ hit list.
Fast-growing, tree-smothering English ivy (Hedera helix) evokes the harshest response “It’s suffocating the life out of Forest Park as we speak and is the bane of every conservationist in the Northwest,” says Bauer.
Volunteers, members of the No Ivy League and city employees are on a mission to wipe out this “terrible, evil, useless plant,” as Bauer describes it.
But the environmental educator hopes to change attitudes: “Perhaps people will stop putting their hate into a plant and learn to respect it for the gifts that it has to offer us,” he says.
Through Rewild Portland’s earth-based arts and crafts classes, he shows people of all ages how to harvest and process weeds, and guides them on weaving styles. English ivy makes nice twined, plaited or ribbed baskets.
“My dream is for everyone in Portland to weave a grocery basket out of invasive species” to reduce paper, plastic and ivy, he says.
In addition to his Rewild Portland classes, Bauer partners with schools, conservation clubs and private groups to teach about ways to eradicate invasive weeds and make functional baskets and fanny packs out of the vines.
Upcoming Saturday group classes ($55, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Washington Park) include using English ivy to make a ribbed bike basket on April 2 and coiled basket on May 7.
Bauer will also teach a four-day Basketry 101 course, ($200, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sundays, May 1, 8, 15 and 22) at Washington Park, which includes instructions to make twined, coiled, plaited and ribbed baskets, as well as an understanding of the three universal styles of weaving, the history of basketry, basketry vocabulary and basketry resources.
Bauer will teach a workshop ($75) on an English ivy-made horn of plenty table decoration October 1-2 at Washington Park and the St. Johns neighborhood.
For a more up to date version of this article click HERE
(Over the years my basketry skill has improved and I now share my new skills, experiences and better weaving techniques in my latest basketry article, However this page may still hold a lot of interest due to selection and preparation of Brambles as a main basketry material.)
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Weaving a basic basket
If you are using Willow or Brambles then you need to dry them. (Failing to dry them will result in the weaving material shrinking and the basket will become loose and poor quality.) You can tell when they are becoming dry because they feel lighter and the bark goes wrinkly. There are only certain types of Willow that are good for weaving and they need to be collected in the winter if possible, when the sap levels are low and the shoots are free of leaves. Once you have your materials you will need to soak them in water to make them more flexible. Willow may take longer to soak and become supple, it could take several days.
You may be wondering how to remove all those bramble thorns and make the stems comfortable to weave. when I first collected brambles I ruined a good pair of leather gloves, I have found that it is best to wear leather gloves but also hold a piece of canvas or tough material over the top. Hold onto the growing tip of each bramble, run your other hand (protected by leather and fabric) all the way down the stem, then cut it off at the base. This should roughly take off all the thorns and leaves but the stems will still be very rough. Leave your brambles to dry fully and then pull them through some sand paper held in your clenched hand, this will make the stems very nice and smooth and not a problem to work with.
To make things easier to understand I have highlighted the new weavers with a red outline.
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Materials and Tools:
12-gauge copper wire
16-gauge copper wire
24-gauge copper wire
round nose pliers
needle nose pliers
nylon jaw straightening pliers
liver of sulfur
container of hot water
fine steel wool
polymer clay, variety of colors
toaster oven or conventional oven
1. Wrap 12-gauge copper wire loosely around round nose pliers to form three loops for the basket rim’s embellishment. Wrap the wire into the rough size and shape for the basket rim. Add about three inches to the length to form a second embellishment described in step 2. Make a cut with flush cutters.
2. Form a small loop around the tip of the round nose pliers for the second embellishment on the other end of the rim, then turn the wire around and create a second larger loop facing in the opposite direction. Turn the wire again and make a third loop, again working in the opposite direction from the loop formed before it.
3. Wrap the two ends of the rim wire around each other once. Tip: This is similar to the first wrap you make when tying shoelaces.
4. Add 16-gauge copper wire spokes to provide structure to the basket. Make sure the wire is flush cut at the end and wrap the end of the 16-gauge wire around the rim with your hands and fingers. Work from a coil of wire so you don’t have to estimate the amount of wire needed.
5. Bend 16-gauge wire so that it roughly forms the size and shape of spokes needed. Flush cut it approximately two inches longer (tail) than the size of the spoke.
6. Wrap the two-inch tail of 16-gauge wire around the rim opposite the first wrap. Flush cut any remaining wire if the tail is longer than needed. Repeat steps 6 and 7 with a second piece of wire running perpendicular to the first. This gives you two wire spokes that cross each other at the bottom of the wire basket.
7. Cut 24-gauge copper wire into about three-foot lengths to form the basket’s mesh. Wrap the end of the wire around the rim of the basket. Wrap the coils tightly and neatly against each other.
8. Pull the wire to the bottom of the basket and make a few loops around the bottom so that it is firmly attached.
9. Pull more wire back to the rim on the opposite side of the first piece of wire you attached, and wrap more loops to secure it. Repeat until you have wire mesh covering the whole basket. When wrapping wire over the rim or spokes, make three or four loops, but when wrapping wire around another piece of wire between the spokes, loop it once so it has a more delicate appearance. Manipulate the wire with your fingers to shape the mesh basket.
10. If you run out of wire, but aren’t finished with the basket, follow these steps:
- Loop the wire’s end around the rim or spoke (such as when creating the mesh) and flush cut the end. Make the cut on the inside of the basket so it isn’t visible.
- Cut a new piece of wire. Start by looping around the rim or spokes (refer to step 8) and continue working until you have a fine mesh. End by looping the end of the last wire around the rim or a spoke and flush cutting the end.
11. Counteract any wobbles in your basket by pressing it gently, but firmly onto a flat surface. Rock it back and forth, shaping as you go, until it sits firmly and has a pleasing shape. Manipulate the embellishments at the ends of the rim until you achieve the desired appearance.
12. Oxidize the basket outdoors to avoid fumes.
- Place a pea-size grain of liver of sulfur in a small container to oxidize.
- Add hot water and immerse the basket in the solution. If the water is very hot, it will only take a few moments to blacken.
13. Wearing gloves, buff with fine steel wool.
14. Polish to a fine shine with a soft cloth.
15. Reshape the basket with your fingers if it becomes misshapen during polishing.
Make the Disk Beads
1. Blend polymer clay to create the desired bead color. Run the mixture through a pasta machine.
2. Pull off pea-size pieces of clay, roll into ball and pinch into disk shapes.
3. Poke holes in the center of the beads with a needle tool.
4. Wear a dust mask before brushing metallic powders onto beads.
5. Bake 15 minutes in a 265-degree oven and let cool.
Assemble the Bead Dangles
1. Thread polymer clay beads onto head pins.
2. Make a loop with round nose pliers just above the beads.
3. Thread the loop through the basket rim.
4. Wrap the tail of wire between the loop and beads. Clip any leftover wire.
When you feel like you’re becoming a basket case, do some basket weave! If you’re stressed out and need to find something cheap, easy and relaxing to do, crochet yourself a nice basket weave afghan. The steady reliable rhythm of the pattern will calm you down and keep you from becoming a basket case. You don’t have to make a big afghan if you don’t want to. You can make yourself a nice set of place mats or whatever else you can dream up.
Why basket weave stitch?
The basket weave pattern is the most fun using my favorite stitch, double crochet. It creates a nice cozy solid fabric that’s great for afghans if you live in a cold climate. That’s how I got hooked on basket weave crochet. I needed an afghan that was pretty, fun to make and didn’t have a lot of holes or spaces for heat to escape. My basket weave afghan got so much use that I wore it out. I no longer have it, but I sure got a lot of use out of it!
These how-to instructions are for double crochet basket weave. If you don’t know how to double crochet, you can learn here. If you already know how to double crochet, you’re halfway to basket weaving! It’s that simple!
Let’s get started!
To learn the pattern, we’ll start with chain(ch) 24.
Skip the first 3 chains and double crochet in each remaining chain. Chain 3, turn.
A row of double crochet
Next, we will skip the first stitch and double crochet around the front post of the next stitch (front post double crochet (fpdc)). This sounds complicated, but once you do it, it will make sense. Instead of working in the top of the stitch, insert your hook behind the stitch horizontally from right to left. It’s like you’re weaving your hook between the stitches.
Insert your hook behind the stitch then back out in front of the row.
Now yarn over hook like an ordinary double crochet stitch.
Yarn over hook
Pull the yarn back under and out from under the stitch.
Hook and yarn are pulled back through the stitch.
Now yarn over and work off the loops 2 at a time like an ordinary double crochet.
You’ve now made one front post double crochet!
Now, repeat that 2 more times!
3 front post double crochet stitches made.
Next, we’ll make 3 back post double crochets (bpdc). Instead of your work facing you, hold your work so you can see the back side of it. Insert your hook behind the next stitch and push it back out. This is exactly like the front post double crochet stitches you just made only working from the other side of your work.
Beginning a back post double crochet stitch
Yarn over hook like an ordinary double crochet stitch.
Yarn over hook.
Now pull the hook and yarn back out from under the post of the stitch.
3 loops on hook
Yarn over hook and work the loops off the hook 2 at a time like an ordinary double crochet stitch.
One back post double crochet made.
You’ve made one back post double crochet stitch!
Now make 2 more in the next 2 stitches.
3 front post double crochets and 3 back post double crochets
Now, continue 3 fpdc, then 3 bpdc until the end of your row. Double crochet in the last stitch. Ch 3, turn.
A row of basket weave
For the next row, skip the first stitch and front double crochet in the next 2 stitches. Then continue the 3 bpdc, 3 fpdc pattern until the end of the row and double crochet in the last stitch. The goal is to alternate the stitch pattern, so you’re creating the basket weave look. See below:
A section of basket weave stitches
You can make longer weaves by working 2 rows of the same stitch. You could also use treble crochet or double treble crochet to make your basket weave stitches.
Here’s a fun patch of basket weave:
Have fun with your basket weave stitches! Once you get into the rhythm the last thing you’ll feel like is a basket case!
Knit the Basketweave Stitch
The technique of forming a basketweave texture in your knitting is easy, even though it looks complex. This stitch comes in many variations and once you learn a basic basketweave stitch, you can try others or even design your own.
This stitch is perfect for beginners because it only uses simple knit and purl stitches. By alternating between these two stitches, you form areas of stockinette stitch with reverse stockinette “woven” in and out. The result is a knitted material that resembles a woven basket. And because basketweaving produces many textures, your knitting can do the same.
Start with a simple, easy-repeat basketweave stitch as you begin to understand the process. Pay attention to how the front and back of both the knit and purl stitches interact to make the sides and textures that “weave.” Next, try a version that’s very different so you see a stronger contrast. From there, make a few more swatches with variations from patterns or your own planning.
There’s really no end to the options with basketweave stitch. It’s great for hats, scarves, blankets, and more!
This article was originally written by Sarah E. White and updated by Mollie Johanson.
Basic Basketweave Stitch
A Simple, Reversible Basketweave
This version makes a fairly small scale “weave”, but you can adjust the size by increasing the multiple for cast-on and stitch and row repeats. For example, you could start with a multiple of 8, then knit and purl 8, and work 8 rows before reversing the pattern. Play with it!
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches, but with it multiplying by an even number. For example, 4×8, 4×10, etc.
Rows 1-4: *K4, P4, repeat from * across
Rows 5-8: *P4, K4, repeat from * across
Repeat the 8 rows to form the pattern.
A Nearly Reversible Basketweave
If you want or need to add or subtract one multiple of 4 stitches from the version above, the idea is still similar. Instead of working the same row four times, the pattern changes each row.
Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches, but with it multiplying by an odd number. For example, 4×7, 4×9, etc.
Row 1: *K4, P4, repeat from * across, ending with K4.
Row 2: *P4, K4, repeat from * across, ending with P4.
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Rows 4-5: Repeat row 2.
Row 6: Repeat row 1.
Row 7: Repeat row 2.
Row 8: Repeat row 1.
Repeat the 8 rows to form the pattern.
A Basketweave Stitch Variation
This version of basketweave shows more of the reverse side of stockinette, with small strips of the knit side “woven” through.
Cast on a multiple of 8 stitches.
Row 1: *P6, K2, repeat from * across.
Row 2: *P2, K6, repeat from * across.
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: P2, *K2, P6, repeat from * across, ending with P4.
Row 6: K4, *P2, K6, repeat from * across, ending with K2.
Row 7: Repeat row 5.
Row 8: Repeat row 6.
Repeat the 8 rows to form the pattern.
Double Basketweave Stitch
Of these three variations, double basketweave stitch looks and is the most complicated. Sometimes called double basket rib stitch, this version has more rows in the pattern with more changes between knit and purl stitches to keep track of. But it’s still just knit and purl. The result is a highly textured stitch pattern that has a bit of a wave to it. Add a wide border to even the edges if you like.
Cast on a multiple of 18 + 10 stitches.
Row 1 (right side): *K11, P2, K2, P2, K1, repeat from * across, ending with K10.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, K8, P1, *P1, (K2, P2) 2 times, K8, P1, repeat from * across.
Row 3: *K1, P8, (K2, P2) 2 times, K1, repeat from * across, ending with K1, P8, K1.
Row 4: P10, *P1, K2, P2, K2, P11, repeat from * across.
Rows 5-8: Repeat rows 1-4.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: (P2, K2) 2 times, P2, *P10, (K2, P2) 2 times, repeat from * across.
Row 11: *(K2, P2) 2 times, K2, P8, repeat from * across, ending with (K2, P2) 2 times, K2.
Row 12: (P2, K2) 2 times, P2, *K8, (P2, K2) 2 times, P2, repeat from * across.
Row 13: *(K2, P2) 2 times, K10, repeat from * across, ending with (K2, P2) 2 times, K2.
Rows 14-17: Repeat rows 10-13.
Row 18: Purl.
Repeat the 18 rows to form the pattern.
Using Basketweave Stitch
A basic basketweave stitch, worked as written above or adjusted for scale, makes a great afghan or scarf. You can make these projects any size you want and repeat the pattern as long as you like.
Want a cowl or something else that you work in the round? Basic reversible basketweave works for that too! And with a few adjustments, most variations work for this too.
When you’re ready for your first (or 50th!) basketweave project, try making something like a Southampton book bag or a basketweave knit coffee cuff.